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Cold start miss/stall


supreme_style21

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'94 GP 3100.

When the car is started cold (say.. after sitting over night, or while I'm working) it'll miss, sometimes quite heavily, when I first take off. Lasts for the first 2-3 minutes of driving. After that point, all is fine and dandy. I've just ignored it.

 

But, occassionally, and more frequently, it'll just die when I come to a stop. No sputtering.. no jerking. Dead. Like I turned the key off. I assume both to be related, as either symptom happens right after a cold start.

 

Plugs are 40,000 mi old. All still clean and properly gapped. Wires are in seemingly fine shape. No arc or anything abnormal with them. Ignition module is fairly new. Fuel filter is running around 40,000 and could be replaced I guess. Coils are original with 97,000 on 'em. I am/was leaning towards them, but don't they (usually) start causing problems once they get hot?

 

Point me in the right direction. I was ignoring the problem, but now its getting worse and needs to be fixed.

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I want to know what is wrong also. I have a 3100 also and it just started misfiring today for no reason. this is the only time it ever have done this but i'm yet to drive the car on the road for more then 1/4 mile today because of it doing so.

 

people post up.

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Well, your problem is going to be tough to find beings that is intermittent.

 

Do you have any engine lights on?

 

Do the following when it acts up....

 

-Check for spark, either get a dummy spark plug or just use a spare one.

 

-Check for fuel pressure....this requires a gauge on the end of the fuel rail.

 

If nothing shows up there......its pry your injectors being dumb. I haven't really come up with a good way to check to make sure injectors are being told to fire and that they are opening.

 

I guess you could put a pressure gauge on the rail, turn the fuel pump on (by cycling the key to on)......then pull the fuel pump relay.....and then crank the motor looking for a drop in pressure. TH eonly problem is that you aren't isolating the injectors......so if you only have one or two acting up, you pry aren't going to see that in the pressure drop on the gauge.

 

Can OBD-I cars tell which cylinder is missing like OBD-II can?

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mine did that ... until i replaced the entire coil/icm, wires, and plugs.

 

i'm not much help but YOU HAVE TODO IT SOMETIME IN LIFE

 

but then i was looking for the easy way out ... that an i needed a tune up obviously :lol:

 

just start by taking shit in to get tested shesh ...

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I'm not looking for an easy way out. I'm just looking for the cheapest way out. My checkbook doesn't like it if I have to start throwing parts at the car for shits and giggles.

 

But since I've brought the problem to the attention of others, it has not appeared since. :roll:

 

From experience, if a problem surfaces, I threaten the car with a permanent visit to the junkyard and the problem disappears.

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i have heard of the problem were coolant will drop onto the crank sensor and short it out causing a stall i dont know if that is the LQ1, 3.1, or 3100s problem? any mods wanna back this up?

 

theory.. little or no basis of fact or credibility

simple explination for all symptoms

cold start coolent or moisture is on the sensor when the motor turns over it shakes or wips the sensor clean enough to work causing a cold start, after warming up moisture is gone and work fine BUT you are still dripping coolant on it. So your in motion the coolant hits it and rolls off of it due to motion and dosnt effect the performance but when you stop the coolant under preasure leaks and get enough on the sensor to short it out killing the car. same proceadure starting up, turning it over may or may not start the motor..

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