I could use some help on VATS.

[SleeperRed90TGp]

My daughter in law’s 1997 Monty Carlo 2d 3.1 auto won’t start with the key. Turn the key and nothing.( security light comes on) She has been quoted by the dealer that it’s going to cost $$$350.00 to fix it plus the $55.00 towing fee. Absurd. There has to be a better way. I mean like we buy the grand kid his school cloths , game boys and so on, every year so no way can they afford over 400. Replaced his leaking lower intake last year cause $700.00 was just way to much for them to afford. Did take all day. But I am an old guy and work slower.

 

I guess what I would like to know is can I fix this system myself?

 

Apparently I can have the key checked for the number by a locksmith I have found who has the equipment. I can also check the resitance myself but that doesn’t give me the number if it’s just the key. I can also check for a broken wire between the IS and the decoder and so on.

 

To trouble shoot everybody wants to replace everything, ignition switch and wires first, key, and the VATS decoder and then reprogram the computer.(don’t know why if you replace the correct parts.) Basically no troubleshooting, Just replace everything. I am not a believer in that approach as some of you may know. This seems like a lot of BS to me. There must be a better way to eliminate some of these parts but I don’t know jack (shit I don't even know jane)about these systems. Obviously that’s why I am here.

 

Any help would be appreciated. Even if you have only a slight experience with this problem I would like to hear from you. The more input I get the better I can understand the problem.

 

$$400.00 to start a car. Give me a break. :guns:

 

 

Jud

[DiscoStudd]

Here's a cheap fix you can try that won't cost you more than five bucks. You will need the following:

Soldering Iron

Wire Cutters/Strippers/Crimper

Approx. 8 inches of 16 ga. wire (speaker wire works great)

"Bullet-Style" solderless connectors

Voltmeter/Ohmmeter

Heat Shrink Tubing

 

First off, measure the resistance across the pellet in the ignition key. Go to Radio Shack and buy some resistors that match up to the resistance you measured. You can also pick up the heat shrink tubing and the "Bullet" connectors there as well. Remove the kick panel under the dash and look for an orange wire running down the steering column. Cut the wire and strip off the insulation. There will be 2 white wires inside. Strip off the insulation off of the wires running to the dash (not the ones running down the column. Install the bullet connectors on the 2 wires (use a female on one and a male on the other.) Next, cut your 16 ga. wire into 2 pieces and solder the resisters across the 2. Cover the resistors with heat shrink. Crimp on the bullet connectors.

 

Your new "resistor pack" should look like this:

 

Plug the "resistor pack" into the connectors under the dash. If the original problem was with the ignition switch, then this trick will start the car. If you still get the "security" light flashing, then it's probably the module. If this works, then leave the "resistor pack" plugged in. If not, then take the other end of the orange wire and install bullet connectors on that end and plug the 2 ends back together...

[cutlassdude96]

did you try a different key or try to clean the old one

[SleeperRed90TGp]

Thanks Kevin. That sounds easy enough. Basically bypassing the ignition switch with a resistor equal in value to the key. Just to make sure I understand. Find the orange wire which has two white wires in it. Cut the white wires and connect the resister pack between the wires that head under the dash( I assume to the module).

 

If that doesn’t work put connectors on the other ends of the wires and plug them back together returning it to stock configuration.

 

I would probably leave the resistor in even if it didn’t work and then investigate a module. I was quoted $200.00 to replace the IS from a lock smith. Wonder what the stealership would charge?

 

cutlassdude96 I will try what you suggested.

 

Thanks guys. It will be a couple days before I can try these fixes. I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

Jud

[DiscoStudd]

You're welcome! You've got it nailed. The orange wire's outer insulation is kinda rubbery and molded to the 2 white wires inside. It's the only orange wire running down the column, btw. Just be sure you don't tamper with the wires wrapped in a yellow harness tape, as they are for the airbag...

 

$200 to replace the damn switch?!? I bought a complete boneyard steering column for my Regal for $59. I tore my old one apart to put the switches and lock cylinder in the new one. It wasn't too difficult to replace the lock cyl. at all. I woulda saved the lock cyl. from the new column, but I didn't feel like going to the stealership to have a new key cut for that switch with my car's pellet, so I threw it out along with my old column.

 

Tearing the column apart is time consuming, and this trick will rule out whether the ignition switch/lock cylinder is bad without messing with the airbags (not to mention not having to use a steering wheel puller and lock plate compressor...)