R Dubya Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 I started it up today after I reinstalled the fuel tank and filter and antifreeze.. all I have left to do is bleed the brakes and it's road worthy... or so I thought. So I changed the oil just before I started it to make sure that the top end was ok and had plenty of lubrication, but there is a strange knocking sound coming from the top end of the motor. From what I was told it's not all that unusual for a lifter to get stuck after sitting for long periods of time so I thought nothing of it.. I let it idle for a good 20 mins and it is still doing it. There is no BOV on the car and I don't really have a clear recollection of what the turbo sounds like without it.. but I'm 99% sure it's not misfiring, but it's not breathing right. At idle it sounds great.. new Jeff M xover and TG160 chip, new plugs R42LTS and Delco Wires, PCV valve, and I replaced the injectors with one's from Chris A that were flowed and cleaned. I have 2 quick video clips from right over the engine that you can hear the sound I am talking of.. I don't know for sure what the sound is and was hoping someone here may be able to help me diagnose it for sure. It sounds top end to me, possibly from under the rear valve cover, but I'm not sure. If someone can host a quick video for me so someone could listen I would appreciate it. Thanks. Hopefully someone could verify what's sticking or malfunctioning.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 17, 2004 Report Share Posted June 17, 2004 First off, sounds like good thinking and good efforts giving your girl a chance, few more caresses and she will purrrrr. If its a single tapping/rasping then lifter is a good chance, I believe they still sell Rislone, good stuff for cleaning up sticking lifters and such, might take some running to work its way around and un-stick the lifter, and you know enough to not rev it at all till things start to quiet down, just normal driving for now. After it quiets, might be good to change the filter (gunk filled from getting cleaned) but leave the Rislone treated oil in there for a little while longer. Might try a 0-30 or 0-40 sythetic oil, excellent shear strength for a very light oil, that will get around things better getting your cleaned out some more. The Rislone is a solvent of a sort, with a strong additive package, always worked for me. There might be a remote chance of a lifter bore in the block being elongated, not that common for the 60 degree but has been heard of. Look into the oil fill hole to check the oil buildup under the fill cap, lots of hardened gunk then the oil changes have been poor and good reason things are sticking, white moisture is coolant leaking if you are good and run the engine long enough for condensation to not be an issue. I always wipe the inside of the cap clean, then use it from then on to judge the condition of things in the engine oiling system. Good luck, sounds like you are taking your time and doing the right things, which will always serve you in the end! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2004 Thanks Jeff. The oil looked surprisingly clean for being 3 years old. I will go with an engine treatment before I go taking it back apart again. Needless to say I'm disappointed but.. I know it will be worth it. I wasn't revving hard to get it unstuck but holding steady rpm's up to 3k in hopes it would jump loose. I will go with your recommendation here Jeff. This is save to drive this way as long as I'm not to rough on it? What would be an expected time for it to come loose? How else could I verify what is causing this without tearing it apart? Previous owner Richard Dunn sold this car because of driveability issues. The thing idles beautifully and no stalls or surges as of yet. I'm impressed with the quality of this car and can't wait to drive it.. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 17, 2004 Report Share Posted June 17, 2004 Do you know/ever heard it run before, meaning it did not clank before you got it? I would hold on too many rpms, let the juice do its job, keep it as low as you can, being slow like most traffic, you can be below 3,000 rpm easy and still keep up with traffic, just drive like you got some diesel semi for now, attitude works too, yea I am bad, soon I might show you Last car I knew that had this got quieter in a few weeks, soon as that happens you know you are on the right track. Another way to check somewhat is to get a long screw driver and put your ear on the handle and the other end on engine parts, actually I think everyone should do this for fun, do the injector rail, fuel lines, rocker cover, alternator, heads (not too close to the spark plugs/wire ends), fun to hear all the noise separately, but for you might allow you to localize the noise, though the lifters are in the middle of the block, still can eliminate other noises as not the cause. