Power Steering High Pressure...

[test4echo]

Man I tell ya, This was a bitch to fix.

 

I replaced the alternator, pulled the plenum and lower Intake, replaced those gasgets, siliconed the snot out of the dist o-ring, new plugs,pvc, cleaned the IAC (Pintle was caked with carbon) new EGR gasgets.

All of this done in a day. In fact, I had to do it twice because the first time I forgot to silicone the dist o-ring.

 

BUT, that frigging Power steering high prseesure line was the worst thing I have ever had to replace. Talk about a PITA!!!

 

So what I did instead of replacing the Line with a Stock HP Line, I had a buddy of mine (works at GM) make me a new High Pressure line.

One I could route in back of the engine (along the Firewall) and down the tranny funnel to its new home in the rack.

 

Now, I'm having the groaning and wail you might assocaite with Air in the line.

Only thing is it won't go away.

I've checked the fluid levels and its ok.

No air bubbles or foaming going on.

 

I am thinking that mabey the INSIDE diameter of the new hose I got is too big.

 

So my question is:

 

Would inside hose diameter matter? Its gotta be close to specs,

and how long can it take for the system to self bleed?

Maybe I haven't given it enough time?

 

Thanks,

 

Test,

[god910]

Man, you got some nuts messing w/ the already questionable W-body power steering. How we get best results at the Chrysler d-ship, we put the car up in the air (just enough to get the wheels off the ground) Car off, turn the wheels from near lock, to near lock (Try not to hit the locks) 2-4 times. Watch the fluid, add as needed and watch for bubbles. As far as the size, I would think the length would affect it as well. Also, what it's touching. There was a chrysler recall because the steering column in the Penis Cruisers was transmitting p/s noise into the car. It sounded pretty bad. Good luck!!

[lukee1982]

Power Steering Pump Replacement & Bleeding Procedure

To replace the pump you will need a pulley puller. You can rent them from AutoZone.

1. Safety purposes disconnect battery.

2. Remove coolant overflow

3. Remove serpentine belt 18mm

4. Remove fluid from reservoir (turkey baster) (sp?)

5. Disconnect lines put lines in a bag so they aren’t leaking more fluid on your engine. You will need a 16mm and a flathead screwdriver.

6. Remove the pulley now (using the pulley puller)

7. Remove the pump. (3) 13mm bolts

 

Removing Reservoir

If you get a pump without reservoir take of the clips retaining it.

You will need a flathead screwdriver

 

 

Power Assist Actuator (gm option)

8. To remove the actuator you will need to first take off the reservoir

9. Put pump back on car and remove (using car as a vise) and a pair of channel locks

10. Remove actuator

 

Put your old actuator on the new pump.

 

Put everything back together.

Reverse of teardown

Put the reservoir on make sure that the o-ring between the reservoir and tank is in place other wise you will never bleed the system.

 

Bleeding Procedure

1. Jack the car off the ground. So both front wheels are off the ground

2. Turn key on (don’t start)

3. Turn wheel to left and fill to (cold fill)

4. Turn wheel lock to lock up to or more than 40 times till there is no air bubbles maintain fluid level

5. Straighten out wheels lower.

6. Turn wheel left and right.

 

If there is noise check all connections again.

If the fluid is foamy or discolored it has air getting in somewhere check all connections and re-bleed.

 

Tools needed:

Metric tool set. 13mm, 16mm, 18mm

Flathead screwdriver

Channel locks

Jack

[test4echo]

Wish I would have asked earlier...

 

I have to say, I didn't have to remove anything ( well, I did remove the IAC and the Air filter). I was just able to get my arm between the throttle body and the Master Cylinder to reach the rack.

 

The one thing I didn't do is jack the car up and turn tires 40 times.

Guess I'll do that tonight.

 

 

Thanks guys,

 

Test,