Stealth Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 hey, ok I have alot of questions that im sure you guys can help me with. I have a 1993 cutlass supreme 4 door 3.1 with the 4t60-e 215000kms 1. the 4t60-e is considerd 4 speed but its really only 3 separate gears plus a manual overdrive right? oh and my dad insists the ride is smoother when he drives in overdrive in the city :? 2.theres a bad clunking coming from the drivers side wheel and 5 mechanics couldnt figure out the problem, the struts are new, the balls joints are new the tie rods are all new, the upper bearing plates are new. the mechanic changed the axel and it still did it so he put the old one back in, any ideas its like a snap or a triple clunk when you turn hard????? 3. the steering is sometimes hard to turn and somtimes its very easy, the fluids fine. the mechanic also said the rack and pinion was fine. 4. the rear struts are only 18 months ald and there creaking when you slow down dut not when your driving, its NOT the back brakes 5.oh yeah and I dont think the trans fluid has ever been changed and I was told not to get it changed because it will blow the seals, how do I check the color of it to see how good it is :oops: 6.The farther right you go on the vents the warmer the air con gets??? like I mean the first vent is cold then the second vent is not as cold then warmer then warm????? wtf the heater works fine 7.He just had to get the emisions test and the nitrogin oxcide emissions are 3 times above the limit they said the intake manifold has a vaccume leak, the o2 sencer and the egr need to be replaced???? well we got a conditional pass after spening 900 FRICKEN DOLLERS gettign the exaust replaced and a fuel injector purge!! how much is that stuff to get fixed?? 8. Ive had to put 5k into this damn car in the past 2 years since we bought it, heres what has been done front and rear struts the whole rear brake system front brakes gas tank bearing plates 3 ball joints 4 tie rods the engine computer coolant leak fix the oil leak the whole exaust system was just done and its louder then before??? WHY DO WE HAVE SUCH BAD LUCK WITH CARS!!! oh and btw the power antena just broke and thepower window switch also just broke. thanks guys Quote
Stealth Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Posted June 11, 2004 oh yeah also the car pulls to the right when you accelerate hard also it pulls to the right when your driving and to keep the car straight you have to put the streeing wheel about 10 degrees to the left. hmmm also the steering wheel is mega loose Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 1. I found while driving today that my 4T60 (not-E) kicks into overdrive at around 60km/h.. city speed. Its not really that noticable but it is a bit quieter. Still with OD if you want your tranny to last only use it on the highway when it doesn't change gears rapidly. 2. I dunno 3. W-bodies can have tough steering. I find the faster I go generally the easier it is to turn. The powersteering pumps on the 2.8/3.1 engines like to crap out. You might want to try a bottle of Lucas PS treatment.. it made mine quieter. 4. Struts are a bitch. Might be your rear strut mount? 5. I'm pretty sure I was the first to drop the pan on my car, at around 250,000km. Changed the filter/gasket/fluid myself, tranny runs perfect. I didn't do a complete flush at a garage I think its kinda waste of money (others will disagree with me though). 6. Not sure. I never really paid attention to it on my car, they all seem warm. 7. intake manifold has a vaccume leak, the o2 sensor are common tuneup items for our cars, as well as the PCV and IAC. Any SES codes? 8. The car is 11 years old! The person who had it before you probably didn't have anything break on it yet.. its just bad luck. All those tie rods and balljoints I'd say you're either buying cheap brands or driving too hard! Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 hey, ok I have alot of questions that im sure you guys can help me with. I have a 1993 cutlass supreme 4 door 3.1 with the 4t60-e 215000kms 1. the 4t60-e is considerd 4 speed but its really only 3 separate gears plus a manual overdrive right? oh and my dad insists the ride is smoother when he drives in overdrive in the city :? the overdrive is automatic. put the shifter in OD 2.theres a bad clunking coming from the drivers side wheel and 5 mechanics couldnt figure out the problem, the struts are new, the balls joints are new the tie rods are all new, the upper bearing plates are new. the mechanic changed the axel and it still did it so he put the old one back in, any ideas its like a snap or a triple clunk when you turn hard????? don't know, cv joints click in turns when they're bad 3. the steering is sometimes hard to turn and somtimes its very easy, the fluids fine. the mechanic also said the rack and pinion was fine. could be a pump issue if the steering is easy sometimes, and sometimes not 4. the rear struts are only 18 months ald and there creaking when you slow down dut not when your driving, its