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2004 Well I went back to the car today and toyed around with the brakes.. bled the master cylinder and eliminated the damn red brake light due to low fluid, yellow anti-lock still on steady because of no brake light switch, I couldn't get it to click in place! I'll get myself a new one tomorrow.. Drained the Pennzoil 10-30 that was dropped in yesterday.. man was it black for just a half hours worth of running. I got Mobil 1 0-40 oil and a quart of Rislone. Let me say this. It got worse before it got better. Not even 5-10 minutes of idling and it was no longer an intermittent tap tap tap but a steady tick, which lasted for all of 2 minutes, and all of a sudden, the engine dropped rpm's, compensated for being able to breathe again and the tick was gone. Poof! Sounds just like it should.. I took it out for an uninsured and unregistered ride (I won't tell if you don't). It's still a little choppy under load, it's not missing or off timing, but vibrates slightly, which I think will disappear with a nice cruise sometime this weekend. Thanks for the tip Jeff, you're the king. Looks like I'm on the right track, but I'm sure it's not over with this thing. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Well I went back to the car today and toyed around with the brakes.. bled the master cylinder and eliminated the damn red brake light due to low fluid, yellow anti-lock still on steady because of no brake light switch, I couldn't get it to click in place! I'll get myself a new one tomorrow.. Drained the Pennzoil 10-30 that was dropped in yesterday.. man was it black for just a half hours worth of running. I got Mobil 1 0-40 oil and a quart of Rislone. Let me say this. It got worse before it got better. Not even 5-10 minutes of idling and it was no longer an intermittent tap tap tap but a steady tick, which lasted for all of 2 minutes, and all of a sudden, the engine dropped rpm's, compensated for being able to breathe again and the tick was gone. Poof! Sounds just like it should.. I took it out for an uninsured and unregistered ride (I won't tell if you don't). It's still a little choppy under load, it's not missing or off timing, but vibrates slightly, which I think will disappear with a nice cruise sometime this weekend. Thanks for the tip Jeff, you're the king. Looks like I'm on the right track, but I'm sure it's not over with this thing. Thanks again. Ahhh, glad to help, and be successful for you, rewarding to hear back as well!! I would change the oil filter again as there is probably more black gunk that is going to work its way out and you want it out of the oil! Might take a while before the injectors are happy (idle and make power good), Chevron Techron Concentrate at about $10 a bottle is great stuff, few tanks and old injectors will clean up nicely, and bonus is the intake valve backside (sucks up fuel/restricts air flow!!) will be cleaned of buildup, as will the combustion chamber (this will lower your ORI/Octane Requirement Increase), alllllll good!!! Yea the brake switch is fun, going to be doing it in a week, I believe last one I did I just dropped the steering column to get much better access, and took out the driver’s seat since its only 4 little screws, 4 torx bolts and some connectors, then laying on your back under the dash IS comfortable!! Don’t forget to re-set the new switch, push the brake pedal all the way down, use coat hanger/hooked to pull down on the small metal tab, should hear things ratchet into place, test brake lights on and off proper, and be done with this little item. Good luck. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Hey I got that switch installed yesterday.. the one I had would not set itself so the lights would not go off.. but I picked one up from GM and installed it myself yesterday afternoon. So all is well as of right now, the clink and tick sounds has gone away, although there is still something wrong with the car. It idles well, doesn't sound like it's missing, and when you rev it sounds proper, just like my 1st TGP does. However when I engage the tranny and hit the gas, it rumbles and seems to be struggling under load. I have gotten no SES codes at all, and I swapped the O2 sensor with one I know is good. No smoke to speak of from the tailpipes, everything is in order. I'm thinking possibly the TPS switch so I'm going to go play with it now, possibly pull the ICM and test that, and eventually get a timing light to check my coils. Keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 ICM failed the test at Advance.. hopefully I can have this rolling strong on Tuesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Jeff- I pulled the ICM tested it and it failed, proceeded to change this out with a new GP Sorenson part and it is still doing the rough acceleration and I swear I can hear the wastegate opening under throttle. I am not driving it hard, the lifter has stopped its noise, but I am thinking that there is something else mechanically wrong here. I changed out the ECM with my other TGP's and that wasn't it, I took off the wastegate actuator but didn't run it with the alternate from the other TGP. When this thing cools off I am going to take it for a run with the replacement and see if that does the trick with this boost issue. It accelerates hard, stalls when slowing down, and just doesn't feel like my other one. I just $90 on this ICM and I'm beginning to get frustrated here. Any tips on diagnosis here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Ahh too soon to be frustrated . If you found the Ignition Control Module bad then good that is done now! Other than that go through