Tie rod question

[IL_pilot]

OK- getting ready for a cross country move (Chicago to NJ for the summer, with a stop in KY) so I took my Regal in for an alignment (slight pull to the right and uneven tire wear). Well they get it done (Sears; 6mo/6k mile warrenty) but tell me the left inner tie rod is getting a little loose.

 

$113 to fix her all up, and the realignment will be covered under warrenty, I just don't have the time right now. They said it's not bad at all yet, but will need replacement in the next 5000 miles or so.

 

Since my service manual is packed in the trunk right now under a load of other shit, has anyone done one of these before? How hard would it be with just a floor jack and some blocks of wood? Or is this one of those jobs I really want a lift for? I'd like to try tackleing it myself when I get to where I'm going (we've got a pretty decent shop, but it's for airplanes, hence, no lift)

 

Thanks for any info- BTW, they really did a good job on the front end, the slight pull I had since I got the car is completly gone!

 

Thanks,

Mike

[DaveFromColorado]

you may not need a lift to do the inner-tie-rod, I've done a few of them, but you will want to be in the parking lot of the alignment shop, as you won't be able to drive real far without hurting a lot of other parts under the car, remember, anything more then 2 degreese outta alignment can destroy wheel bearings.

 

--Dave.

[joey b]

, remember, anything more then 2 degreese outta alignment can destroy wheel bearings.

 

--Dave.

 

Mine's not bad, but I know bearings aren't cheap. Guess what I'll be getting done soon.

[GnatGoSplat]

I have done one and it was easy, but the investment in tools ends up costing the same as if you'd paid it done.

 

1. You'll need a pitman arm puller or similar to remove the outer tierod without damaging its boot (pickle fork will kill it). About $7.

2. You'll need a big socket to remove the inner tierod. Cost me $45 I think.

3. You'll need to stake that bad boy down, unless you're brave. A one-handed tierod crimper cost me $75 and does perfect stakes. You can do it with a punch, but when I assessed the situation, it seemed impossible to do without pulling the rack.

 

Don't forget the torque wrench too!

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I did my OUTTER tie rod, I personally would take my car to a garage to do the inner cause it seems like alot of work and stuff, but thats just me.

[ctx46]

all that U need to do a inner tie rod end is..... .

18 mm socket and ratchet, 22 mm wrench, vise grips, inner tie rod tool (about 75 new, checker rents em out though) a pair or dikes (side cutters) pry bar or long skrew driver, and a tube of lock tight.

 

1. loosen jam nut from outer tie end and inner tie rod (22mm nut).

2. remove cotter pin, which is on the end of the outer tie rod end.

3. remove 18mm outer tie rod end nut

4. pound on the knuckle untill the outer popps out of its taper, (it will come up, but it may take a couple of swings)

5. remove the outer tie rod end, turning it counter clockwise, but MAKE SURE TO COUNT THE TURNS!!!! so it get re-installed relitivly close to where it was.

6. remove jam nut

7. remove both clamps on the bellows boot, one spring clamp (outer) and one crimped clamp (inner) thats what the long skrew driver is for. now remove the boot.

8. install the inner tie rod tool on the inner tie rod end, and simply loosen the inner tie rod end..

when re installing the tie rod end, make sure to put lock tight on the inner tie rod end, other wise it could loosen up.

reverse directions to install, and I always use a large zip tie to replace the inner bellows boot clamp,

 

it will make more sence while yur doing it... there easy to do... and with air they shouldnt take more than 10 min to do.....

later

joe