Robby1870 Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 So, my brake lights have been working sporadically lately. However, the 3rd brake light always works, and the ones on the tailights never work. So, I did some inspecting, and the wire that sends power to the brake lights does not have power before the connector in the trunk. So, power is not getting to the lights. I know the harness goes down under the back seats, and then up front. But, is there maybe a common place that rubs and goes bare and grounds out somewhere? Since the 3rd brake light works, I know the sensor on the pedal isnt bad. I may just tap into the wire in the 3rd brake light, but if anyone has any clue, lemme know. TIA Quote
White93z34 Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 its in the turn signal switch, others know more then me, but its a prety common problem. Quote
LukeZ34 Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 Yup.. turn signal switch is shot. (or at least getting there) Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 Brake lights go through the turn signal switch. 3rd brake light is wired direct. Quote
phantomshado Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 Mine is, and has been bad for quite some time. My cruise is weird because of it, I know that the cruise circuit is "fused" via the brake lights, however, my third light never lights...what do I do? Quote
Robby1870 Posted May 27, 2004 Author Report Posted May 27, 2004 Okay.....makes sense. Now....is a turn signal switch from a non steering wheel radio control car gonna work on a car WITH steering wheel radio controls?. I know the cancel cams are different. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 27, 2004 Report Posted May 27, 2004 Isn't your car a Grand Prix? If so, that's ridiculous of GM to do that. On a Lumina, Cutlass, or Regal, I can see why they run the brake light circuit through the switch - since the brake lights also act as turn signals. But a Grand Prix's brake lights are ONLY brake lights, there was no reason to run it through the turn signal switch!!! Well, I think you can make a non-SWC switch work in a car with SWC's, but I'm not certain. The main difference is the circuit board with IR detectors and maybe a couple spring-loaded terminals. They may be transplantable to the new switch, but I'd recommend closely examining them to make sure. Maybe the most permanent fix is just to do a turn signal switch bypass! Quote
Robby1870 Posted May 27, 2004 Author Report Posted May 27, 2004 Problem Solved: I took the turn signal switch apart, cleaned it real well (lost of corrosion), then, used a better cancel cam from the 90 parts car, re-greased it all, then put it back together, and the brake lights work! Also, I swapped the "normal" taillight from the 92 over to the STE, the way an STE should have looked Quote
Brian P Posted May 28, 2004 Report Posted May 28, 2004 the signal switch without steering controls are molded differently...well, the "back" plate is the same minus the circuit board- the front piece is different. Good to hear you fixed it, time to induce vomiting. Quote
Robby1870 Posted May 28, 2004 Author Report Posted May 28, 2004 the signal switch without steering controls are molded differently...well, the "back" plate is the same minus the circuit board- the front piece is different. Good to hear you fixed it, time to induce vomiting. Why the vomiting? LOL Quote
Lee Posted May 28, 2004 Report Posted May 28, 2004 Don't use wd-40 to clean your turn signal switches.....I know why too :oops: Mine was totally shot anyway and had to be replaced. Ya know, if they'd have made a runner slot for the top piece of the switch to ride, in the two parts wouldn't separate and lose contact. And $104 + is absolutely rediculous considering a whole ficken DVD recorder for a computer can be bought cheaper. A new small TV for that matter. Maybe $45 at best. Quote
Robby1870 Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 Don't use wd-40 to clean your turn signal switches.....I know why too :oops: Mine was totally shot anyway and had to be replaced. Ya know, if they'd have made a runner slot for the top piece of the switch to ride, in the two parts wouldn't separate and lose contact. And $104 + is absolutely rediculous considering a whole ficken DVD recorder for a computer can be bought cheaper. A new small TV for that matter. Maybe $45 at best. Yeah, I used rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. Im having problems now.....sometimes they work, sometimes they dont. So, tomorrow, Im going to tap into the wire that feeds the 3rd brake light and by-pass the turn signal switch for the brake lights Quote
Lee Posted May 29, 2004 Report Posted May 29, 2004 I tried tapping into the 3rd brake light.....it works but they only come on as bright as tail lights. Dim in the day and just tail lights at night. :? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 29, 2004 Report Posted May 29, 2004 I would jumper the wires together before they go into the turn signal harness. The small wire going to the 3rd brake light is probably too small to supply enough current. Quote
Robby1870 Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 yeah....tapping into the wire before the signal switch is a better idea. I do have a spare turn signal switch with SWRC, but I'll prolly just by-pass the switch. Quote
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