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FAILED Emissions Test:(


gmrulz4u

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Here were the readings...and I had just f'n spent money on a brand-new O2 Sensor before going!!!!

 

40 km/h

HC ppm = 69(Limit), 68(Mine) = PASS

CO% = 0.38(Limit), 0.04(Mine) = PASS

NO ppm = 777(Limit), 621(Mine) = PASS

 

Curb Idle

HC ppm = 200(Limit), 221(Mine) = FAIL

CO% = 1.0(Limit), 0.63(Mine) = PASS

 

So even though I passed almost everything, the guy still said I am high in a lot of areas. He said the NO ppm at 40 km/h should be like 300, not 621. And I obviously just barely passed the HC ppm for 40 km/h as well.

 

I asked what it could be and he said the usual list of 20 things...and said they would have to do a diagnosis(of course!).

 

So far I know that it's not my IAC, EGR Valve, Air Filter or O2 Sensor.

 

Anyone with some feedback?

 

THANKS!:)

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change your plugs and your oil, run some top engine clean thru and take it back. it will pass. also make sure it is completely warmed up. do u have a stock thermo in it

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I failed my first one since i bought the car :oops: kinda embarassing. My cat was clogged to hell. also a bad fuel injector. took it back and passes with ease!

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Hey dude what kinda place was it at?

 

If it is a shithole, pass the guy 20 bucks for a pass. I have a buddy at Jiffy Lube who every time a cool guy with a cool car fails, he says "hey bro, pass me 10 or 20 and you'll pass." That is how he makes my car pass. They take the test with another car, like in for an oil change, and tell the computer it was my car. Works liek a charm!

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gmrulz4u, does your car idle high when you first start it?

 

All cars do, it's called choke, and in fuel injected terms it is the IAC letting more air through in order to prevent stalling.

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gmrulz4u, does your car idle high when you first start it?

 

All cars do, it's called choke, and in fuel injected terms it is the IAC letting more air through in order to prevent stalling.

 

I should have said "does your car have an unusually high idle" and left out the "first start it" part to make that a bit clearer. After stating the above, I was going to also state that if this high idle condition is present that he should suspect a vacuum leak which in turn will richen the fuel mixture(which will cause a higher then normal HC reading @ idle like he's experiencing). Other things to check would be an ignition related components that can be weakened/faulty and not igniting the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder properly(think plugs, wires, coils).

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A vacuum leak, like a line unhooked to the plenum, will cause a high idle all of the time, not just when you start it. Unhook your brake lien and start your car, it will idle around 2500rpm. Also a vacuum line will not cause you to richen out on a MAP car. The map sensor reads the extra air, adds more gas to made the fual/air mixture correct. Picture a vacuum leak as a performance gain that has adverse effects.

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Perhaps another clue as to what is wrong:

 

Tonight I was waiting in the Wendy's drive-thru...idling in Drive...I noticed that my engine vacuum lower than normal at 13" hg(when it's normally 15-16" hg)...so I put it in Neutral to take load off the engine and see if it would go to what it normally does in Neutral, 17" hg, but it only went to 15" hg.

 

Anyways...I'm thinking "whatever"!...then suddenly I hear the engine kind of rev by-itself...I look down and now the vacuum gauge is showing a normal 17" hg!!?? Then...slowly the vacuum dropped on it's own back down to 15" hg again...and once again, it just revved by-itself and the vacuum returned to normal again!??

 

I had to keep moving at this point so I couldn't keep idling to see if it would do it again...

 

So somehow the engine was smoothing-out on it's own...and when it would do this I could hear it REV up on it's own...

 

I was under the impression that the ONLY thing that can control RPM besides the throttle/gas pedal is the IAC. But I already did a completel cleaning of the throttle body, IAC and all passeges the day before my emissions test...and the IAC resistance checked-out fine at 60 ohms for each terminal set. After doing the complete TB and IAC cleaning, plus an idle-relearn, nothing was different than from before...

 

Just thought I would mention this...the more information/clues you guys have the better and easier it is to help!:)

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Perhaps another clue as to what is wrong:

 

Tonight I was waiting in the Wendy's drive-thru...idling in Drive...I noticed that my engine vacuum lower than normal at 13" hg(when it's normally 15-16" hg)...so I put it in Neutral to take load off the engine and see if it would go to what it normally does in Neutral, 17" hg, but it only went to 15" hg.

 

Anyways...I'm thinking "whatever"!...then suddenly I hear the engine kind of rev by-itself...I look down and now the vacuum gauge is showing a normal 17" hg!!?? Then...slowly the vacuum dropped on it's own back down to 15" hg again...and once again, it just revved by-itself and the vacuum returned to normal again!??

 

I had to keep moving at this point so I couldn't keep idling to see if it would do it again...

 

So somehow the engine was smoothing-out on it's own...and when it would do this I could hear it REV up on it's own...

 

I was under the impression that the ONLY thing that can control RPM besides the throttle/gas pedal is the IAC. But I already did a completel cleaning of the throttle body, IAC and all passeges the day before my emissions test...and the IAC resistance checked-out fine at 60 ohms for each terminal set. After doing the complete TB and IAC cleaning, plus an idle-relearn, nothing was different than from before...

 

Just thought I would mention this...the more information/clues you guys have the better and easier it is to help!:)

 

Did you happen to measure the pintle on the IAC to see if it was in spec(no longer then 1 and 1/8 inches long)?

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Did you happen to measure the pintle on the IAC to see if it was in spec(no longer then 1 and 1/8 inches long)?

 

Yeah I did and it was at the perfect length of 1 and 1/8 inches long...

 

:)

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