mlc Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Hi gang, I am looking to get a 94-95 Cutlass Convertible, which engine should I pick? the 3.1L or 3.4L? I don't care much about power and performance, I rather have an engine that is easier to work on and dependable. By the way, how does one know if the timeing belt is replaced? how many miles should you replace the timing belt on a 3.4? Any other thing I should check?other comments and opinions are welcome. the car (95 3.4L) I looked at has 88K miles on it, two owners, second owner owned it for 7 years according to CarFax Thanks Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 the 3.1 is much easier to work on, and more durable. the 3.4 guys rip on it and call it slow and shit, but it's a torquey little engine and won't have any trouble keeping up with traffic or merging on the freeway or anything like that. i believe the 3.4 timing belt should be replaced every 60K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 If you want one thats easier to work on and more dependable, go with the 3.1/3100. If you want performance, but are willing to sacrifice the easiness of working on it and dependablality(probably not even a word, hell i can't even say it, but you get my drift), get the 3.4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 If you want a more reliable engine, even though I hate 2 say it, stick with the pushrod 3.1 motor. Not as much fun to drive and no where near the top end of a 3.4, but a lot less maintenance and the 3.1 is easier 2 work on. Timing belt every 50k or so (30k if ya beat it). -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 should I pick? the 3.1L or 3.4L? I don't care much about power andperformance, I rather have an engine that is easier to work on and dependable. 3.1 hands down! Convertables are heavy and therefore wouldn't be much of a high-performer with a 3.4 anyways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlc Posted July 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Thanks for the reply, the dealer also has a 93 convertible with 99K miles on, I peek at the window, leather seat, no airbag, alloy wheel, decent shape, I'll check on the size of the engine and let you guys know.... Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 3.1s 'verts are kinda hard to find.. at least from what I see in autotrader. I know Davis on here has a 3.1 Cutty vert I'm not sure if he might be selling it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EurosportZ34 Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 I really don't know what to say to that. The 3100 is VERY dependable, but the 3.4 DOHC is more rare and hella faster. Which ever suits you best... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteOut Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Speaking as someone who owns a 95' vert with the 3.4 I'd have to say stick with the 3.4. Its not exactly fast by any means, so I can't imagine driving this car with 50 less horse power. Oh, and by getting a car with the 3.4 you also get a "stiffer" FE3 suspension, the integrated tail light spoiler, and dual exhuast. So thats something to think about as well. I think you could get a sport package on pre-95 cars equipped with the 3.1/3100 that added dual exhuast and possibly the FE3 suspension at the same time, but those cars have the twin box exhuast tips rather than the dual/dual tip look of the 3.4 cars. If you do get a 3.4 consider the following, if the car has close to 100k on it plan on doing plugs, wires, coolant flush, transmission filter/fluid change, upper/lower intake gaskets, and a timing belt. Unless of coarse those things have been done recently. Also be aware that W-Body brakes suck and you'll probably be replacing pads, rotors and a couple calipers pretty soon too. That said they're fun cars, good luck with whatever you choose and make sure to stick around and post some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Hi gang, I am looking to get a 94-95 Cutlass Convertible, which engineshould I pick? the 3.1L or 3.4L? I don't care much about power and performance, I rather have an engine that is easier to work on and dependable. By the way, how does one know if the timeing belt is replaced? how many miles should you replace the timing belt on a 3.4? Any other thing I should check?other comments and opinions are welcome. the car (95 3.4L) I looked at has 88K miles on it, two owners, second owner owned it for 7 years according to CarFax Thanks Kenny dependablitly and easier maintenance. 3100 all the way dude. join the 3100 club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 I have owned a 3.1 GP, a 3.4 Euro, a 3.4 GTP, and a 3100 Cutlass and I can say that they 3100 has a lot more zip then the 3.1 yet obviously not a much as the 3.4s .....that being said the 3100 is the best all around choice, IMHO....but if you don't mind working on your car and have the knowledge to do so I would tell you to get the 3.4.... ...FWIW: stick with the '95 'verts, the interior is a million times nicer then the 90-94s..