ron350 Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 Here is a link to a good VOV discussion. http://www.ackits.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=8470&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE= Quote
Smoke1991 Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 OK, this is what you do, one of brians friends helped me out one day with this while i stoped by his work, bought 4 cans of freez 12, went back to my house and took a small object (i used an allen key) and just pushed the little thing in and all my crap squirted out into the air (oops) shhhh...... I also suggest no more than 4 cans TOPS! 3 cans will get you chilling pritty good if you evaced your system like i did. i put more like 3 n a half in because i was impatient for the car to suck up every drop of the freez12 filled it up, and now it gets hella cold in my car. own a 93 cutlass 3.1mpfi if you you wana be a nature freak and want to get it evaced correctly, go to any auto place. If not, small alen key and a rubber glove will work, also dont breath any of the crap comming out in. Quote
Whiskey River Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 OK, this is what you do, one of brians friends helped me out one day with this while i stoped by his work, bought 4 cans of freez 12, went back to my house and took a small object (i used an allen key) and just pushed the little thing in and all my crap squirted out into the air (oops) shhhh......I also suggest no more than 4 cans TOPS! 3 cans will get you chilling pritty good if you evaced your system like i did. i put more like 3 n a half in because i was impatient for the car to suck up every drop of the freez12 filled it up, and now it gets hella cold in my car. own a 93 cutlass 3.1mpfi if you you wana be a nature freak and want to get it evaced correctly, go to any auto place. If not, small alen key and a rubber glove will work, also dont breath any of the crap comming out in. If the cans were 12 oz cans with no oil and, for the sake of the argument, you got 3.5 cans squeezed in there, You are severly overcharged according to the Freeze-12 specs. You should only be running a 60-70% charge. Your head pressures are probably through the roof. I would have it checked out with a good set of gauges. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 Whiskey River - I looked up 99-01 Luminas, and they use a VDOT (Variable Displacement Orifice Tube) system. Does VDOT mean it uses a VOV, or does VDOT simply mean it uses a FOT and the compressor is variable? To my knowledge the Luminas ran the V5 compressor throughout their life. I would guess they still used the FOT. It wouldn't make much sense to use a variable orifice tube with a variable compressor. Bet you have learned more about AC then you really wanted to. :-) Nothing feels better than a good cold AC, so it's good to learn. So it doesn't make much sense to use a VOV with a variable compressor... I didn't know that, but it seems in the link that Ron posted that most people think a VOV doesn't really help anyway. I saw someone said this: I can't see any advantage to switching from TXV to OT. Most people would want to go the other way, and some have done so. What's involved in converting to TXV, and is it that much better? Quote
Whiskey River Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 Whiskey River - I looked up 99-01 Luminas, and they use a VDOT (Variable Displacement Orifice Tube) system. Does VDOT mean it uses a VOV, or does VDOT simply mean it uses a FOT and the compressor is variable? To my knowledge the Luminas ran the V5 compressor throughout their life. I would guess they still used the FOT. It wouldn't make much sense to use a variable orifice tube with a variable compressor. Bet you have learned more about AC then you really wanted to. :-) Nothing feels better than a good cold AC, so it's good to learn. So it doesn't make much sense to use a VOV with a variable compressor... I didn't know that, but it seems in the link that Ron posted that most people think a VOV doesn't really help anyway. I saw someone said this: I can't see any advantage to switching from TXV to OT. Most people would want to go the other way, and some have done so. What's involved in converting to TXV, and is it that much better? To switch to a Thermal Expansion Valve would require removing the OT and putting the TXV in it's place. The TXV is controlled by a thermistor that attaches to the line on the evaporator side. A TXV tries to maintain a constant evaporator temp by opening when too cold and restricing when too warm. Almost the same as trying to keep the pressure the same but it is done by temp instead. Since none of my autos has a TXV I don't have hands on experience with them. One downside that I keep hearing about is the adjustment on it. Too restrictive and you'll freeze the evaporator and too open, you'll get warm vent temps. If you are really interested in getting the vent temps down in your retrofit, buy a V5 compressor from a junkyard. One way to tell if they worked when junked is if the system still has pressure in it. Take the hoses loose from the back and run your pinky finger inside the hose, if it comes out clean, the compressor should be good. Change the control valve and then replace your compressor. With the new control valve, the V5 compressor will try and maintain a pressure around 19-22psi, meaning you'll have 33-35 degree vent temps with R134 or wire your fans together so that they both run simultaneously, that'll keep the head pressure down, lowering the vent temps. Quote
Stevo Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 I think Canadians should be aware that it is illegal to vent CFCs like R12 and so on into the environment. Here in Nova Scotia ... R12 is like gold. It is no longer permitted to actively sell R12. I heard a rumour that the lowest price for R12 is $50-65/lb. I'd love to recharge both of my cars with Freeze12 but I dont think it is possible to import this from the US due to our strict environmental standards. Can anyone verify this? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 If you are really interested in getting the vent temps down in your retrofit, buy a V5 compressor from a junkyard. One way to tell if they worked when junked is if the system still has pressure in it. Take the hoses loose from the back and run your pinky finger inside the hose, if it comes out clean, the compressor should be good. Change the control valve and then replace your compressor. With the new control valve, the V5 compressor will try and maintain a pressure around 19-22psi, meaning you'll have 33-35 degree vent temps with R134 or wire your fans together so that they both run simultaneously, that'll keep the head pressure down, lowering the vent temps. Why buy a new V5 compressor? Is it not possible to change the control valve in my existing V5 compressor? 33-35 degree vent temps sounds awesome! I take it a TXV conversion isn't easy bolt-on? Quote
Whiskey River Posted July 23, 2004 Report Posted July 23, 2004 If you are really interested in getting the vent temps down in your retrofit, buy a V5 compressor from a junkyard. One way to tell if they worked when junked is if the system still has pressure in it. Take the hoses loose from the back and run your pinky finger inside the hose, if it comes out clean, the compressor should be good. Change the control valve and then replace your compressor. With the new control valve, the V5 compressor will try and maintain a pressure around 19-22psi, meaning you'll have 33-35 degree vent temps with R134 or wire your fans together so that they both run simultaneously, that'll keep the head pressure down, lowering the vent temps. Why buy a new V5 compressor? Is it not possible to change the control valve in my existing V5 compressor? 33-35 degree vent temps sounds awesome! I take it a TXV conversion isn't easy bolt-on? You could certainly do it with the compressor currently on your car, buying a JY compressor can yield some hands on before attempting it with a working one. The control valve is merely held in with a snap ring. Take the snap ring out, control valve comes out (quite forcefully if you haven't reclaimed the refrigerant yet :-)) If you decide to go this step, make sure the control valve you buy is for R134 and not R12 or you'll be right back where you started. As for the TXV, you are correct, not as easy. You'll have to reclaim the refrigerant anyway, may as well change the control valve, less chance of failure or negative results. One thing that GM blessed us with is these cars have large condensors and evaporators for their size. With the proper steps and good airflow across both, you should be able to hang meat in the car. Quote
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