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Posted

ABS was pre 93.

I have ABS in my 1992 International but i dont have airbags (thank god)

Posted

Damn, I am glad my issue was the $3 flasher that only took 2 minutes to fix....

Posted
Damn, I am glad my issue was the $3 flasher that only took 2 minutes to fix....

 

yes ur very lucky!! mine will prolly take half a day

Posted

Hey,

I was just about to post this same topic for my 89 gp se. My right works if I hold it up really hard the whole time, when I have the 4 ways on the front 2 lights in the bumper only light up nothing in the rear. as for the left if I pump it up and down I can get the front bumper light only to go on and off. Also how easy is it to work on on my 89 and what do i have to remove.

 

Thanks,

Justin

Posted
Hey,

I was just about to post this same topic for my 89 gp se. My right works if I hold it up really hard the whole time, when I have the 4 ways on the front 2 lights in the bumper only light up nothing in the rear. as for the left if I pump it up and down I can get the front bumper light only to go on and off. Also how easy is it to work on on my 89 and what do i have to remove.

 

Thanks,

Justin

 

I first pop out the buttons on your steering wheel (I see you have the buttons on your cardomain page)

 

Get a steering wheel puller. Pull out the clip in the center with a small screwdriver or needlenose pliers. Take the bolt out. Attach the steering wheel puller tool (note: don't put the 2 bolts in too far or it can go through and damage the little plate thing). With the puller attached, turn the center bolt until the wheel pops off. (Note: mark down the alignment of the wheel to the shaft before you remove the wheel).

 

Okay with the wheel off, you can do everything now. Pull off the little plate thing behind the wheel. Now you can try to clean the contacts, or remove the switch. Theres a bunch of torx(sp?) screws that hold the stuff together.

 

The wires from the switch run to the back of the column, so you'll probably want to remove the plastic interior piece(s) to get at it. (If you are changing the switch.)

 

Pretty simple job.

Posted
Also how easy is it to work on on my 89 and what do i have to remove.

 

Two words for you, my man: "Hayne's Manual."

 

To all you guys with 94-96 GP's and Regals, 94-97 Cutty's, 95-99 Montes, and 95-01 Luminas: Get both the Hayne's manuals for the 95-present Monte, Lumina, and Impala, and the one for the 88-present GP, Regal, Cutlass and 88-94 Lumina. I don't know why the 95-up Chevy's are in a separate publication, but the Chev manual shows the disassembly of the 94-96 W / 95-01 Lumina column, whereas the W-body manual only shows how to take apart the older (88-93) column. I know this 'cause I have both manuals.

Posted
Hey,

I was just about to post this same topic for my 89 gp se. My right works if I hold it up really hard the whole time, when I have the 4 ways on the front 2 lights in the bumper only light up nothing in the rear. as for the left if I pump it up and down I can get the front bumper light only to go on and off. Also how easy is it to work on on my 89 and what do i have to remove.

 

Thanks,

Justin

 

 

Hey man your in luck,those are real fucking easy.I just had to replace mine on my 1990 regal not to long ago because my left signal started to smoke :shock:

 

Just like the other guy said GET A STEERING WHEEL PULLER ( STUPID FUCKING AUTO TEACHER)hitting my steering wheel with a hammer :evil:

 

the hard part is getting the wires trow the colum.

 

If you weren't to far away i would help you,i have all the tools you need and would only take me 15mins.

Posted

many of us may encounter this electrical problem, because it's a cronic problem with most all 90's W's. I know for a fact from the service records I have that mine was replaced TWICE in 45,000 miles when my Nana owned the car still. I have been sure to be very delicate with it. If you slam it, or are rough with it it can break. The contacts get messed up and everything goes to hell. I saw in my service records that the Olds dealer wanted $70 for the new part back in '00 the lat time it was done. That ofcourse doesn't include labor. Good luck! :wink:

Posted
many of us may encounter this electrical problem, because it's a cronic problem with most all 90's W's.

 

Seeing as this is a huge problem, and this subject is brought up several times a month, I'd be willing to do a write-up about changing out the switch on 94-up columns. I have 4 pics of my Buick's column out of the car in various stages of disassembly, and I think I could do a fairly decent narrative. Maybe we could make it a sticky topic or have it posted to the main W-Body website? I'll make a rough draft and put it up on my site for the time being...

