THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 I agree screw authenticity its just a w-body and not as rare like a TGP or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 5. I can wire the boost into the TGP cluster that going in (same with L67 tho...) 6. No new wiring needed and alll that computer crap. I've got bad news, 1) You don't want the boost gauge in the TGP, and 2) If you think you won't be doing any chip tuning w/ a boosted TDC you've got another thing coming. Only chance you've got of eliminating that problem is talking one of the boosted 3.4 guys out of their recipe (engine build AND chip) mimic the motor EXACTLY and use their chip. And HOPE you have as good/bad a machinist as they do. If any kind of pnp is used, you may be out of luck. As most 2 humans don't do it the same. Good luck, but for simplicity as I said, 3800 (and by looking at the polls, I'm the only one on that one ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 I really want the l67 in the worst way. but dont you have to rewire that ecm thing and whatever else? Forgive me if im mistaken but ive heard its a very involved swap b/c off alll the supercharger stuff, the computer input, ettc... what would i look to spend on an l67? I hate the 3.4 and reallly want the l67 in there but how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 I really want the l67 in the worst way. but dont you have to rewire that ecm thing and whatever else? Forgive me if im mistaken but ive heard its a very involved swap b/c off alll the supercharger stuff, the computer input, ettc... what would i look to spend on an l67? I hate the 3.4 and reallly want the l67 in there but how? Just swap in the ECM from the L67. As long as it's a pre-OBD 1.5/II, then you're fine. I was originally planning on swapping a Series II, but after a long, drawn out thought process I realized that I wasn't up to dealing with the SII's Serial Data Bus and trying to figure out a way to have my DIC and HUD working. So, as long as the engine is OBD-I and/or doesn't use a SDB, you should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 and years/ etc to look foor that would be obd-whatever??? *if* ii was to have this done, what would i expect too get raped for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 If you are paying someone to do this I think its safe to say that the cheapest route would definately be putting in another 3.4. If you don't care about performance as much a 3.1 would probably be able to be dropped in since I think it would use the same computer (just change the chip). One of those engines is probably in your best interest if you have limited knowledge and cannot do the swap yourself... A L67, requires a ton of wireing from what I understand so a mechanic would have his way with you! $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 1993 and prior will get you OBD1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 1993 and prior will get you OBD1 Therefore a 3.1, 3.4, maybe 3.8 n/a (series I in the GS?) would be the cheapest/easiest swap.. especially if you are not doing the work yourself. I don't think the cost of the engine is really the issue here.. rather the fact that you aren't a mechanic and admit to having limited knowledge and experience, so whatever is easiest for a mechanic will be easiest on your wallet. 3.4 is probably best, then get to know the engine for basic maintenance required and you should be happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsgrntld187 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 Hey how come no one suggested a Caddy 4.9L? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 1993 and prior will get you OBD1 Therefore a 3.1, 3.4, maybe 3.8 n/a (series I in the GS?) would be the cheapest/easiest swap.. especially if you are not doing the work yourself. I don't think the cost of the engine is really the issue here.. rather the fact that you aren't a mechanic and admit to having limited knowledge and experience, so whatever is easiest for a mechanic will be easiest on your wallet. 3.4 is probably best, then get to know the engine for basic maintenance required and you should be happy with it. That, or the Bonneville and LeSabre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThunderBat Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 you can check out L67.com and 60degreeV6.com for all sorts of swap information...L67.com has a pretty extensive list of ppl that have done the swap and could be a great resource for you...if you're going to build an engine out of the car and then swap it in, the 3.1 can be made to produce as much or more power than the 3.4 was doing and you would have the reliability and easier maint...the L36 is also a good choice since it will also easily exceed 220hp in normal aspirated form and do it on reg gas with stone solid reliability, but if you go to the trouble to swap to the 90degree V6 it would probably be just as easy to go for the L67...plus you would be getting a better tranny in the process...to me the LQ1 is just too high maint, too mean to work on in the car for the performance it gives...it would be my last choice. ...and btw, there are aftermarket blowers and turbos for the L36... but ANY boosted engine approaching 300hp (and most will) is going to send the tranny south in a hurry....as I stated above, this makes the L67 swap the best package deal...it is a proven reliable performer with great aftermarket support...or just buy your time and put a V8 in that NASCAR bred machine! (the LS4 is on its way!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnight rider Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 Hey how come no one suggested a Caddy 4.9L? I like the way you think. If i had the money, I'd go that route or the supercharged 3800. The supercharged 3800 in my boss's Riviera is fast enough to pull you into the seat on a hard accelration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 I suggest doing a L36 or an L67, Because They are reliable and both have versions in OBD1. So you can get a L36 and get a wiring harness off a OBD1 Regal w/ a 3800 and it should be a much easier wiring project. The L67 would be a about the same also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 Well, I would say go with the 3.4 because thats what the petty editions came with so I would try to keep it stock, but if your not very mechanically inclined I would go with something different. Also if you go with the OBD 1 version of the L67 it'll be like 220 HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 L67 is the answer to everything. i actually voted for the LG5, even tho it obviously has some shortcomings notably the intake and small turbo....just think 3x00 topend swap and a T3 flanged crossover pipe. from my experience TGP parts are pretty easy to find, heck you can get an entire TGP for under a grand. a Getrag 5-speed goes right onto a 60* V6 unlike a 3800, and the pushrod 60* V6 is every bit as dependable as a 3800. the memcal can also be edited and burned yourself with free/inexpensive tools....no need to send off big $$$ for a reprogramed PCM like the newer cars use. otherwise i would go for a 3400 and a T3/T4 turbo using batch fire ECM/memcal engine management. i'd still like to see someone put a 2.8 crank into a 3400... the 3.4 DOHC would have to be my last choice, mostly because it's an interferance engine with a timing belt....that just scares me. btw, i gotta say i'm partial to the LG5...i have one waiting for a rebuild in my garage right now i do like the idea of a Series-1 L67 tho.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsgrntld187 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 L67 is the answer to everything. i actually voted for the LG5, even tho it obviously has some shortcomings notably the intake and small turbo....just think 3x00 topend swap and a T3 flanged crossover pipe. from my experience TGP parts are pretty easy to find, heck you can get an entire TGP for under a grand. a Getrag 5-speed goes right onto a 60* V6 unlike a 3800, and the pushrod 60* V6 is every bit as dependable as a 3800. the memcal can also be edited and burned yourself with free/inexpensive tools....no need to send off big $$$ for a reprogramed PCM like the newer cars use. otherwise i would go for a 3400 and a T3/T4 turbo using batch fire ECM/memcal engine management. i'd still like to see someone put a 2.8 crank into a 3400... the 3.4 DOHC would have to be my last choice, mostly because it's an interferance engine with a timing belt....that just scares me. btw, i gotta say i'm partial to the LG5...i have one waiting for a rebuild in my garage right now i do like the idea of a Series-1 L67 tho.... What would putting a 2.8 crank into a 3400 do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 I would say Turbo 3.1L. 1. You are not very mechanically inclined, a 3.4 DOHC will drain you dry. 2. You're probably paying someone to install the engine. An L67's wiring, new hoses, lines, etc., will also drain you dry. 3. Turbo 3.1L is not without its problems, but it should drop right in and I think the firewall connector will plug right in. You shouldn't have a problem given your state allows an older engine to be put into a newer car and your car doesn't have ABS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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