R Dubya Posted July 16, 2004 Report Share Posted July 16, 2004 I'm going to be rebuilding this engine with the lost cam lobes in the next 2 weeks, I'm trying to put my rebuild together with new cam, lifters, new rings and main and rod bearings, but I have hit a bottleneck. Summit does not know which main bearings I need, they give me three options, 3/4 groove, standard bearings, or a .50mm offset bearing. Does anyone know which ones I am supposed to have here? Is this something the dealer can answer? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted July 17, 2004 Report Share Posted July 17, 2004 I assume your talking Federal Mogal/Sealed Power bearings. There the only one I know of that have the 3/4 groove and there getting harder to find. I like the grooved ones but either grooved or standerd work fine. Mains 7242m I have got grooved and standerd with the same p/n Rod 4020ap V6 cam 1492m Chevy v8 cam 1235m at least for the front and rear or all 4. Moly rings E605k. A bit pricy$98.99 but good rings. Don't know which lobe went out on yours but if it was 9 or 10 I would add oilers. Check # 3 main carefully, thats wher the trash ends up from a bad cam. Good luck on the rebuild. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 There's a picture on here already. I'll see If I can find it after the mile high qualifing. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 Jud, don't know if it's yours or not, but my WWW has one in the random crap folder. I think it's yours. Check it out, I just added it, so it might take a min. or 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 Yea Jay thats it. Thanks. Thats the first one. I was able to get it to squirt on the back side of the cam (thats where you want it) with different line and a bunch of bending. It's 1/16 tubing with the tip smashed down to about half size. It saved a cam for me. Since losing a couple of cams I paint the pushrods with a white strip about 1 1/2'' long. Put a bunch of towels behind the engine and start it with the valve cover off. Actually it didn't spray as much as I thought it would. If the pushrod/s don't turn you got problems. Do one cover at a time to avoid a big mess. I leave the alt off so I can see all the rods in back. I don't worry about flat cams anymore. I put a roller in it. And yea lifters too. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 You know what...I didn't have a cam problem after putting the Crane cam. All I did was let the engine turn over till I had pressure...and then kept turning it over every 2min 5 times. I wanted to make sure the engine was fully oiled...then connected the injector harness and let her rip. I was going to do that oil sqirt mod...but thought to myself...why doen't the stock cam wipe out if it does have a oil problem. Its the breakin proceadure. Of course...if you put loads of power (350+hp) with high pressure springs...then the roller would be needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted July 20, 2004 Report Share Posted July 20, 2004 So how come no one uses the Oil Pump drive with a drill to prime it? Just get a drill with a LONG extention, get the right attachment and have at it, that is what he did, showed oil pressure good, and had oil throughout the engine for startup and it went smooth as can be, considering it was with 42 lb/hr injectors with 0 tuning on the Haltech....Even though it was kind of hard to hear anyone for the next 15 minutes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted July 20, 2004 Report Share Posted July 20, 2004 Since it was all ready and I was excited about it running...I didn't want to go to the parts store to rent a primming tool...it was late already. I don't know how you got pressure with just primming it with just a shaft and drill since the oil will just pour out of the hole where the distributer...or oil pump driver(forgot name) would sit. It blocks the lifter oil galleri. Well...if it works for you. Maybe my block was different. If I remove the front oil galleri plug...I could see all the way to the back...where the distributer or pump driver hole is at. Maybe you all have it pluged at the back. Mines a 94 block...with untapped provisions for a roller cam setup. The bearing I got had a long groove on the top ones. I think even my 2.8 got the groove bearings. But arn't all production bearings have grooves...except the small jurnal pre-85 2.8s. Its suppose to help keep good oil pressure in the rod bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted July 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2004 I assume your talking Federal Mogal/Sealed Power bearings. There the only one I know of that have the 3/4 groove and there getting harder to find. I like the grooved ones but either grooved or standerd work fine. Mains 7242m I have got grooved and standerd with the same p/n Rod 4020ap V6 cam 1492m Chevy v8 cam 1235m at least for the front and rear or all 4. Moly rings E605k. A bit pricy$98.99 but good rings. Don't know which lobe went out on yours but if it was 9 or 10 I would add oilers. Check # 3 main carefully, thats wher the trash ends up from a bad cam. Good luck on the rebuild. Jud Yes, the bearings were from Sealed Power I believe, something that I was quoted from Summit, but just like the dealer, they posted 3 types of bearings and wanted me to be sure before they completed my order. The lobe that is gone is the cylinder #5 intake lobe. I am thinking that it may be best for me to heed your warning there and add that oiler, I remember seeing that pic before, I update that when I get the engine out. What are the chances that this also damaged the crank? Scratches or imperfections be repaired or only replace the crank? Where are these part numbers from? Summit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 21, 2004 Report Share Posted July 21, 2004 The crank can be polished/turned as long as there are oversized bearings to take up the slack. We always used an old dist. w/ the top removed to seal the system. I wonder if we could take the dist. delete thingy and take the plug out, and get to the shaft. :?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted July 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2004 After looking at that pic of the oiler for the cam, I am fairly sure that is cylinder #5, which is the where my lobe failed. Jud can I ask you what you needed to do that? I see 1/16" tubing in the post above, but what else is needed to accomplish this? It's best if I prevent this from happening again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 21, 2004 Report Share Posted July 21, 2004 Man I hope nobody saw this before the edit. :oops: Yup, lobes #10 (Cyl 5) and 11 (cyl 6). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted July 21, 2004 Report Share Posted July 21, 2004 The crank can be polished/turned as long as there are oversized bearings to take up the slack. We always used an old dist. w/ the top removed to seal the system. I wonder if we could take the dist. delete thingy and take the plug out, and get to the shaft. :?: Yea Jay the crank can be turned but If they grind the reliefs away or don't re grind them tell them they just bought a crank. In other words pick a good grinder. This is not the eaiest crank to grind. Pre oiling. Just take out the dist thingy, no plug just the thingy unbolt the throttle body(don't have to take the cable off and you have a straight shot at the oil pump drive. You can watch the oil go down the hole. I think its about 7mm socket. just get it back together in a hurry and start it. Ryan Wrote Where are these part numbers from? Summit? any parts store that sells FM. I answered the oiler on the other board. other than the fitting is a 1/8 pipe male to a 1/6 tube compression fitting rt angle. Boy your a busssy guy. Jud . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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