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Duck"wheeled" montecarlo....


Crash_z34

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so i'm pulling out of a parking lot and *SNAP*, i come to a devistating hault. i get out of the car to see what happened, and tadaa, duckfooted (or wheeled). CV joint completely failed. my car is simply resting on the tire. (left side by the way). when the tow guy was getting it up on the truck, it was literally hopping up it (gimp car).........here's some pics

 

cv1.jpg

cv2.jpg

cv3.jpg

 

any ideas on how much this will cost?

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I'd say a half shaft from a yard would be pretty cheap, 40 or so. Is the spring/strut damaged? You may need new, uhh, everything for the suspension on that side.

 

Sucks man, I'm sorry.

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From the looks of that, the half shaft is the effect. The ball joint looks more like the cause. Id imagine new, the ball joint and half shaft would be about 150 in parts.

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Yeah, I was thinking ball joint. The axle snapping will not take out a ball joint, but a ball joint will take out an axle. I love how the grease made it's way upto the inner fender. :x Ouch.

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From the looks of that, the half shaft is the effect. The ball joint looks more like the cause. Id imagine new, the ball joint and half shaft would be about 150 in parts.

 

The half shaft is the aftereffect, but the cause is a broken outer tie rod end. The tie rod end is what connects the rack to the strut knuckles and steers the car. When you replace your tie rods, be sure you get MOOG brand parts, not the cheap shit the auto parts stores sell. You can get MOOG's from carparts.com ...

 

When I first bought my wife's Lumina, I did a full tuneup/lubejob and noticed the stock tie rods didn't have grease zerks on them. The right outer tie rod end was rusting apart because of this, so I immediately had them replaced. It's important to grease the balljoints and tie rod ends at least every other oil change to force out the moisture and dirt to prevent them from self destructing and causing what happened here...

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From the looks of that, the half shaft is the effect. The ball joint looks more like the cause. Id imagine new, the ball joint and half shaft would be about 150 in parts.

 

The half shaft is the aftereffect, but the cause is a broken outer tie rod end. The tie rod end is what connects the rack to the strut knuckles and steers the car. When you replace your tie rods, be sure you get MOOG brand parts, not the cheap shit the auto parts stores sell. You can get MOOG's from carparts.com ...

 

When I first bought my wife's Lumina, I did a full tuneup/lubejob and noticed the stock tie rods didn't have grease zerks on them. The right outer tie rod end was rusting apart because of this, so I immediately had them replaced. It's important to grease the balljoints and tie rod ends at least every other oil change to force out the moisture and dirt to prevent them from self destructing and causing what happened here...

 

now that you mention tie rods, I wonder if Crash's was one of the recalled ones for the rack problem. Although I think that was from a bearing and didnt actually have a disconnecting problem.

 

But the grease wont prevent the threads from rusting, just the joint. The stock ones on mine when I replaced them were fine after 140k miles. The grease fittings were just for aftermarket ones that werent sealed.

 

Crash.- did you recently have an alignment? I wonder if they screwed up and didnt leave enough threads in the tie rod and they tore out.

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:shock: wow that sucks.

 

Knowing that I've done the balljoint on the pass side and outter tie-rod on my car MYSELF is kinda scarey :lol: however I've driven the piss outta it the last couple months and the wheel hasn't broke off yet, so I guess I did good :P . I always jiggle the tires when I change my oil to make sure things are tight.

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Guest TurboSedan

how can you tell it was the outer tie rod? it looks to me like the ball joint simply broke and pulled the inner CV apart. it looks like the outer tie rod could still be connected to the strut/knuckle assembly.

 

you can still see the lower ball joint stud & castle nut on the lower contol arm...

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imma guess the balljoint snapped which took out the axle. go pickup a balljoint ($30), axle ($75), tie rod with ends ($130) and check to make sure the control arm isnt warped.

 

good luck.

 

-Jeff

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Regardless of what caused it, Crash z34 needs to run more air pressure in those tires...............LOOK at how bad both shoulders are worn :shock:

 

 

 

:wink:

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I would also replace that front brake hose as looking in those pics, its stretched to the max. I wouldnt drive it without replaceing it...

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Had that happen to a car I was in once....

 

I told them three ball joint was bad and they should fix it. and bam 2 days later it did that so a $50 repair became a $350 repair.

plus it Messed up the fender.

 

the Tow Truck guy should have put it on a wheel lift not a Flat bed.

it worked for us. the guy we had tried putting it on the Bed but then didnt want to F it up more so he placed one side of the wheel lift under the front support brace and lifted enough to put a 4x4 under it and then resituated and got it so he got 2 4x4's under it and then put it on the wheel lift. with NO more Further damage to the car...

 

BTW it was a 96 Grand am

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i'm pretty sure it's the ball joint. if the repairs are any where near what you guys are saying, then thank god. The strut tower looks like it was taken out but can be reattached. the tires are definately worn due to my driving the shit outta them, but i'm definately suprised it didn't pop with all the weight it had on it (it's sittin on jack stands in front of my house right now) I was ready to murder the tow guy when he was getting my poor baby on that truck. he lifted up my car with the bottom of his fucking bed!! not healthy to pick up a car by the bumper, i'm pretty sure my scrape protector is fucked up as well as the bumper.

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