Jump to content

High Amperage Alternator Question...


Recommended Posts

Posted

What kind, if any, do you guys with big stereos run. I have heard several different opinions about Powermasters and the "Iceberg" conversions. I would like some more input before I go out and drop 3 bills on an alternator. And yes I plan on adding a capacitor to my amp wiring soon also. I've also seen the Tech Edge Alternator Rewire Kit. It looks like that kit replaces the wire from the positive lug on the alternator to the starter. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!!

Posted

cap's do nearly nothing for your car stereo/amplifier unless you are drawing more then 300 amps thru the wire - you may want to look into a larger alternator (which you are) 150amp should work and an Optima yellow-top battery. also, the rewire of the alternator is something I will do when I replace mine on my Z-34, I will be upgrading to a 4 gauage wire from the alternator to the battery, and adding an other 4 ga ground from the battery to the block - you'd be amazed, larger ground wires can help* performance by offering a more consistant spark (but I don't know how true that is in a wasted spark system) and also more consistant readings from your grounded devices (O2 sensor, temp sensors, things like that)

 

--Dave.

Posted

Do you have an Optima in your car now? I've heard they're worthless in the winter and they don't last very long. When you say you're running a 4 ga. wire from the battery to the block, are you running a wire in addition to the battery cable, or are you replacing the battery cable itself with a 4 ga. wire? Interesting info about the cap. I probably won't be pushing more than 250 watts max when I get my sub. I guess I'll wait and see about adding one until after I put in a sub.

Posted

I've never been a big fan of a cap unless it's for a comp. I just use an extra battery and an isolator. Hell, you can buy a battery cheaper than a cap, and w/ the isolator never have to worry about the car not starting. If you want a sealed cell battery look into Orbital, it's made by (whoever makes) A/C and it's way cheaper than Optima (I have a Turbo Start outlet near me, and I can get an optima Red for $100, and an Orbital for $88) I was just using my stock alt. and until it took a shit I didn't have any problems (no dimming at all) until I bought a re-man'd unit from Adv. auto, it's junk. But they wanted my A/C one back, I wanted to rebuild it but didn't have time. So I kept it, and will rebuild it someday. :roll:

Posted

I rebuilt mine with the Iceberg 140 amp kit and has worked fine since december. Just make sure you have some way to remove the rear bearing if you do a rebuild. And good soldering skills are a must.

Posted

and the story continues......

 

my big hobby is car audio.

caps are a waste of money period. this is a general consensus of veteran car audio people.

a deep cycle battery will work better than a cap.

 

there are tons of aftermarket HO alt companies as well as the iceberg conversion kit. HO alts range from a couple hundred bux for a couple hundred amps for an OK one to 600+ for 250 amps or so for the big name ones. as with anything the big name is not always the best option or cheapest one.

personally i am taking mine into the local shop and having them rewind it to 140 (160 if they can)

i have ran 1500 watts daily for awhile with no dimming. this is real world watts not when lightning strikes watts. just need to set things up properly.

the big 3 help alot.

the big 3 are the batt to frame ground, block to frame ground, and alt to batt positive wire. it is recomended for the wire to be at least the same size as the total of the rest of the system wires.

if your main amp power wires are 4 gauge then the grounds and alt to batt should be at least the same size. if you have two amps that use 4 gauge each then adjust wire size accordingly.

be sure to use the same size wire for amp grounds as for amp positive wires.

 

Monty

Posted

I posted my question first, nah nah nah :P :P

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Anyways, thanks for the response. I know of a local shop in town here, but I'm not too sure if he'll rewind mine for 140 amps, so I was thinking about buying a Powermaster. I guess I can skip the cap then. Now, when upgrading "The Big 3," do you replace the original cables with higher gauge cabling, or do you add a second wire parallel to the original? (I mean the ground cables, as it wouldn't make sense to run a parallel wire along the alt-to-battery cable...)

 

Thanks again...

Posted

personally with the batt to frame i usually leave the factory one in place and add the upgraded wire to it as that wire is usually in good shape. be sure to remove it though and be certain of metal to metal contact free of paint and corrosion. then use a silicone spray over the top or paint it to keep it rust free.

 

for the block to frame ground i replaced the wire since it was in pretty sad shape.

 

when i do the alt to batt positive i am going to add the wire unless i cannot get both wires on the alt stud. though i should be able to just fine.

 

when i did mine last spring i already knew i was going to compete in car audio SPL competition. so i ran 2/0 welders cable to the trunk for power. upraded the batt to frame with 2/0 as well. in the trunk for power and ground i used distrobution blocks for both. 2/0 from batt came into a distro and then to fused blocks for the amps. and then the ground went to the trunk from a distro block and the amps went to that block. made for ease of install and in and out since i tried many boxes and amps last season.

 

for part of the season i ran an optima yellow top and it made a big difference from the ac delco platinum that i started with.

as with alts there are a number of batteries to choose from.

interstate makes several

optima which is a subsidiery of interstate

hawker

stinger

HO Alternators now makes batteries

hell some just use cheap walmart batteries since they are way cheaper and for most work just fine. may only get warranty out of them once though if you mention you have a big system.

 

be sure to fuse within 18" of the battery

 

holla at some of the better car audio forums for other battery options

 

Monty

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...