Posted

I just fixed mine yesterday. Easy Easy Easy. I looked at the way it was made, took it apart cleaned all the contacts and bent the 6 prongs out to get better contact. Put it all back together and.... just like new, they work perfect and all it cost was time. I suggest everyone having problems with them to try this first. Before I fixed mine they always would smoke when I hit the left one on. Now it as good as new. I love it, FREE. The best way. Also I did not use a steering wheel puller because I do not have one. So I put a bolt in one of the holes and just had to pry against it with a claw hammer. worked great.

Posted

Also just so you know I did not have to dissconect any of the wiring to the cruise switch, most of you talk about dissconecting a wire down the colum, but I did not have to do that, my way. I will post pics of how I did it if anyone wants.

Posted
Also just so you know I did not have to dissconect any of the wiring to the cruise switch, most of you talk about dissconecting a wire down the colum, but I did not have to do that, my way. I will post pics of how I did it if anyone wants.

 

FYI, the 94+ cruise switches unplug right at the wiper switch and not down the column like many older GM's did...

 

As far as pulling your wheel without a puller, just thread a couple of bolts into the bolt holes for the puller (after you remove the main nut) and keep on tightening them down until the wheel pops off. I would not recommend doing this on cars with airbags, though cause you'll destroy the airbag's clockspring...

Posted

ok just giving an update, i was gonna try and clean the contact on mine..but i couldnt find the air bag fuse, i think its in the fuse panel on the passengerside when you open the door, but i lost the cover for it..and now i dont know which fuses are for which..oh yeah mines a 95 cutlass sedan, 3100..

Posted
ok just giving an update, i was gonna try and clean the contact on mine..but i couldnt find the air bag fuse, i think its in the fuse panel on the passengerside when you open the door, but i lost the cover for it..and now i dont know which fuses are for which..oh yeah mines a 95 cutlass sedan, 3100..

 

I'm reading off of my 95 Regal's fuse panel door. Okay, if you look at the panel, there's 5 rows of 9 spots for fuses (obviously they're not all being used.)

 

They go like this:

Row 1: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Row 2: 10 thru 18

Row 3: 19 thru 27

Row 4: 28 thru 36

Row 5: 37 thru 45

 

The airbag fuse is #21 (15 amp fuse, Row 3 (middle row,) third from left.)

 

If you're only going to clean it, be sure to test it out before you put the column back together. I noticed on my Lumina's switch that the 2 parts of it were pulled apart too much to try to get it to work. You can't bend any tabs out on the switch either like you can on the 88-93's.

Posted

ok thanks, maybe ill just save up the money and replace it then, since cleaning it doesnt seem to solve the problem

Posted
Also just so you know I did not have to dissconect any of the wiring to the cruise switch, most of you talk about dissconecting a wire down the colum, but I did not have to do that, my way. I will post pics of how I did it if anyone wants.

 

FYI, the 94+ cruise switches unplug right at the wiper switch and not down the column like many older GM's did...

 

As far as pulling your wheel without a puller, just thread a couple of bolts into the bolt holes for the puller (after you remove the main nut) and keep on tightening them down until the wheel pops off. I would not recommend doing this on cars with airbags, though cause you'll destroy the airbag's clockspring...

 

Do not do this!!! If you thread the bolt down to far you will destroy the horn positive contact. Also if you have steering wheel stereo controls, they are on the same contact wheel. You will destroy those too.

Posted

update! now my cc/wipers/beams lever is stuck towards me, and wont go back.....got a lil mad at it's shennanigans. i'm expecting i gotta replace that part, or that section :oops:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Update for all of you 94-Up owners. I've made a page detailing the disassembly of the steering column for replacing the turn signal switch.

 

Check it out

Posted
update! now my cc/wipers/beams lever is stuck towards me, and wont go back.....got a lil mad at it's shennanigans. i'm expecting i gotta replace that part, or that section :oops:

 

Remove all your shit again and re-set it on the column. When I re-assembled my steering wheel, my switch got stuck out like that, too. It was bad, because I didn't notice it (middle of the day) and my highbeams were stuck on and I couldn't turn them off. :shock: Had to do it all again, and jump my car on top of that. :x

Posted
bags didn't come out till '93 I believe (same year as ABS? :confused: ). If you got the sporty looking wheel (not big and pillow like, with SRS on it) then you don't have airbags.

 

'94

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