dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I am putting a new passenger side halfshaft in my STE and I almost have the halfshaft out. The ball joint is still together and the tie-rod won't come off the control arm, but other than that everything else is removed. Is there something special I have to do to get the tie rod off or something? I took the cotter pin and castle nut off, but it won't come out of the control arm. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks, Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegeta Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 You have to remove it? I never do, I just turn the wheel all the way to one side and get the 2 hub bolts out, then repeat for the other side. Then I slide the shaft through the hub space with the hub attached (but the nut loosened obviously). If you really need to pull the tie rod off, get a 2 jaw puller and press it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 Hub bolts??? I guess I'm not sure what you're talking about. Let me take another look and see if I can figure it out. Wouldn't I still need to seperate the ball joint though? Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I took the 4 bolts out of the hub and the hub won't move. Its still very solid. Do I need to pull it off with the puller, or do I have to take out more bolts or what? Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 No puller is nessary. I would tap the hub with a hammer to break the rust loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 yes a hammer is your friend. if u still wnat the tie rod out and u don't have a puller wedge a prybar under it and push up hard while banging on the knuckle with the hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 if you are just replacing an axle than there is no need to do anything to the tierod. - remove the big 36mm axle nut and washer (doh) - then remove the 18mm nut and cotter pin from the lower ball joint - unbolt the sway bar from the lower control arm - then use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate the knuckle from the lower control arm. if you're careful enough you won't rip the ball joint boot. - then pull the whole strut/knuckle assembly outward while turning it so there is enough room for the axle to pull out of the hub. use your thumbs to push the end of the axle thru the hub....then lay the axle on the lower control arm while the strut/knuckle assembly is pulled out of the way. - use a slide hammer to pull the other end of the axle out of the transmission. i gave up on my slide hammer and now i just smack the inner CV joint housing out of the transmission with a 12" long 1/2" drive extension and a BFH. no need to do anything with the tierods, just leave 'em alone i would replace the axle seals while you're at it. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 if you are just replacing an axle than there is no need to do anything to the tierod. - remove the big 36mm axle nut and washer (doh) - then remove the 18mm nut and cotter pin from the lower ball joint - unbolt the sway bar from the lower control arm - then use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate the knuckle from the lower control arm. if you're careful enough you won't rip the ball joint boot. - then pull the whole strut/knuckle assembly outward while turning it so there is enough room for the axle to pull out of the hub. use your thumbs to push the end of the axle thru the hub....then lay the axle on the lower control arm while the strut/knuckle assembly is pulled out of the way. - use a slide hammer to pull the other end of the axle out of the transmission. i gave up on my slide hammer and now i just smack the inner CV joint housing out of the transmission with a 12" long 1/2" drive extension and a BFH. no need to do anything with the tierods, just leave 'em alone i would replace the axle seals while you're at it. good luck. Thats basically exactly how I was planning on doing things. We have put 3 differentials in my dads GTP (requiring to remove the axle and then some) so I figured it would be easy. The control arm won't move. I can't get it to pry away from the ball joint. I have the sway bar unbolted from it and everything, but the control arm barely moves at all even with my 3' long pry bar. I was planning on seperating it exactly like you said and turning it sideways (toward the rear of the car since its the passenger side) and then pulling the halfshaft out by tagging it with a screwdriver and hammer. But I can't get ANYTHING to come apart. I tried to take the hub off and do it Bens way, which seemed like a great idea, but the hub won't come off. I took out all the bolts, beat on it for 20 minutes with a hammer, soaked it in PB blaster and tried again and it still wouldn't come off. It should be a simple job, but its getting rediculous. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I took the 4 bolts out of the hub and the hub won't move. Its still very solid. Do I need to pull it off with the puller, or do I have to take out more bolts or what? Shawn i would leave the hub/wheel bearing assembly alone unless you're replacing them. you can pull the axle with the hub/wheel bearing assembly attatched to the end of the axle, and then pull it ALL straight out of the strut/knuckle assembly....BUT you'll still need to seperate the lower ball joint so you can swing the strut/knuckle assembly out of the way... you'll need the extra room so the other end of the axle has enough room to pull fully out of the transmission. important note: if you do pull the axle out with the hub/wheel bearing still attatched, MAKE SURE you remove the 36mm axle nut BEFORE you pull the axle out of the transmission or you'll never get it off! been there done that...i had to reinstall the axle just to get that 36mm nut off that was a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 The control arm won't move. I can't get it to pry away from the ball joint. I have the sway bar unbolted from it and everything, but the control arm barely moves at all even with my 3' long pry bar. use a pickle fork and a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer lol). it takes a few good hard swings but it will pop loose...be careful when doing this so you don't rip the boot up too much. after that you can easily pivot the lower control arm downward provided that you already removed the sway bar bolts. I tried to take the hub off and do it Bens way, which