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Since you don't care about power and performance, you want easier to work on and dependable, the answer is very clear that you want a 3.1/3100. The 3.4 in the convertible, however, makes a lot of difference. I think a 3.1/3100 convertible will feel very sluggish. A 3100 will feel worse off the line than the 3.1, but the 3100 has more mid-range power and better passing ability than the 3.1. If you care about toys, the 3.4 convertibles came with auto climate control, leather, rear bucket seats (up until 94), and available HUD (up until 94). I don't know if you could get those things on a 3.1/3100 convertible or not, but usually the 3.1/3100 convertibles are pretty basic. If you don't care about toys either, then absolutely get the 3.1/3100. The 3.4 is a money pit if you don't learn to do everything on it yourself. I only recommend it to enthusiasts and hobbyists who like working on cars. Labor cost to pay a mechanic to do anything on it is astronomical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 i wouldnt call it dependability, i would call it more maintenance-heavy. every 3.4 failure i've seen came from someone failing to do preventative maintenance. but i'd say find a 3.1 car because you don't care for being 2 seconds slower in the 1/4. that and the alternator doesnt take forever to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 when I was looking for my Cutlass my 1st serious one I test drove was a triple black '94 vert with the 3.4. I brought it over to my father-in-laws house so he could check it over since he's very mechanically inclined(I knew nothing about these motors at the time) and he told me that the car was very nice, but ragged about the DOHC. He asked me the very same question as your asking all of us about reliability vs. performance. I choose the 3100 SFI that I have in my '95 Cutlass coupe and have been happy with my decision. That being said if I was to make a decision based on what I know now about these motors (basis on the verts)I would choose the 3.4 if it had low mileage and had the correct preventative maintenance. You will have to bring someone with you that knows this motor so he/she can check her over very carefully...the 3100 is tons easier to inspect. One thing you want to eyeball is if you see oil leaking out of the intake which is common on almost every w-body after 60-80K range. Make sure you ask the salesman as many questions as you can think of and good luck with whatever you do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Even low mileage 3.4, no matter how well cared for, will cost lots of $$$ eventually. They have common problems that affect ALL engines regardless of care & feeding. The oil pump drive O-ring is guaranteed to need replaced and so is the intake manifold gasket. At 60k mile intervals, the timing belt needs replaced, and I've seen some mechanics charge 4-digit pricetags to replace it. 91-93 will need its CS-130 alternator replaced at some point, and also no small expense if hiring a mechanic to replace it. The 94-95 3.4 is probably going to be less troublesome in the alternator department with its revised CS-130D, so if someone wants to get a convertible with 3.4, a 94-95 is what I'd recommend - 94 for more toys, or 95 for updated interior, better vent placement, and passenger side airbag. I think the 3.1 actually is slightly less maintenance than the 3100's. The 3100's have intake gasket problems and also problems with the plastic valve covers they used on some of those engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlc Posted July 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 thanks for all your posts, here is more detail, I took a quick look at the car a few days ago, didn't drive it yet. Car is in good shape, normal small scratches here and there, no rust, 2 owners according to auto check (1st owner 95-97, 2nd owner 97-04), 88K miles, leather is in good shape except driver seat, right side shown some wear , the center console broke off totally. Dealer said the car needs new rear brake and they'll fix it if I decide to buy. Paint is in good condition except the rear spoiler. tires is good and wheels looks good. car started right up, runs smoothly, air works, radio works, all windows work. I notice the doom light (under the roll bar) didn't come on when I open the door. door handle is in good shape, not bent.....Top is in OK shape I guess, it has some loose seems here and there, I am pretty sure it's a original top. the rubber around the door/windows show some age and pieces broken off. I didn't check the oil, trans fluid or check oil leak under the car. the owner said they can sell me a extended warranty for $1000 to $1500 to cover an additional 45K miles. I call my