vdaily89 Posted June 5, 2004 Report Share Posted June 5, 2004 I need to put new rotors on my 94 Cutlass Supreme. The bolts holding the brake caliper bracket on take some kind of large star shaped socket it looks like. Can someone tell me exactly what size/type it is? Thanks, Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 5, 2004 Report Share Posted June 5, 2004 Torx T60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan94Z34 Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 The T60 bit usually requires a 1/2" wrench. I dont have any 1/2" stuff, so I had to buy a half to 3/8" reducer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdaily89 Posted June 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 Thanks guys. Picked one up at Autozone & will do it tomorrow. I have a set of Torx sockets, but none that big. Thanks again, Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 I've always used 1/2" drive T60 with a breaker bar AND a pole about 2 feet long. And if that doesn't break it, then use a little heat persuasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 mine are rusted as hell. I'm doing that this summer at some point. It's gonna be a bitch to get off. I had a hell of a time just loosening them to see if it was possible. lol [/u] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 Get some of that super industrial wd40-like crap that'll eat through your paint in like 2 seconds. I forget what it's called, I got a can of it in the garage though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 Liquid Wrench is good stuff for that WD-40 works on some stuff, but on some bolts it doesn't do shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heza Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 i still dont understand how liquid wrench works. it seems like there is no space for the liquid to get onto the threads when its tighten in so far. eh...never used it myself. T-60 with 1/2" breaker bar. does the trick. just make sure you tighten the bolts back to proper spec or else youll have some problems like DaveFromColorado did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdaily89 Posted June 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 Just tried to get them loose and couldn't. Soaked them with PB Blaster, used a 1/2" breaker, mallet, and even heated them. No luck. Any suggestions? Oh yeah. I decided to rotate the tires while I was at it & broke on wheel stud on the rear. I am really beginning to hate this car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan94Z34 Posted June 6, 2004 Report Share Posted June 6, 2004 I use CRC for pentrating oil. I have found that it works best for breaking up rust and loosing rusty stuff up. I would soak the T60 nut with what ever you use, and let it sit for about an hour or so. IF you still can;t move it with the breaker, then heat it up. Heat not just the end of the bolt, but the metal around it where the bolt goes into. Be careful not to burn your rubber break lines. After heating try to loosen it. IF it wont budge, heat some more and try to loosen it again. You may have to put a cheater pipe on the end of the breaker bar to move the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdaily89 Posted June 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Well still no luck. I don't understand how this is so difficult. Is this, by chance, a reverse thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Nope no reverse thread. FWIW, I checked the torque specs for these bolts last night (putting the TGP back together ) and they call for 148 Lb/ft of torque. Add a little rust, and some time to get settled in, and you could be talking over 200#'s easy. Get a bigass cheater bar, and don't be afraid to brake something. If it brakes it'll come out the other side (but you'll then need a new caliper stand) HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdaily89 Posted June 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 Finally got them off. I feel really stupid because of 1 little thing I wasn't doing. I didn't turn the wheels all the way to one side so I could get the leverage needed. After doing this they came right off. Thanks to everyone for the help. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIKELABZ Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 MY CAR WENT UNDER THE KNIFE FOR THE SAME PROBLEM.. WENT TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET IT REPAIRED. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudefyet Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 on a side note...those bolts like to work themselves loose...so a lot of people using something to lock the threads....that would make it hell to get off it took me a lot of WD40 and all my body weight to get those bolts off...just make sure you use the same force putting them back on or they'll fall off like mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 or you could torque them to the proper specs and not worry about the bolts falling out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 I have not been able to get mine off for anything as much as I have tried. I tried it one time and couldn't do it...but that was with only about a 1 foot long ratchet. So then I put rotors on my sisters '93 LE and found that I needed a 2' long breaker bar and