EBC Greenstuff pads (EDIT to EBC)

[Gearhead43]

when does it shake? Any Pattern to it?

[White93z34]

93CutlassSupreme, not to come down on you but it actually makes sense to spend $91 a piece on rotors the way i see it

 

$24 *2 for rear rotors = $48 + $25 for pads = $73

then

$35 *2 for front rotors = $70 + 30 for pads = $100

and you claim to change your brakes 3 times a year so...

 

$173 * 3 = $519 a year on brakes

 

if you were to spend $91 on the expensive rotors

 

$91 * 4 = $364 + $55 for pads all around = $419 for brakes/rotors that last more than a year

[90TGP]

Should have gotten in on the cross/drilled rotor group buy fathead was doing. $150 shipped for 4 rotors.

[god910]

I'm gonna get in on that buy, but I hope people that do understand that they WILL crack. I just hope they don't shatter as I'm trying to stop from 100+ MPH at the track. But hey, I can downshift. Rotors that aren't MADE w/ holes in them WILL NOT withstand the beating that they are "designed" to take. You are buying cheap ass rotors that someone drilled holes in. Some say they are "CNC Machined" Well, if you want me to shit in a box and slap a gaurentee on it, I can, I've got the time. It still doesn't change the fact that when they were produced, they didn't have holes, which means the manufacturer didn't intend ON THEM HAVING HOLES. So structural integrity is compromised. I'm buying them: A) They are cheap Sunshine gets about 1000 miles a year C) I want to test them out. See what they can take. But again, I will be removing them EVERY night after track session to take pics and witness what changes have been made. We shall see.

[Heza]

I'm gonna get in on that buy, but I hope people that do understand that they WILL crack. I just hope they don't shatter as I'm trying to stop from 100+ MPH at the track. But hey, I can downshift. Rotors that aren't MADE w/ holes in them WILL NOT withstand the beating that they are "designed" to take. You are buying cheap ass rotors that someone drilled holes in. Some say they are "CNC Machined" Well, if you want me to shit in a box and slap a gaurentee on it, I can, I've got the time. It still doesn't change the fact that when they were produced, they didn't have holes, which means the manufacturer didn't intend ON THEM HAVING HOLES. So structural integrity is compromised. I'm buying them: A) They are cheap Sunshine gets about 1000 miles a year C) I want to test them out. See what they can take. But again, I will be removing them EVERY night after track session to take pics and witness what changes have been made. We shall see.

 

actually...rotors that are drilled after the rotor is made has the best chance in cracking because they were not designed for it. however, rotors that are cast with the holes in them (Brembo, etc.) were made like that so there are no weaknesses in the rotor itself. that is why i wont buy any of the super package deals on eBay for four rotors at $150. all of those may look nice, but dont have the structural integrity of the drilled/slotted rotors that cost a lot more because they were made that way....not drilled out junk.

[BIGBULS]

I think you just repeated him

[Gearhead43]

I am using Powerstop CrossDrilled.. And I have been using them under heavy conditions.. No Cracking.... Stop on a dime.. AND you can STILL TOUCH then with your hands and they are not so hot to burn the skin off.. Ask Diggy HE KNOWS!!!! He actually touched tem after and few hard stops.

[Heza]

I think you just repeated him

 

true...woke up kind of hungover and didnt really read it correctly. eh...it happens.

[93CutlassSupreme]

93CutlassSupreme, not to come down on you but it actually makes sense to spend $91 a piece on rotors the way i see it

 

$24 *2 for rear rotors = $48 + $25 for pads = $73

then

$35 *2 for front rotors = $70 + 30 for pads = $100

and you claim to change your brakes 3 times a year so...

 

$173 * 3 = $519 a year on brakes

 

if you were to spend $91 on the expensive rotors

 

$91 * 4 = $364 + $55 for pads all around = $419 for brakes/rotors that last more than a year

 

yeah i see what you're saying, i just hope those $100 rotors are that good

 

i will consider those high grade raybestos the next time i change out brakes

[93CutlassSupreme]

when does it shake? Any Pattern to it?

 

just a slight front end vibration under braking when the brakes are hot.

 

i bought new mid grade raybestos rear rotors, but had the front bosch rotors turned by a local auto shop, maybe thats the problem. my hubs were rusted i ground off as much rust as i could, maybe the hubs and shit arn't square or something

[Heza]

93CutlassSupreme, not to come down on you but it actually makes sense to spend $91 a piece on rotors the way i see it

 

$24 *2 for rear rotors = $48 + $25 for pads = $73

then

$35 *2 for front rotors = $70 + 30 for pads = $100

and you claim to change your brakes 3 times a year so...

 

$173 * 3 = $519 a year on brakes

 

if you were to spend $91 on the expensive rotors

 

$91 * 4 = $364 + $55 for pads all around = $419 for brakes/rotors that last more than a year

 

yeah i see what you're saying, i just hope those $100 rotors are that good

 

i will consider those high grade raybestos the next time i change out brakes

 

...and ill let you know how mine turn out!

[93CutlassSupreme]

93CutlassSupreme, not to come down on you but it actually makes sense to spend $91 a piece on rotors the way i see it

 

$24 *2 for rear rotors = $48 + $25 for pads = $73

then

$35 *2 for front rotors = $70 + 30 for pads = $100

and you claim to change your brakes 3 times a year so...