everything comparing to your other TGP as far as hose routing and loose intake/turbo hoses (!!!) I would do the big thing and check the plugs, these tell you soooo much about how the engine is running, especially if you find one that is different from the rest, this will lead to the problem area where you can check for a good spark (coils are all that is left), compression or take a look at injectors even if good….as with any part, can still have good or new parts be bad. I know Chris does good work and is honest and trustworthy but you might still need to check the injectors just in case, unless you or he ohmed them before installing them??? Leave nothing to chance, even check the battery volts as low volts will kill power, and make the idle high. Could be a bad ECM water temp sensor making it thinks it cold/running things too rich, but again, plugs will tell you this though better to run a scan tool on it, and check all the readings to your other good running TGP. I have been reading scan tools on these cars for so long it scary, I can find things right away, had a local owner who had some driveability problems, check the readings and found at idle if we revved the engine, the intake air temps shot up to nearly 250 degrees, WTF!!...found the EGR was leaking, and was not easy to clean so suggested he replace it, never did he is 16 and has no time for working on his car (so he calls me, great!). So run a scan, make sure the MAP reads proper, never know someone might have swapped in a 1 bar sensor, shit like this that can bite you in the butt so never assume, clean out the mosquitoes in your work area, grab a beer (sometimes it’s the simple things that are a problem so beer helps you think simple and reduces the stress :-), stare at the engine and look for anything out of place, you should be able to know everything in there and when something is wrong, it will stand out (shoot me a big high resolution pic of your engine bay, I have troubleshot pretty good this way in the past!), compare to your other TGP, swap more parts since you are lucky to have a good running spare…….ah, another thought (no beer helping me yet ), a plugged cat will restrict high rpms in an engine, could be the problem too, good cause is from the typical dead crossover pipe life it "had", others are the bad ICM and the ticking, all causing bad combustion and loading up the cat!!! Also spin the turbo by hand, make sure it does not hand or scrape the sides when you lift and turn the compressor wheel, shit like this, just pick away at it and as you learn more about the workings, you may just find the problem, or some others yet to come, that may piss you off later, or not !! Keep up the great detailed/fast replies!!! Good Luck, we will get there! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 I can still swear that when under boost, I hear a flutter sound, as I accelerate, and when it hits higher RPM's, it sort of goes away and starts to scream like I know it should!!! I will wait until it cools and then we will see what the front 3 plugs look like. I have changed the boost controller now, checked the vacuum lines, and I am still planning on taking off the acuator to see if that's the problem, it really sounds as though it is something related to the turbo, I'm thinking that I may take it up the road and get a sound clip of whats happening here, I will also take a pic so you can see what I'm working with here. I appreciate the replies Jeff... I will send something your way in the next hour or so hopefully. I'll look back on the MAP sensor vac lines also and see if they can tell me something.. compressor feels fine, little play, not any more than my other TGP with the strong 160K engine but no 3rd and 4th gear. I also run a BOV on that car so I could be thinking it supposed to sound just like the other but not.. it still does shake quite a bit during acceleration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Ok. I pulled the ICM back off and went and had it tested, it failed, so I got a new one. I sat back and had a beer, thought about it, and then read a post by Adam S. dealing with fueling issues with his TGP. When I drive this car, it does not want to accelerate like the other at low RPM's so I'm thinking I am going to swap out the MAP sensor when I get the ICM hooked back in. I'm hoping that this is the problem, because the car has quit on me two or three times when slowing down to turn. It seems that this is logical because the wastegate sounds like it's opening, and relieving boost when it shouldn't. I will stick with the current actuator and try that tomorrow morning and then we will see where that gets me. I'm running out of options here.. I pulled the front 3 plugs and checked them, none were wet, no real discoloration to speak of, and as soon as I get it registered I'm going to have the cat checked, most likely gut it anyway because NY allows that on vehicles born before 1993. The "other" TGP is gutted and it sounds much better anyway.. given that this thing was driven for years with a cracked xover and most likely bad o2 sensor and a faulty injector I'm sure it couldn't hurt. Thanks again Jeff, I'll update this tomorrow after I take it out for another spin.