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1992 Cutlass Supreme S electrical troubles (4 door)


JBC1701

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What a nightmare!

To anyone with a detailed wiring diagram for this car......help!

Was installing a remote starter, and hooking up the door locks. When hooking up the LOCK function, I connected to the large tan wire in the driver's side kick panel instead of the small blue one. I pressed the lock button on the remote and they locked. ONCE! Now, the rest of the doors lock, but the driver's door will not. They will all unlock!

There is a red/black wire in the main harness under the steering column that I was using for constant 12v to power the relays. It no longer has a constant 12v. No power at all! I checked all the fuses and breakers, and they all test ok. No wiring diagram I've looked at references this wire! It is a red/black wire coming out of the main harness. There is no red/black wire going into the harness. I can't trace back the path of the wires without removing the dash.

To make matters worse, with no power to this wire, the car will not start (it does crank, but i can't hear the fuel pump engage!), the base digital dash does not work, the climate control system and the radio also no longer function!

Where OH! where does this wire get it's 12v source? I've been working on this for 3 days and I'm losing my mind!

Please help!

JBC1701

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There is no red/blk wire in the C202. Not stock, anyway. There is a PNK/BLK wire in hole E12 which is a fused feed to the multi-function lever, something that definetly does NOT** (forgot a word) have constant 12v.. and that wire only exists with cruise control.

 

The only wire labeled as being only on the male side and not the female should be a yellow wire in A7 which should be the main fused feed to the connector.

 

You're probably shorting something and it's constantly tripping a breaker. Rewire it into the RIGHT wire (small light blue one vs tan one). The tan one comes OUT of the lcok relay, the LT BLU one goes IN!

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Thanks for replying!

The remote is wired correctly (now!). The short still exists. When 12v is fed to this wire from another source, there is a clicking sound coming from the doors (I think it's coming from the seat belts <door mounted>), and the dash, radio & climate controls work. And, the car starts! Although, the fasten seat belts light on the dash stays lit!

The red/black wire comes from the main harness and is fed into the steering column along with the ignition wires. On the side of the harness facing the fuse panel (glove box), the only corresponding wire is a solid red one. It also reads dead.

Also, the car does, indeed have cruise.

I found a schematic (sort of!) from Autozone. The only red/black wire that is listed feeds the 3 cooling fan relays.

This is extremely frustrating!

Any help would be appreciated!

JBC1701

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Red wires in the C202 should be as follows:

 

C1 Red B+ Feed From RS (underhood) Electrical Center to Ignition Switch/Fuse Block

D2 Red B+ Feed From RS Electrical Center to Ignition Switch/Fuse Block/Component Center

D5 Red B+ Feed to Ignition Switch

 

 

I don't know what B+ means.

 

The clicking from the doors is the seatbelt solenoids. I here it quietly a few seconds after I close either of my front doors. The problem has to either be C1 or D2, I don't know where C1 plugs into the fuse block but D2 also plugs into it as well as the component center. Do your windows work? And do your locks work from the buttons inside the car?

 

D2 is not the problem, it splices before the ignition and goes straight to the CTSY fuse. If your interior lights, cig lighter, etc still have power, this definetly isn't the problem.

 

D5 runs through the ignition to the wiper fuse, radio fuse, turn fuse, indic fuse, and injectors and such.

 

C1 splices before the ignition to the ELEC fuse with in turn goes to your radio, seatbelts, heater/ac, cluster, and the front door latch switches.

 

Symtops that you're telling me seem to include D5 AND C1..

 

edit: I found a RED/BLK. It comes from C1 then goes to the ignition.

 

If this wire's not getting power, check all 30 amp fuses in the underhood fuse block. If you're looking at the car head on it's the one on the left. The book say's it comes from "Fusible Element K 30 AMP" but I don't know what a Fusible Element is compared to an actual fuse.

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Yes, the windows work. The lock buttons work for all doors except the driver's side front. The unlock buttons work for all doors.

Are there any fusible links between C1 and ignition?

Have to work in the morning. Will check site for responses tomorrow evening.

Thanks for your help!

JBC1701

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As for the driver lock not working.. remember to reconnect the tan wire you cut? From saying that it unlocks but won't lock sounds like you forgot to reconnect the wire but the end coming from the lock is grounded some how.. maybe just resting on a bare piece of metal, who knows. Check the connection you had to remake there.

 

C1 splices before the ignition but there's no fusible links.

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The tan wire was never cut. I bared off a piece of the insulation, and connected the remote module lock wire to it. It was only after I studied some schematics that I realized that I had connected to the wrong wire. I then reconnected the module lock wire to the correct blue wire and taped up the exposed tan wire.

:shock: that's a lot of wires! whew!

Is there a web link that has some kind of schematic breakdown of the C1 wire? Or perhaps a trace of the main harness?

Thanks!

JBC1701

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