test4echo Posted June 22, 2004 Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 Ok, the lowdown on what I have done. new pvc new EGR gaskets (including adaptor) new upper and lower intake gasgets fix my dist 0-ring leak new plugs (not wires) New HP streering line. Cleaned IAC Heres the strange part, The car runs great for the most part, then around 10 minutes into my ride As I let up on the gas I can see the rpm's go up and down and up and down. from 900 to 1100 to 900 to 1100. When i come to a complete stop, the rpm's still fluctuate. Yes I did check the Pintle Length. It still takes off and accelerates awesome. Then I get the SES light pop and a code 44. I swear as soon as that SES light trips, the car runs perfectly. Its as if the ECM, PCM, has compensated for whatever was wrong and fixed it. Its done this everytime I drive, I'm can't find out what up. I have the Mitchell's cd's and did everything they said to do, but I still have the problem. What I need to do is find out what the ECM is doing to compensate for the lean condition and fix it. But what the hell could it be? I just replaced the O2 sensor not that long ago. Only thing I can think of is something with the ERG itself. It has been buzzing louder than I remember. (But then, my memory is bad). But if it was the EGR, I'd be running Rich not lean. Hummm.....Gotta be the O2 sensor or the pigtail, or a vaccum leak. Any ideals guys? (And Girls of course....I like the gals....hehe :oops: ) test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted June 22, 2004 Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 some of the guys here have already told you Black electrical tape works wonders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted June 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 some of the guys here have already told you Black electrical tape works wonders They Have :?: So where do I put the tape......... So, you think its vaccum leak eh? I'll have to re-check. test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 If the egr is leaking you will be running lean. Forcing hot, crappy air into the intake will not produce a rich mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteOut Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 If, how ever the EGR is stuck closed you will be running rich. It could be as simple as taking the EGR off and cleaning it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loominaz34 Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Black electrical tape goes over the check engine light. therefore it's turned off. This theory is along the same lines of thought of "If a tree falls in the forest and noone hears it does it make a sound?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted June 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 i'll admit I am rookie when it comes to cars. But I cannot drive with that damn light on. I have to fix it..... No tape here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomshado Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 Then take the cluster out and remove the bulb behind the check engine dummy light. Black electrical tape could also be used to tape over a maybe loose connection of the egr sealing a vacuum leak too... just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 This sounds like a vacuum leak to me being that he replaced ALL those parts and the EGR valve is *new*....Although, "new" components can be defective sometimes. Take some carb cleaner in a spray can and spray it on your vacuum lines and around your intake gasket(s) the best you can. If the idle changes w/ the carb cleaner, then the item you sprayed is sucking the cleaner in and you've found yourself a vacuum leak. If you have the stock plastic vacuum lines..those are prone to crack w/ heat/age. EDIT: Btw, what engine are you having these problems with? I broke the stock plastic line on my previous 3.1 liter that goes to the MAP sensor and I had a rough idle and a lean condition(code 44) present. The car idled ~2K in park for a few minutes straight and after about 8-10 mins, the idle would drop down to ~600-700 rpms and the SES light would come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted June 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 mfewtrail, I have a 3.4L 92 Z34 Lunima. Vaccum leak, sounds possible. It seems that Heat is playing a role in this problem. Like I mentioned, the car runs great for quite a while, then after it heats up, I get the roaming idle, then about a minute later the SES Code 44 lights up, then 10 seconds after that, the problem goes away. I would think if it was a vaccum leak, this would occur right away and would not go away (until the leak was founded and sealed). Although I could be wrong about that. But the problem does go away once the Code is tripped. Maybe faulty EGR solenoids? 1 2 or 3. I dunno. I have an mtg2501 scanner I can use to test the egr. I'll do that tommorow. Let you know what the scanner finds out. Thanks, test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 you might have the very same problem i have!!! the coolant temperature sensor isnt functioning properly. same problem you have but mine does it when cold. your injectors might be open to long or to short.. since your running lean 2 short. coolant temperature would be an easy fix if you could get to it. it could be right behind the TPS sensor. it may be like my 95 and in the lower intake manifold, or you could possibly have it connected to your water pump. they moved it year to year and nobody really knows.. the chelton and hayns manuals dosnt even specify exact locations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 you might have the very same problem i have!!! the coolant temperature sensor isnt functioning properly. same problem you have but mine does it when cold. your injectors might be open to long or to short.. since your running lean 2 short. coolant temperature would be an easy fix if you could get to it. it could be right behind the TPS sensor. it may be like my 95 and in the lower intake manifold, or you could possibly have it connected to your water pump. they moved it year to year and nobody really knows.. the chelton and hayns manuals dosnt even specify exact locations That's what I tried to post a minute ago before the power went out here(was out for about 30mins :oops: ). I hit "submit" and then everything went dark. :shock: You can also rule out a bad ECT w/ the scanner. I worked on a Cavalier once w/ a faulty ECT and it was reading -40* if I'm remembering right, the car was running extremely rich thinking it was THAT cold out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2004 I though I had solved it, but its playing games. I found out that one of my MAP vaccum lines was melting on my EGR tube. Thought that had to be the problem, but alas, its not. (Well, it certainly WAS a problem...lol, just not the one I was looking for) I will be replacing that Temp sensor. I think you guys are right, it may be the source. Thanks, UPDATE: I used the scanner a bit today. O2 readings were normal. However, there is Lean/Rich reading on the scanner. My car after about 15 minutes, begins wildly fluctuatiing between lean and rich conitions. Of course this causes the car to stumble/miss, spitting muffler sound. The voltage readings for my senors drop drastically. (Thats expected). The interesting reading I got was, you guessed it, The Temp Sensor. It was reading way to high (in my opinion) for a cold start. 171 F and the car was OFF for 2 hours. So it may be that the temp sensor is telling the 02 sensor to close loop to soon causing my problems. The strange part about all this to me is, WHY does the problem go away after the code 44 trips? Thats what has me perplexed. Gezz, I hope i didn't accidentally get silicone all over the temp sensor. Will update. Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPdriver1986 Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 there is a possibility that you have a leak in your lower intake gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted July 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 Though I'd Update this for those who tried to help. I changed my oil, filter,plugs,wires, since then and added a CAI. I have not had the problem anymore. Don't ask me why, but it went away. No more SES 44's. Thanks for the tips!!!! test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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