 

$173 * 3 = $519 a year on brakes

 

if you were to spend $91 on the expensive rotors

 

$91 * 4 = $364 + $55 for pads all around = $419 for brakes/rotors that last more than a year

 

yeah i see what you're saying, i just hope those $100 rotors are that good

 

i will consider those high grade raybestos the next time i change out brakes

 

...and ill let you know how mine turn out!

 

8) are those rotors drilled and slotted?

[Heza]

the fronts are. Raybestos doesnt have them for the rears, but i dont really care since the fronts are primarily what stops the car. also, the only other company that makes good quality ones are KVR or EBC. the EBC slotted/dimpled are $250 for two and the KVR are about $200 for two. ill stick with the Raybestos PG Plus for the rears.

[kanwisch]

Under heavy abuse (autocrossing, track etc) the Greenstufff pads have been known to wear down pretty fast............

 

But.

 

In normal street use (even with a little abuse), they should last about as long as any other pad.

 

I'd buy Performance Frictions (and put up with the black brake dust) if I wanted to autocross the car or be abusive..........they take it better.

:withstupid: I got some good advice from brakewarehouse.com about the EBC. They're designed for light cars, and none of the w-bodies fits that description. So, I got the Z-rated pads from PF, and have loved them. Virtually no dusting, and they stop beautifully.

 

I'll also throw in about the slotted/drilled. After researching the subject extensively, I can say without a doubt the only reason to get them is for looks. If that's what you're after, fine, spend the $. Otherwise, its completely wasteful. Go with a Big Brake setup or similar if you thing for some reason you need better brakes, and be sure to upgrade your tires significantly to handle the added stopping power (after all, they're going to be the weak point).

[Heza]

Under heavy abuse (autocrossing, track etc) the Greenstufff pads have been known to wear down pretty fast............

 

But.

 

In normal street use (even with a little abuse), they should last about as long as any other pad.

 

I'd buy Performance Frictions (and put up with the black brake dust) if I wanted to autocross the car or be abusive..........they take it better.

:withstupid: I got some good advice from brakewarehouse.com about the EBC. They're designed for light cars, and none of the w-bodies fits that description. So, I got the Z-rated pads from PF, and have loved them. Virtually no dusting, and they stop beautifully.

 

I'll also throw in about the slotted/drilled. After researching the subject extensively, I can say without a doubt the only reason to get them is for looks. If that's what you're after, fine, spend the $. Otherwise, its completely wasteful. Go with a Big Brake setup or similar if you thing for some reason you need better brakes, and be sure to upgrade your tires significantly to handle the added stopping power (after all, they're going to be the weak point).

 

yes...with what you say about slotted/drilled, BUT, as i have noted in a earlier post on this subject, from a slam the brakes halt in my '96 at 100 MPH, my brakes faded when i got to 35ish MPH. i could feel the gas planing the pads away from the rotors. i dont want that...therefore i want the added gas expulsion that drilled/slotted rotors provide.

 

besides, even the '96 larger front rotors you can still barely see them behind my stock 5-spokes so i dont really care about that looks. i want the fade free benefits of drilled/slotted.

 

ive also learned that i cant really follow others' opinions so i get the product and make my own from it.

[BIGBULS]

I would be willing to bet the fade you felt was from the pad material overheating..............it would have happened whether you had slotted rotors or not.

 

Trust me.............there is a VERY minor difference in upgrading to slotted stuff.................so minor in fact, that you likely won't notice it in any way.

 

 

I think you are still best off with Performance Friction pads.........Z rated ones for the front if you REALLY think you need the extra fade resistance. That and the 96+ bigger brakes should work out to be a decent combo for fighting brake fade. Hell, just the extra rotor size helps.............more area to act as a heat sink..........

[Heza]

it felt more gaseous because it was incosistent pressure on the brake pedal. didnt have a gradual fade out or a continual fade. it varied.

 

of course...i dont really know what is on the car now...im assuming AC Delco parts for good reason.

[kanwisch]

yes...with what you say about slotted/drilled, BUT, as i have noted in a earlier post on this subject, from a slam the brakes halt in my '96 at 100 MPH, my brakes faded when i got to 35ish MPH

Well, I guess your experience disagrees with that of many racers and autocross members I discussed this with, then. Granted, they are driving cars other than w-bodies (from smaller rides like Suburus to heavier rides like f-bods), but I think the concept of using slots is really moot in today's technological environment for pads.

 

I'd suggest if you had fading problems to try even harsher pads then. Like Hawk HP+ or some of their race level pads. :2cents:

[Heza]

well...i just dropped $350 for (all Raybestos):

 

Brutestop crossdrilled/slotted front rotors

Brutestop front pads

PG Plus rear rotors

PG Plus rear pads

 

i want to try out stuff under my own experience so i am. if i learn my lesson whether it be for good or bad, so be it. i like trial and error and not too much on peoples' opinions.

 

some people may have problems when other people dont on the exact same car. judgements always vary.

[kanwisch]

some people may have problems when other people dont on the exact same car. judgements always vary.

That's certainly reasonable. So, are you going to race on them? 1/4? If either of these, I'd be interested in your take on the pads, so please share

[Heza]

some people may have problems when other people dont on the exact same car. judgements always vary.

That's certainly reasonable. So, are you going to race on them? 1/4? If either of these, I'd be interested in your take on the pads, so please share

 

i will be racing on them, but i have a few more things to accomplish with my car before i am even going to consider it. i still am hard on my brakes on the freeway though when im "weaving"