Jeff M Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 Injectors all checked out at 12.9 to 13.1 ohms.. Well it’s a long thread, in a few places so don’t mind me if you already addressed this and I missed it, but all that is left is the ignition module. Even though you had a MAP SES, this could have come from the poor vacuum (map) reading from bad spark that you did confirm (and checked out the MAP sensor connections, less it’s bad but not heard of any doing this yet….). Hope this helps better than all the mindless chatter from god . I wonder if the "910" part is Sepember 10th 1995 his birthday Just giving it back which I know you like Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted June 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 Brand new ignition module.. it came with the 3 new coils.. Fun eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead43 Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 What about the ECM itself..?? If ot was the center coil that shorted out suddenly, maybe it caused a fault in the ECM?. I'd do a quick Slap test on the ECM while the car is idling to see if the idle changes when the box is slapped.. If it does.... Good chance the ECM box is mesed up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 What about the ECM itself..?? If ot was the center coil that shorted out suddenly, maybe it caused a fault in the ECM?. I'd do a quick Slap test on the ECM while the car is idling to see if the idle changes when the box is slapped.. If it does.... Good chance the ECM box is mesed up.... Yea what he said Even consider swapping just to test. Odd occurrences like yours (more like challenges of your determination!) make you have to go through a lot more than a common worn problem would require you. But once you decide there are only so many items in the ignition system and the power that feeds such things (ECM, Ignition Mod, plugs etc), you are bound to find the culprit, and I would even check the chip by swapping in stock for a short time. Keep us updated, I like challenges almost as much as success Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Got everything put back together. Car turns over, but does not fire. Can't get it to start at all. Plugs were all good, not one looked bad. Running out of things to try.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead43 Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Have you got a scan tool you can hook it up to?.. Chances are if the is NO readout of RPM while cranking... The ICM, ECM ,or CPS is bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 It runs now, but still the same as before. I checked spark, and it's consistant on all 3 coils, but the 3rd coil speeds up every now and then for a split second. The garage reeks of unburnt gas now. I've got a video, and I think the people at the baseball diamond across the street have been wondering what the hell I've been doing, lol. http://www.lukez34.com/galleries/video/MOV01879.MPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 link does not work. "error 404" edit: works now, maybe i tried too soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 dam my GTS was running just like that yesterday until i swapped in a known good MAP solenoid & sensor....it would just barely run and didn't even throw a code. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Hmm.. Makes sense since it threw the Code 33 that one time. The SES hasn't come on since then. How much do those little buggers cost anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Hey Luke... Look under the passengers side beauty cover that covers the computer and such. There is a two wire plug back there that when I did the 5-speed swap I forgot to hook it back up and it threw code 33...but it ran good. Maybe that plug came apart somehow. The MAP sensor was done about 3 months after I got the car from Waskie... 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 The plug is peachy.. Glad to hear it had been replaced. Advance wanted $67 for a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Well, since we have charged ahead and done a lot of work, what would have normally fixed most engines, now would be a good time to step back and reflect on what has been done and what was found. Even though you have some new parts, keep in the back of your mind one or more might not have been a good part, and/or the install of any of these parts might have a problem not yet seen. What you do know from your tests is the spark is still erratic, and since the crank sensor is a $15 part, I would go new, especially since these are known to go bad (may look fine) but worse is if it’s a good used part, later it won’t be and taking it out (if you have heard the horror stories on the board here) can be extremely difficult!! So, you have full volts from the battery and good grounds, ECM is being fed this battery volts and has good grounds, crank signal is received, ECM is commanding spark, ign mod and coils good, wires and plugs good (keeping in mind maybe not). I would look at swapping the ECM with a know good one, before taking it out I would jiggle the ECM connections just to make sure that is not the problem. Also jiggle the injector and ECM fuses, then inspect them (even if there is no change from jiggling, this is a process of elimination as we want to KNOW what area is the problem) for discoloration and looseness as well as under the fuses for the same problems. With the erratic spark there has to be something in there messing things up, and with a SES of the MAP too, this points towards the ECM since MAP and spark are not related directly only in the ECM. Some things you may have done but you need to make a check-list so people like me don’t have to go re-reading all your posts or assuming anything or dancing around trying to guess door number 1 as done/checked-out such as; the spark plug wires are not making contact or being pinched such as under the alternator, plug wires are confirmed in the correct location (coil tap 1/spark/plug wire to cylinder 1), crank sensor wire not rubbing against anything and messing up the signal (!!), anything like this!!! If you skip these processes and troubleshootings (at least noting here you did it so we can help you) then you are destined to fail, or maybe just get lucky 8) . ps, I see there are some updated posts before I got this done, just ignore that which does not relate. Better luck now 8) Let us know in a little more detail how it goes. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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