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heh.. heh.. (now wait, wtf good will this do?)


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Posted

well the fat white bitch is out of service for the time being. I wouldn't even drive it today I was so afraid of the condition of the brakes. Took a wheel off and there's no pad left on the fronts. But that's ok...

 

IMG_4535b.jpg

 

IMG_4537b.jpg

 

IMG_4540b.jpg

 

:P

 

I thew a tire back on cause I don't trust the jack.. nothings happening yet, tommorrow me and my stepdad need to go out tool shopping and they'll be swapped. The rotors on those aren't toooo bad but they'll be replaced soon anyway. The pads looked brand new.

Posted

I must have missed something, but you pulled the front knuckle just to do the pads and rotors?

Posted
I must have missed something, but you pulled the front knuckle just to do the pads and rotors?

That's what I was about to say.. :?

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Looks like he's putting the new strut towers and bigger front brakes on.

Posted

Completely unrelated side note: As far as 88-93's go, coupe strut towers will not bolt up to sedan ones. I'm still stuck with my fucking FE1 up there. :x

Posted
Looks like he's putting the new strut towers and bigger front brakes on.

 

bingo.

Guest TurboSedan
Posted
Completely unrelated side note: As far as 88-93's go, coupe strut towers will not bolt up to sedan ones. I'm still stuck with my fucking FE1 up there. :x

 

care to elaborate?

Posted

The studs are in the wrong places. They won't go into the holes in the body, that is. I wasn't very clear.

Guest TurboSedan
Posted

this might sound stupid, but are you sure you're putting the right studs through the right holes? one of the studs is spaced further away from the other two.

 

i just find it hard to believe that a coupe strut is different than a sedan strut.

Guest TurboSedan
Posted
I'm still stuck with my fucking FE1 up there. :x

 

why not just transfer the spring over? that's the only thing about the strut/knuckle assembly that is 'FE3'. but heck i would just get some newer strut/knuckles with big brakes like Gutless. i wouldn't even bother using old 'FE3' springs.

Posted

Well, I just plan on using the old springs with some nice new KYB's all around. I just need a stiffer monoleaf now.

Posted
I'm sure. We sat them side by side. They really are different.

 

You sure it wasn't just turned funny? I've checked part numbers and I'm almost certain they're the same.

 

Hey Gutless, how much did those knuckles set you back and where'd you get 'em?

Posted
I'm sure. We sat them side by side. They really are different.

 

You sure it wasn't just turned funny? I've checked part numbers and I'm almost certain they're the same.

 

Hey Gutless, how much did those knuckles set you back and where'd you get 'em?

I'm sure. It took me 15 minutes to figure out that "HEY! These are different!" I really couldn't believe it, either. FWIW, they're off a Regal GS.

Posted

Im about to put a set of 95 GTP strut/knuckle assemblies on my 93 LE sedan. I'll be checking fitment today to make sure.. if not then you guys will see me on the evening news.

Posted
I'm sure. We sat them side by side. They really are different.

 

You sure it wasn't just turned funny? I've checked part numbers and I'm almost certain they're the same.

 

Hey Gutless, how much did those knuckles set you back and where'd you get 'em?

 

ran me 100 bucks each for the whole assemblies, got them at Kingstown Auto Recycling in RI.

Posted

Someone, please, restore my faith.

 

What the fuck good is it to have a bigger rotor with the same size pad as the old rotor? Maybe they cool a bit better? The current lack of some tools and exuberant price this project is costing me is making me second guess it. I need to make up my mind to either bring the damn things back and get my $200 bucks back and not go through this stress and frustration for nothing or know that this is actually making a difference. Because it's looking like it'll end up just being a 10.5" rotor/pad change and the rear caliper slider repair kit.

Posted

fuck it. just read over my j/y reciept, just to be sure... and I guess I wasn't so sure.

 

no cash refunds.

 

so I guess I'm doing it..

 

so I need to put 1 caliper back together, put my wheels back on, lose the jacks, drive 30 miles without brakes, get it into my step dads garage at work, and hunt down a t60 torx bit. oh yea, then don't forget the additional $60 alignment after that.

 

so in the past few day's I've spent...

 

$214 loaded struts

$29.41 Craftsman jack set (on sale)

$67.98 2 no name rotors

$34.99 ball joint

$47.99 PG Plus pads

$69.99 torque wrench

$2.97 purple power cleaner

+$60 alignment

+$?? T60 torx bit

------------------------

+/- $523.33

 

...on my piece of shit w-body.

 

$180 power windows/locks

$25 tranny cooler/DIS bin

$35 DIS

$10 thermostat

$10 trunk release

few bucks for bulbs, gaskets, hoses, wipers, fluids

$10 wax

$15 claybar

$10 wheel/tire cleaners, armor all, whatever else..

$40? service manual

$18 fog lights

$10 DC outlet

 

I know that last list isn't bad at all, but I need to stop buying nonessential shit for a car that I don't want. Should've never even started buying things other than what needed to be replaced, I'd be +$800 right now...

 

I hate first gen w-bodies.

Posted

It's rotor diameter that affects braking distance, not pad size.

 

The pad size affects pad cooling.

 

Same pads and calipers with only the rotors larger will still decrease braking distance. This is because the circumference of the area where braking force is applied is increased, so even with the same pads, for each revolution the brake pad has swept across a larger area. In other words, for the larger brakes, the wheel has to rotate less for the pad to sweep the same area.

Kind of confusing for me to explain, but maybe someone else can do it better?

 

If you're not going to use them, I'll buy 'em off ya!

Doesn't take me but an evening to swap 'em since I have all the specialty tools.

Posted

Alright, I get what your saying.

 

My step dad and uncle started helping me do it, and after our project halt after tool lackage, they started telling me that it was odd that bigger rotors would use the same caliper/sized pad, that they thought I might not really be gaining any braking power because the size of the contact point between the rotor and pad is still the same.. there's nothing additional that's helping to grab the rotor.

 

fucking GM brakes.

Posted

yep, W's dont have the bestest of the brakes. when i bought my car the front pads and rotors were almost shot. the car jerked when i pressed the brake cause of the warped rotors.

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