seemed like a great idea, but the hub won't come off. Shawn push the axle fully thru the hub first and then it should come right off. of course, you'll need to seperate the ball joint and pull the strut/knuckle assembly outward first in order to do that. that is why i would leave the hub/wheel bearing assembly in place...there is just no need to remove it when all you're doing is replacing an axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 would leave the hub/wheel bearing assembly alone unless you're replacing them. you can pull the axle with the hub/wheel bearing assembly attatched to the end of the axle, and then pull it ALL straight out of the strut/knuckle assembly....BUT you'll still need to seperate the lower ball joint so you can swing the strut/knuckle assembly out of the way... you'll need the extra room so the other end of the axle has enough room to pull fully out of the transmission. I guess I'll try som more to get the ball joint seperated, but nothing moves at all, it feels like there is something other than the ball joint holding the lower control arm, because it doesn't move at all, and even with the ball joint connected it should move slightly. I guess I will see what I can do. important note: if you do pull the axle out with the hub/wheel bearing still attatched, MAKE SURE you remove the 36mm axle nut BEFORE you pull the axle out of the transmission or you'll never get it off! been there done that...i had to reinstall the axle just to get that 36mm nut off that was a PITA. Oh I know. That was the first thing I removed besides the wheel. I made sure I wouldn't forget that. And the impact wrench made that very easy. Thats whats nice about using your dads tools. use a pickle fork and a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer lol). it takes a few good hard swings but it will pop loose...be careful when doing this so you don't rip the boot up too much. after that you can easily pivot the lower control arm downward provided that you already removed the sway bar bolts. I'll try that and see if I can get it off and let you know I guess. I knew a BFH was a big fucking hammer, but thanks for explaining that anyways. Thanks for the ehlp. I'll see what I can do. You can count on be being back here if I can't get it done. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcrow Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 You don't need to remove the balljoint, If you can get the wheelbearing/hub assembly off. Just put the jack under the balljoint(outer edge of control arm) lift it up so that the cv shaft is straight. Pull it out through the wheelbearing hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPXSS Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I dont understand why everybody is doing this the difficult way, i removed both halfshafts from my GP with the entire suspension in tact. Remove the 36mm axle nut remove the 4 hub assembly nuts from the rear of the knuckle ads Pull the hub assembly out of the knuckle and away from the axle, now pull the axle out of that hole. no removing the knuckle ball joint, no removing the tierod end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hosser Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 yeah all these expensive tools i keep hearing people shout out. all you need is a regular hammer. just dont strip the bolt. The easiest way i think, well atleast its what i do. take all the codder pins and etc etc then just uncsrew the nut until the end threads are not showing but dont take the nut all the way off. then take the hammer and nock on the nut and it will pop out. The reason i keep the nut on the bolt is so i dont hit the threads and then youll never get that off without a hacksaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 I dont understand why everybody is doing this the difficult way, i removed both halfshafts from my GP with the entire suspension in tact. Remove the 36mm axle nut remove the 4 hub assembly nuts from the rear of the knuckle ads Pull the hub assembly out of the knuckle and away from the axle, now pull the axle out of that hole. no removing the knuckle ball joint, no removing the tierod end Thats exactly what i did and after removing the ABS sensor from the hub, the hub came right off. I guess the ABS sensor has 2 pins that run through the hub, and thats what was holding the hub on. Got the hub off and the halfshaft out. Must be nobody that replied to this has ABS? It was easy with no removing of tie rod or ball joint. Thanks for the help, I shouldn't have any problems putting it back together, but you never know. If I do have a problem, I'll definately ask about it on here. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 yeah all these expensive tools i keep hearing people shout out what expensive tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 You don't need to remove the balljoint, If you can get the wheelbearing/hub assembly off. Just put the jack under the balljoint(outer edge of control arm) lift it up so that the cv shaft is straight. Pull it out through the wheelbearing hole. i've never tried it that way! i just thought that i'd never get it out of the transmission unless i got the strut/knuckle out of the way first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2004 Well, I got it all put back together. The halfshaft is in, I bolted the ball joint and tie rod back in with the castle nuts and got some new cotter pins for them. Put the 4 bolts and ABS sensor back in the hub, and I put the rotor on. Then I replaced the brake caliper (thats what I was originally going to do when I pulled the wheel off the car and noticed green grease everywhere) and put on a new rotor and new pads. Now I have to wait until tommarrow (well, today actually) for someone to be up to help me out with bleeding the brakes. Then I will ATTEMPT to put a new rotor and pads on the drivers side (I have tried to put a new rotor on that side 3 or 4 times now, and was unsuccessful everytime). Then I will have all new front brakes (replaced drivers front caliper a few weeks ago). Then I'll be able to drive the car for a day or two until I start tearing the engine apart for what will probably be like a week or two. Maybe I'll get a chance to wash the car and get some pics of the maroon 5 spokes. Anyways, thanks for the help. I greatly appreciate it. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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