used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with a T60 bit and with a lot of persuasion those broke loose. So I tried this on mine and right away just snapped the 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. So then I went out and got a 1/2" T60 torq bit and the torq part that goes into the bolt broke clean off...probably had something to do with th 5' long pipe that I put over the end of the breaker bar. So after this and not having a single bolt break loose I gave up. Then I brought it in to school and tried to get it off there, and we heated it up with a torch and still couldn't get it off. This is when I realized why the stock rotors were still on the car. So I have the stock rotors with big huge grooves in them and I just replace the pads all the time. If someone wants to come over here and get the bolts loose for me...feel free, I really want them off. Shit I'd probably pay someone $20 just to break the bolts loose. They really piss me off! Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 what parts did you heat, and how hot did you get it? Last time I had a problem, I heated the part of the knuckle that the bolt threads into while barely heating up the bolt. Helped big time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihela816 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 That's why you don't use cheap sockets. I have the GM goodwrench T60 and an ancient 70's era craftsman 1/2" socket wrench. I used a 4 foot pipe to get mine off. Just did it on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 That's why you don't use cheap sockets. I have the GM goodwrench T60 and an ancient 70's era craftsman 1/2" socket wrench. I used a 4 foot pipe to get mine off. Just did it on Sunday. The first adapter that broke was a craftsman (the 1/2" to 3/8" adapter)...and the 1/2" T60 socket wasn't a craftsman because I needed it then and didn't have time to take a 45 minute drive to sears, because I usually would, but it was a solid socket...not cheap autozone crap or anything. The bar that I was using is a craftsman bar. The sockets broke because of the 1000+ft.lbs of torque I was putting on them by pulling on the end of the 5 ft. pipe which was on the end of a 2 foot breaker bar. A craftsman socket would've broken too...I just would've gotten a free one to replace it. Lately I have had a lot of craftsman tools break...I have a pile of I think 5 or 6 craftsman tools that I have broken in the past few weeks that I need to bring to sears to get new ones...so its not like craftsman tools don't break. I love how people automatically think you were using cheap tools when they break...because everyone knows that craftsman tools don't break. I broke a craftsman extension yesterday taking off a tire (to work on my brakes)...I was actually pretty shocked, because I wasn't really using that much force...I mean the lugnut was being stubborn...couldn't get it off with my 4-way wrench, but I wasn't pushing that hard on the bar and the end of the extension just twisted right off. what parts did you heat, and how hot did you get it? Last time I had a problem, I heated the part of the knuckle that the bolt threads into while barely heating up the bolt. Helped big time... We heated the braket right where the bolt goes into it...I don't think the bolt got very hot because there isn't any way to heat up the bolt directly I don't think. I know that the part we were heating up turned bright orange though...and it still wouldn't break loose...we even tried putting an impact wrench on it. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihela816 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 that's because you are using a 3/8". I said 1/2". Oh, yeah, and modern Craftsman stuff kinda sucks. They used to be made better but now i think it is all made in China. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 that's because you are using a 3/8". I said 1/2". Yeah, the adapter broke because it was a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter...but like I said, when I was using the 1/2" socket a craftsman socket would've broken too...this socket was completely solid and it just broke clean off due to the excessive force, not because it was a wimpy socket. I can go buy a craftsman socket and just do the same thing if you want. Sockets break when you put that much force on them...I don't care who made it. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 The socket that's 2-piece is actually considerably stronger than the one piece, based on what abuse I've subjected them to. Might have been Great Neck or maybe Stanley? T60 2-piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 The socket that's 2-piece is actually considerably stronger than the one piece, based on what abuse I've subjected them to. Might have been Great Neck or maybe Stanley? T60 2-piece. I've had a problem in the past with the 2 piece sockets stripping where they connect together...it just seems like a weak point to me. IIRC I have actually stripped a 2 piece T60 torx bit before...right in the middle where the 2 pieces connect...I think it may have been when i did the brakes on my sisters GP LE....although I think that was a cheap autozone bit so it didn't suprise me at all. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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