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 Ok, changed the MAP sensor out with a known good one, still acclerates rough and does not sound like the other TGP when accelerating, still like it's missing under load or the wastegate is opening. I've pulled off the plenum (again!!) and I am going to test the injectors (again), making sure that these are within specs. I'm not too familiar with OHM's so I'm not exactly sure that I did it correct the first time. Any recommendations here? The ICM I know is good, and when Advance OHM'ed the coils they were all within specs as far as resistance goes. I'm obviously out of options here, and I don't know what scan tool to use, where to get one, or what I would be looking for. I have access to a laptop and I am willing to learn this aspect, it would be a useful tool in diagnosis in the future. If I was to get a readout that you could analyze, what exactly would I need to obtain here? EDIT: Will this ALDL cable be what I am looking for? This is for datalogging, something I found on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7906421759&category=33598&sspagename=WDVW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted June 22, 2004 Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 When you OHM the injectors you can do it one of two ways...Jeff M's way (never did it that way so I can not step you through it...but sounds easier than the way I am going to say! ) or the long way! :shock: Remove all that is in your way to get the upper intake plenum off. One at a time remove the wire connector to the top of the injector. With the connector off you will see two spade connectors on the top of the injector. With a digital (more accurate readings) volt meter you will put the black lead on one spade connector and the red wire on the other spade connector. Do not let the probes touch each other as you will get bad readings. Do not allow your fingers to touch the probes as you will read your bodies resistance not the injectors. With both leads seperate from each other and your fingers up on the protective "handles" of the probes...read the resistance between the two spade connectors of one injector. You should see between 11 and 12 Ohms of resistance. Lower than 10...shorted or getting ready to short...bad injector. ps...make sure you have your meter to scale automatically...or set to the 100's scale... 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 I had done this already before I installed the injectors.. I already have removed the plenum again to access them. I'm still not sure if I set the meter to the correct setting on the dial, but I will get access to it again, and a friend of mine has a scan tool that we will be using on Thursday so I will ohm them again before I run the tool. Thanks Kenny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 22, 2004 Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 (looks like others are too fast for me ) I should stick this on my web site. To get an ohm/resistance reading of the injectors without all the work of yanking off the upper intake etc, take off the black plastic cover over the ECM area, look towards the front of the car in that area/next to a black box sticking in the way, find two 10 pin connectors, one gray and one black, separate open the black connector. On the Female Black Connector/coming from the engine use the probes of your ohm meter to probe readings from upper most left to lower most right, write this reading down, now ohm the other 2 wires; upper most right to lower most left, write down this reading. The wires you are testing are colored Black with a Pink stripe, and solid Light Blue, and Pink with a Black stripe and Light Green. With the ohm reading of a good injector at 12.0 to 12.2 and since you are taking an ohm/resistance reading of three injectors at a time, the reading for a good set of three injectors will be 4 ohms (12+12+12 = 36 divide by 3 divided by 3 again = 4 ohms). To get an idea, if one injector (or more) is low (as they get over time), lets say you have one 12 ohm injector, an 8 ohm and a 6 ohm (getting pretty bad) your numbers would be 12+8+6= 26 divide by 3 divided by 3 again = 2.8 ohms, worth going in there to replace them all or you can wait and soon the others will go bad and you can go back in again later. How bad is bad???...well if one injector is 10 ohms or less time to get it done, the reading for just one at 10 ohms would show up as 3.77 ohms when reading the pins of a bank of three as stated above. Now, older Ohm Meters can be off a little, so don’t make or break your decision on tenths of an ohm, Radio Shack has great/accurate for our needs $15 to $25 Digital Meters that do Ohms, Volts AC and DC and much more, small enough to stick in your pocket, one of the best/cheapest tools you can get, use it! