god910 Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 Okay guys, it's on!!!! I'm setting a budget for myself (hopefully I can stick to it as well) The budget for the tranny is $2000. I'm gonna have this tranny pulled apart (Hopefully by me) so I can see what happened. Right now all that's suspect is the diff. I need people to post what problems they have had w/ their 282's. So far I've got: 1) Explosive differential 2) Output shaft walking out of the front of the case (Josh's 282 (Josh if you don't know why this happened lemme know, I'll explain it)) Remedies: 1) Moser Diff. (Still have to contact about that) 2) Straight cut gears (Need input see below) 2a) Front plate girdle?? (Might not be needed, if we use straight cut gears) Situations: I know that most trannies have either the input OR output gears (shafts) that are 1 piece. Is this the case w/ this transaxle? Who's had one of these apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 (Josh's 282 (Josh if you don't know why this happened lemme know, I'll explain it)) Who's had one of these apart? sure, i guess i was blaming it on high miles. btw, i still have that blown 282, i should just take it apart for the hell of it and take pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted June 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 You know it could still be rebuilt. They just cap the housings (From what I can tell anyhow) unless it chewed up the innards from moving. When torque is applied to the spherical cut gears they need to walk one way or another. (Like the pinion gear on a RWD rear) The pinion tries to "walk" up the ring gear. W/ the trannie gears cut the same way, they push the driven gear up. (In our case being towards the motor) So, to keep this from happening, straight cut gears wold keep the "walking" motion from happening. HOWEVER, and this is a big one. It'll sound like a fucking V12 w/ bad lifters Very loud. That's why they don't use them. People would complain. I however would rather have a bulletproof tranny. So, the only problems I see so far have been addressed. I guess if I can't come up w/ more, then I'll have to find them the hard way. :x Josh, if you could get the shafts out and get pics that would be awesome. Then I'd know if I have to get both shafts made or just one. (The 1 piece shafts are turned from a billet. Can you say OUCH on the old pocketbook ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 Why not just start over with a 284 tranny? I was also thinking about the posibility of a 4 speed fiero, also in some citations, transmission instead. The only reason I suggest it is because that it would be perfect for a racing tranny. Do you honestly make it to 5th gear in a 1/4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skalor Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 I'm was nearing the top of 4th when I ran my 284 equipped TGP at the track. I think I was seeing around 5000 rpms at 93 mph when I went through the traps. Then again, that was on the stock tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted June 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 Why not just start over with a 284 tranny? I was also thinking about the posibility of a 4 speed fiero, also in some citations, transmission instead. The only reason I suggest it is because that it would be perfect for a racing tranny. Do you honestly make it to 5th gear in a 1/4? 284 Clutchs are WAY expensive. Even a stock clutch isn't cheap, a perf. clutch who knows, never looked. Also, they are quite rare compared to the 282, 282's are hard enough to find let alone 284's. I know nothing about the 4 speeds in the Fiero's tell me more, I'm intrigued. The 2 runs that I actually made it through I was pretty high into 4th gear but again, stock tach, so who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboZ24 Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 I'll add to that list of problems. Differential explosion, yeah (Axle failures too). add to that breaking off the mounting tabs on the tranny.... 1/2 shift not working at higher rpm..... and simply an unusable 1st gear for the most part. I need someone to solve the apparently shift issues with the 282 when the engine is spinning above 7000 rpm. Technically I don't need a 5th either, and unless I increase the power of the motor, even a 4th, since I go through the trap at 113 in 3rd, but that would suck for highway driving without them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted June 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 I'll add to that list of problems. Differential explosion, yeah (Axle failures too). add to that breaking off the mounting tabs on the tranny.... 1/2 shift not working at higher rpm..... and simply an unusable 1st gear for the most part. I need someone to solve the apparently shift issues with the 282 when the engine is spinning above 7000 rpm. Technically I don't need a 5th either, and unless I increase the power of the motor, even a 4th, since I go through the trap at 113 in 3rd, but that would suck for highway driving without them.... Curtis, are you still using Cavi axles, if so, there's your problem. (Not saying you wouldn't break a W axle) but I have been told (as have others) that our axle are good for what this combo is capable of. Mounting tabs: Have you looked into a midplate, not like a typical RWD, but one that would use the engines rear girdle as a stabilizer. (This is assuming that we're talking about a fracture where the engine tranny bolt together.) As far as unuseable do you mean it winds out at like 20'? If so, custom gears would fix that altogether. (Since I'm already having new ones cut straight, a custom ratio wouldn't be that big of a deal.) The 1-2 shift over 7K you're going to have to look at the synchro's. I'd bet they are heating up and expanding, so you would have todo some double-clutching until they get hot (or a short-shift) All this is heresay and conjecture until I have it apart. So don't hold me to this. But I'd be willing to bet that you're builder will have to use a cutting tool (dremel probably the best, VERY thin discs) to expand the groove's in the synchro's. I was hoping you'd chime in on this one. So how did you fix the diff problem? What unit did you go w/ if you don't mind me asking, because I know moser will be expensive ($1000 or more) Eating up half my budget. (This is a flexible budget, but it's my hopes ) Have you had any push through the front like Josh's did? I'm thinking of having the front tapped for a custom torque plate (get rid of stock all together) But if I have gears cut this won't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboZ24 Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 Actually, on the Axles I use DSS axles, with STS outer CV joints. The funny thing is I really haven't had problems with the inner CV's or the shafts, or anything related to the housings themselves, the outer CV joints just like to pop. As for the mounting tabs, no I'm refering to the tabs that the tranny brackets bolt too, they break off the case. I can probably solve that problem by adding an additional solid mount where the rear bump stop is on the Cavalier tranny setup. The problem I have with first gear is the fact it's 3.5:1. I'd prefer a 1st around 3.0:1 instead. I can't do the burnouts on the slicks in 1st, engine hits the 8K rev limiter almost immediately, which kind of sucks. Some people have suggested launching in 2nd at the track, might try that. I was thinking it's related to the mechanics of the syncros, but I was thinking along the lines of the spring loaded keys on the syncro hub. I'm thinking that exessive rpm might be forcing the key out further, preventing the syncro from engaging properly. It doesn't grind, kick back, etc, it just will not engage unless you allow the motor to spin down, then it slips right in. Well, I looked into LSD's too, but the problem I also have it cost. I don't want to sink 1000+ into an LSD for a tranny that will most likely fail again, etc. If I can solve the syncro issue, and the case failure issue, then a full LSD is in order. I have a Phantom grip, but it does squat, but still we can get a 1.8xx with basically an open differential, not too bad. Otherwise, I haven't had other tranny issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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