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Switching ABS systems


Curlybandit

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I now know that I can change my 1991 Regal's ABS braking system in the 3.8L to a non-ABS system with a little work. Thanks for all the help. But has anyone ever heard of upgrading the ABS system to a newer, less problematic system, just like you can upgrade the rear brakes? I figure I'd like to keep the ABS, so why not try to upgrade to a better system. Thanks for the help.

 

Curlybandit

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If you dont want ABS then thats pretty easy. Pull the fuse.

He has the power master III. And if you pull the abs fuse with that you can say bye bye to power brakes also.

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After pulling the fuse you get diminishing brakes, 10 to 13 minutes...then kiss your butt goodbye or plug the fuse back in. I played fuse games for 12 days last winter. I mastered pulling and replacing the fuse while driving. In my case the motor would keep running if the fuse wasn't pulled. The pressure switch was OOC.

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I also had a problem with my abs . the light stayed on, and I had bad brakes , I took the light bulb out and now it works pretty good. No moore light in my eyes ,Brakes are fairly good for hyway and city driving , but I can not lock the brakes except if it's wet. It has just about the feel of normal power brakes.

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Yes, you can change to the newer ABS system.

It will be more complicated since you will also need to transplant the newer ABS wire harness and ABS computer which are located in a different place than the original ABS computer.

You can reuse your wheel sensors though.

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Has anyone actually done an upgrade to the new system? That is one of the main reasons I stay clear of TGPs and STEs is because I despise the Teves Powermaster III crapola. Those things are never working right, rediculously expensive to replace, dangerous to work on, you name it. The newer systems are better because they are passive and don't do anything when they aren't needed. GM's ABS systems have gotten way better. My two 96's have great brakes and ABS, even with rear drums. The 03 S-10 is a little too eager to engage sometimes, but that could be because the truck is bouncy over bumps etc, because newer GM cars I have driven don't behave that way.

 

One of the other members on this board, hyeboy has two STE AWDs and two TGPs. My LORD people. He owns FOUR cars, all with the craptastic Powermaster ABS. That's suicide if I've ever seen it. We were driving around in his TSTE and the ABS light was on (surprise!) but that wasn't the worst part. The DIC was beeping, oh...I dunno, about EVERY 5 seconds!!? CK. ABS <beeeep!> CK. ABS <beeeep!> CK. ABS <beeeep!>

CK. ABS <beeeep!>

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What about removing the ABS unit entirely and using a regular master cylinder? My ABS light has been on for ages and when it did work the ABS hardly if ever kicked in and when it did it would cause me more problems than it would help.

 

Would it be possible to just swap the master cylinder out with a NON-ABS one and pull all that junk out of there. Then just pull out the ABS light bulb on the dash.

 

It would give me more room for some other things too. :D

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  • 4 weeks later...

It is possible. From what I have read in this forum, and from what my mechanic has told me, you can convert the system. It's actually an option that I am SERIOUSLY considering right now. I'm just waiting to find out some more detail about my code 62 from this specialist guy. Hopefully I won't need to do more than mess with my Accumulator, but if he says change the systmem, that's what I'm going to do. The "Powerbastard III" ABS system is not worth the headache, or the cost. If I do convert the system, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

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