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fatguy Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Hi all, I've been dropping in periodically and find this thread disturbing. Have you performed a compression test? I had a stuck lifter and it didn't make any noise. Upon a compression test, one cylinder had no compression. Do this before you put the intake back together. It makes it easier to get the lifters out if you are already started. The other thing, is to take the valve covers off and observe (possibly even measure) each valve closing. Even a small amount of stick can reak major havoc. My injectors were so bad that if I started it with all valves tight, no compression on #2. Loosen the rockers to just finger tight and no torquing on the nuts, then full compression. The deal is, that I took the intake off to fix a leak and when I retorqued the rocker nuts, it compressed the spring, and opened the valve when it was supposed to be closed. I know it sounds dumb, but my car is the epidimy of dumb things to happen huh Jeff, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 I haven't done the compression test yet, I don't really have an excuse why I haven't, I just hadn't gotten around to it, maybe I'm just delaying the inevitable and trying to avoid the issue all together. I have the car most of the way down to the lower intake now, and if these injectors ohm out correctly this time, I am left with no other real option but to start exploring. I see that you wrote "the injectors were so bad, that when I started it with all valves tight, no compression on number 2." Did you mean lifters? You'll have to forgive me for throwing up a flag, this is the first time I will be dabbling below the lower intake. I'm confused. With the compression tester in the head, how do I get a reading from the guage? It seems as though it isn't breathing right and I just know with my luck and the way things have been going, that this is what's going to be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fatguy Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 Sorry about the incorrect statement about the injectors and lifters. What I ment was that the lifters were stuck so bad that when I torqued the rocker nut it opened the valves. I know this is plural because I also incorrectly stated that I had a stuck lifter. It was in fact BOTH intake and exhaust stuck on the same cylinder. GM replacements were only $15 or something like that. To do a compression test, pull the ecm fuse so the car won't start and remove ONE spark plug. (usually cyl 1) Then screw the fitting into the spark plug hole. Have someone else turn the engine over while you note the cylinder pressure measured on the gage. I was taught to let it go through a couple of compression cycles like 2 or 3. Write down the number from the gage. Remove the tester and reinstall spark plug. Repeat for the remaining cylinders. The back ones are a SOB to do a test on with the whole engine together, but with it apart, it is cake. What you are looking for is even compression across all the cylinders. My pressure reading is always about 130-140. A low reading is an indicator that there is not as much air in that cylinder at spark ignition, so there is something wrong. NOT necessarily a stuck lifter, but could be an intake leak, head gasket, etc. With the engine torn down that far, removing the valve covers should be simple. You could do this and have someone turn the engine over while you watch each spring. Make sure all the springs move the same amount. If not, there is a problem. I've fought my car on lots of issues and have probably seen most of them. TRUST ME, when its right, there are few things as much fun to drive. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 Update: Today I did a compression test because of my still recurring problems.. I was sure the front 3 cylinders were ok, but tested anyway, and got a max pressure of 180 on 2,4,6, went to the back and tested 1,3, and then number 5. 1 and 3 were steady, totally even with all other cylinders, but number 5 was only building 30-36 maximum, so therein lies the problem. The plug was soaked in gasoline, so I moved the throttle cables out of the way as far as they would go, and proceeded to remove the rear valve cover. With the ecm fuse out, valve cover off, my helper turned the key so I could watch the valve movement and see what was happening. As I looked closer, I saw one of the valves had completely lost it's rocker arm. Valve #5 (second one in from the drivers side). Valve 6 would not move either, I am not sure if this is because of the other not working, I don't know, anyone have input on this? So I definetely need to repair that rocker, I am not exactly sure of what I should be doing here. I have a service manual that will be helpful, and from what I understand, the 3.1 has a common occurrence of this happening. I suppose that this has been an issue for some time, with all of the driveability issues the PO had. The car idles beautifully, even with no #5, so I am guessing that under load this is what cause hard starts, stalls and all around crappiness. Should I be concerned with the valves at this point? Will I need to remove the rear head to fix this problem once and for all? What is the best way to see if the valves are even going to move given they've sat for 3 years, most likely been open for longer? If I was to pry on the valve to see if it moves, or use some other method, will replacing just that rocker fix my issues? I want and will do this the right way the first time, because something isn't worth doing if it's not done right the first time, I'm just looking for some advice, as this is the farthest I have ever been involved with either of my TGP engines. Thanks a lot for reading this novel and all advice is welcomed here. