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getting a code 44


GrandPrix34

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This indicates a "lean" fuel measurement, but what could that be attributed to? A bad o2 sensor? My a/f meter starts going bezerk like running between lean and ideal backand forth so fast that it looks like all the LED's in between are lit at the same time...then it calms down and goes back to normal reading...what do you guys think this could be?

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how can i test injectors? I know i can OHM test them...what should the reading be at? I have the front 3 at 13 ohms so I don't think that is where they should be...

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Copied this from another link could help:

 

This is the description of a Code 44 as set on GM products It is an indication of a lean mixture as indicated by the oxygen sensor readings.

 

Circuit description: The ECM supplies a voltage of about .45 volts between the appropriate terminals of the sensor. (If measured with a ten megohm DVM, this may read as low as .32 volt). The O2 sensor varies the voltage within a range of about one volt, if the exhaust is rich, down thru about .10 volt, if exhaust is lean.

 

The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage, when it is below about 360 degrees C, 600 degreeF. An open sensor circuit, or a cold sensor, causes Open Loop operation.

 

Test description:

 

1.) Code 44 is set when the O2 sensor signal voltage remains below .3 volts for 50 seconds or more and the system is operating in "closed loop".

 

Diagnostic aides:

 

The code 44 for lean exhaust is most likely caused by one or more of the following:

 

1.) O2 sensor wire - Sensor pigtail may be mispositioned and contacting the exhaust manifold.

 

2.) Check for an intermittent ground wire between connector and sensor.

 

3.) Poor ECM to engine block ground.

 

4.) MAF Sensor - A MAF sensor that causes the ECM to sense a lower than normal airflow will cause the system to go lean. Disconnect the MAF sensor. If the lean condition is gone then replace the MAF sensor.

 

5.) Vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition and/or possibly a high idle. Check for cracked hoses a bad gasket or a faulty EGR or PCV Valve.

 

6.) fuel pressure - system will go lean, if pressure is too low. It may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure while driving the car at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm.

 

7.) Clogged injector or lean injector - perform an injector balance test..

 

Testing a fuel injector:

 

To test injectors remove one from it's whole and cover the whole with a rubber stopper (chemistry labs are good sources).

 

Stick the injector in a beaker (chemistry labs are good sources).

 

Fire up the engine and watch the spray pattern.

 

Shut it down.

 

If you find an injector not "pulling it's weight", don't commit it to the grave yard just yet. Disconnect it from the fuel line. Put fuel line in beaker and push down (or pull up depending on engine) the air flow plate and hold, letting a few tablespoons of fuel run out.

 

Let go of plate.

 

Turn injector upside down a shake it (like you would shake a thermometer) vigorously over a clean white sheet. If you see a bunch of brown stains, your injectors might just have a bunch of crap accumulated inside that Techron can't take care of. Take GUMOUT an jam that little red tube into the injector and spray some into it. It's a tight fit so some pressure will back up (wear goggles). Shake the injector out again. Do this a few times.

 

Reconnect to fuel line and check spray pattern again.

 

If the injector srpay patten is better, the injector was clogged and this might save you a few bucks at $25 for a new one.

 

 

 

 

 

test,

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From what I understand, alot of people mistake the entire bank's OHM reading to the individual injector reading.

 

So, many peeps see 9 or 13 or 16 OHMS and think a single injector is responsible for it.

However thats not true.

 

If you have bank reading 13 OHMS, this would mean each injector (on that bank) should read 4.3 OHMS.

This would be normal.

 

Hope that helps,

 

test,

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