mechanic and he quoted me around $450 to do the timing belt (6 hrs). what and where else should I check when I go test drive the car tomorrow? Over all it's a good looking car and idle is very smooth. Asking price $4995........comments? Thanks so much Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 not sure why, but the convt cuttys always resale for a lot more then any other w-body. IMO its to much for the car, but if you can get get them to throw in the warrenty for 45k, id do it. wouldnt worry about anything other then changing the oil and puttin gas in the car. If the t-belt breaks while ya accellerating, free motor under warrenty. -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 not sure why, but the convt cuttys always resale for a lot more then any other w-body. IMO its to much for the car, but if you can get get them to throw in the warrenty for 45k, id do it. wouldnt worry about anything other then changing the oil and puttin gas in the car. If the t-belt breaks while ya accellerating, free motor under warrenty. -Jeff :withstupid: a brand new free motor would be really cool in a old vert just don't race it too hard seeing as how its slower then a coupe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteOut Posted July 28, 2004 Report Share Posted July 28, 2004 $5000 doesn't sound too bad. The car probably books at around $6500. If its not in the best of shape I'd offer them $5500 for the warranty and the car. That would be a pretty sweet deal since you wouldn't have to worry so much about any mechanical problems. Just for your info I paid just under $5000 for my tripple white 95' convertible when I got it last summer. It had 93k miles a brand new top and was in absolutely immaculate condition. Unfortunately a month later I was doing brakes at all four corners and replacing a transmission both of which performed fine and looked fine upon my purchasing the car. That said I ended up paying around $7000 for the car and I still don't feel ripped off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcac Posted July 30, 2004 Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 Click the link for a discussion from these forums on the most likely reason why the dome light does not work. http://w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15627&highlight=&sid=fdae9f2940fb737449bc2ac92e1d298e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heza Posted July 30, 2004 Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 should I pick? the 3.1L or 3.4L? I don't care much about power andperformance, I rather have an engine that is easier to work on and dependable. 3.1 hands down! Convertables are heavy and therefore wouldn't be much of a high-performer with a 3.4 anyways... WRONG. talk to topless94style. his '94 vert pretty much stays even with my '96 GTP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandors Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 I own a 95 convertible, 3100, triple black. Kind of a rare color combination. 134k miles. The 3100 pulls this car along just fine, and yes it's nice and easy to work on. I've had to do some work and I can't imagine what it would have taken with the 3.4. Also the gas mileage isn't bad. As far as the FE3 suspension, mine didn't have it, but I got some performance struts and the ride is nice and very controlled, no float. I went with Monroe Reflex's... there are other good choices out there. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widetrak95 Posted August 11, 2004 Report Share Posted August 11, 2004 I love my 3.4 but the 3.1 is an extremely reliable and long lasting engine. (my dad's a mechanic). The DOHC makes the engine less reliable and has more things that can break. However, all engines need regular mantinence, and all of the common parts wear out no matter what type of engine you have. If you're working on it yourself, go for the 3.1, but if you're taking it to a mechanic, go for the 3.4, because $60/ hr is the same on either engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 11, 2004 Report Share Posted August 11, 2004 I completely disagree. You may pay $60/hr to a mechanic for both engines, but the 3.4 requires far more man hours for repair/maintennance operations. You will pay out the a$$ to pay someone to fix the 3.4. The 3.4 is an enthusiast engine, in other words, if you can't fix it yourself, then don't buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted August 11, 2004 Report Share Posted August 11, 2004 I completely disagree. You may pay $60/hr to a mechanic for both engines, but the 3.4 requires far more man hours for repair/maintennance operations. You will pay out the a$$ to pay someone to fix the 3.4. The 3.4 is an enthusiast engine, in other words, if you can't fix it yourself, then don't buy it. ding ding ding....common sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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