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted June 24, 2004 Report Share Posted June 24, 2004 My suggestion would be to pull the upper and lower intake plenums and see what your lifters are doing. Now you say it lost the rocker...like it came off the stud or it just isn't moving? At this point I think it is inevitable that you will need to pull the plenums off to see if your pushrod is bent...collapsed lifter...or the worst case scenario you have lost lobes from your cam... 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2004 Son of a BITCH! I did all that you just said today, removed both intakes, worked around my finances, got myself a intake gasket set and set to work.. Pulled the rear valve cover and grabbed my magnetic tool and pulled the exhaust pushrod, and it looked fine. Sooo... reached back, pulled the intake pushrod on cylinder five, I'm not kidding you when I say that bastard was bent into an L. I have pics of it, I will post this when I get the time, don't have time to unload the camera right now, hopefully the woman will rub my back and relieve some stress . When I say bent, I mean BENT. Hole in the middle of the pushrod bent. So I replaced the pushrods in that cylinder, the lifters in that cylinder, and then proceeded to check torque on all of the rocker arms and worked my way back out. FINALLY got it put back together this evening around 9, started the bastard up and let it idle, still didn't sound any better.. F*** ME! It seems to be A LOT less rough in acceleration, but I will check compression one more time to make sure it's still screwed, and go from there, but it looks like I will be doing this again in the next few weeks, only this time the heads are coming off!! and the valves and springs and rockers and cam will be replaced, so help me God this car will run if it's the last thing that I EVER DO! Anyway, you may possibly have picked up a hint of FRUSTRATION in my voice, but all in all it was a good experience, and despite the fact that I wasted all this money on parts, and took the cheaters way out without pulling the heads and cam and making sure this thing would run, I took a chance. Didn't I say I wanted to do this right the first time?? :oops: Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate the help and advice as always. I'll post these pics when I can, I might not even be able to run this car this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fatguy Posted June 29, 2004 Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 I hope you've calmed yourself by now. I know it seems bad, but it will be better soon enough. A couple of questions, did you check to make sure the lifters were moving like they were supposed to? I mean look at the lifters when the engine was turning over. This is a check to make sure the cam is ok. As far as the heads go.....usually when a pushrod gets bent that badly, something hard hit something hard REALLY hard. I don't want to sound too negative here, just expressing my experiences. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 29, 2004 Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 I hope you've calmed yourself by now. I know it seems bad, but it will be better soon enough. A couple of questions, did you check to make sure the lifters were moving like they were supposed to? I mean look at the lifters when the engine was turning over. This is a check to make sure the cam is ok. As far as the heads go.....usually when a pushrod gets bent that badly, something hard hit something hard REALLY hard. I don't want to sound too negative here, just expressing my experiences. good luck Hey Corey, how goes it, well I hope, good words of wisdom here, hoping too he gets some better results/luck, that virgin TGP is worth it, I would be all over her Sorry to say he started up another thread sorta on this topic it's "cam upgrades" now :? . Still waiting to hear back, hope he read the last posts before he got too far!!! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted June 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Sorry to expand this never ending story to another thread.. I thought that I could get some more insight on possible damage to this engine's components.. But apparently that thread solved the cam confusion issue so it's not a total waste.. BTW- I am Ryan from the TGP forum Jeff.. I really need to make myself a signature here and there.. I haven't touched the car in a few days, I've been working a lot, (stupid restaurant business) and I haven't had enough time to sleep let alone stress on this car, but the next few days I will hopefully find some time. I am going to do another compression test and remove the valve cover again and find out if that new pushrod is also bent, or if the rocker jumped off the valve again, and I will go from there. I got a chance to read the "cam upgrades" quickly last night but no real time to pay close attention to detail.. a transformer for NYSEG BLEW UP about 5 houses from me and caused a major power failure. Live power lines jumping around on the ground and blue light explosions that looked more like lightning that lit up the whole block. What a night. Will update when I find out about that pushrod and rocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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