NOT the back brakes are you sure its the struts? the rear monoleaf makes all sorts of groaning noises when it starts to sag, at least mine does 5.oh yeah and I dont think the trans fluid has ever been changed and I was told not to get it changed because it will blow the seals, how do I check the color of it to see how good it is :oops: warm up the engine, with the engine running in park, pull the trans fluid dipstick behind the engine, if the fluid is brown or smells burnt, drop the pan, put in a new filter, and refill the trans 7.He just had to get the emisions test and the nitrogin oxcide emissions are 3 times above the limit they said the intake manifold has a vaccume leak, the o2 sencer and the egr need to be replaced???? well we got a conditional pass after spening 900 FRICKEN DOLLERS gettign the exaust replaced and a fuel injector purge!! how much is that stuff to get fixed?? vacuum lines are cheap. an AC Delco O2 sensor is $50. a new egr runs $150-200 oh yeah also the car pulls to the right when you accelerate hard also it pulls to the right when your driving and to keep the car straight you have to put the streeing wheel about 10 degrees to the left. hmmm also the steering wheel is mega loose front wheel drive cars pull to the side when you accelerate, its called torque steer don't know about the steering, i'm having a similar problem myself. i've had 3 4-wheel alignments in the last 6 months and my steering wheel still isn't centered. these cars have really easy steering, if that's what you mean by loose. Quote
Stealth Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Posted June 11, 2004 ok kewl, by the steering wheel being loose I mean the damn thing can be moved from side to side what the hell is a mono leaf all there is is a big strut connected to the body and the wheel, yeah and I think your right its alot easier to turn the faster your going, oh and as for the front end I do drive hard but the roads here are fricken nastey 1 foot deep potholes and shit trust me Ottawa has the words roads you could imagine, oh and if I have to change the trans fluid it wont blow the seals or do I only change half the fluid? Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 ok kewl, by the steering wheel being loose I mean the damn thing can be moved from side to side what the hell is a mono leaf all there is is a big strut connected to the body and the wheel, yeah and I think your right its alot easier to turn the faster your going, oh and as for the front end I do drive hard but the roads here are fricken nastey 1 foot deep potholes and shit trust me Ottawa has the words roads you could imagine, oh and if I have to change the trans fluid it wont blow the seals or do I only change half the fluid? maybe your steering column is worn out or something a monoleaf is the big transverse fiberglass leaf spring that is part of our rear suspension, it across the car from each rear hub if you drop the pan, change the filter and top it off you won't damage your trans. Quote
DaveFromColorado Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 issue #2 the clunking - I'll say 99% chance it's the control arm bushings, both my w-bodies, my old L-body, and my girlfriends N-body all had the same issue and it was the control arm bushing - may want to look into that. the hard stearing could be internal to the rack, on the tortion rod not flexing enough to allow the correct ammount of fluid in, or the seals being bad and not allowing the return pressure out properly. the creeking in the rear could be associated with bushings in the back being warn/old too when going forward, put the shift lever in the OD possition - the OD gear is an automatic gear, there are a total of 5 gear ranges available in the transmission, Reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th - 4th gear putting the transmission into an overdrive condition, meaning the output of the gear is faster then the input - geared down with the internal drive chain, and the output gears engine speed will still be faster then wheel speed. dropping the pan to change the fluid should be fine, the manufacturer recomends Dextron III - but after long debate Type F will work fine, and perhapps better by not allowing the clutches to slip as much, if it's a daily driver and you're not lookin' to get too much more outta it, Dex 3 should be good. sorry if I repeated what anyone else said... --Dave Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 perhaps bad subframe bushings or rotted out bolts could play a part in the front end clunking also? Quote
DaveFromColorado Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 I don't think* the subframe bushings/bolts would do that, but still, it's always a GOOD idea to check those. --Dave. Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 11, 2004 Report Posted June 11, 2004 I don't think* the subframe bushings/bolts would do that, but still, it's always a GOOD idea to check those. --Dave. yeah, i was just throwing out ideas Quote
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