'......

[Invasion1]

'

[patgizz]

permatex white pipe/thread sealant is excellent and it stays soft.

[Guest TurboSedan]

I have some of that stuff.....

 

i need to buy a tap to clean out the threads.......

 

is there another method to clean the inside of the head bolt holes???

 

maybe a long wire brush or drill attatchment???

 

i'd like to know more about cleaning head bolt holes out also as i will be doing this next week (on my 2.2). my brother just used a tap and has had NO problems. could using a tap of the same size as the threads cut any material out? or would it simply clean the threads out?

[DiscoStudd]

could using a tap of the same size as the threads cut any material out? or would it simply clean the threads out?

 

No, it won't cut any of the threads out, but it most definitely will clean them out...

[Guest TurboSedan]

cool. my brother used the tap by going a little way down, wiping & spraying the gunk off of the tap (w/Brakleen) and doing that a few times over until the tap came out clean. i will prolly do the same.

[DaveFromColorado]

let me know how those studs work, I've heard that there's problems with fitting the rocker arms after you have them in place without a little modification. Also, since you are using studs instead of bolts now, expect to be burning a little oil, as they will "pull" on the cylinders a little differently, and warp them just enough to burn some* oil, not a lot, but some.

 

--Dave.

[musthavemuzk]

this is new to me.

please explain why studs and not bolts?

 

as you may know i have the heads of my cutlass 90 3.1

 

waiting on a call from the shop to hear good or bad so i can get it back together soon.

 

Monty

[god910]

Studs provice more clamping force on the head to hold in higher cylinder pressures. Also, they can be re-used. The stock head bolts (most of GM's are anyhow) are single use bolts. They stretch after use.

 

Dave: If the block was bored using a torque plate that will eliminate the stretch won't it? I've never heard of problems w/ it on my Caddy Big Blocks (of course they are a high nickle alloy, very strong (also w/ an aluminum intake 509"s weighs only 50 pounds more than an SBC!!)

 

It's also not a bad idea to keep grease on the threads of the tap to grab as much metal as possible. Permatex teflon=awesome 8)

[musthavemuzk]

thank you

 

Monty

[DaveFromColorado]

when using a torque plate to bore the cylinders, you most often will use the bolts or studs you intend to use on the engine durring reassembly. The reason for this is when you are using bolts, they will create different stress points in the block then studs will, as you so noted that the studs have a stronger clamping force, they too have a different pulling force wich can reshape the cylinders in ways that will cause oil burning.

 

Also, a good note is if you are using chrome-molly you will only want to use a very THIN oil such as wd-40, or me personally, I put the pistons in dry, people say this is stupid, but if you oil the rings, you will have an engine which will burn oil for thousands of miles, rather then one which will puff smoke for a good 5 minutes before the rings are seated and it burns clean.

 

--Dave

[musthavemuzk]

instead of starting a new thread may as well ask here.

 

was thinking on this at work today and well

 

does this clean thread and seal procedure apply to bolts as well as the studs?

 

will i have to clean the threads, use thread locker or thread sealer as talked about above?

if so then i guess i may as well get started on this while i am waiting for my heads.

 

one day i will not have any more questions to ask.

til them please bear with me

 

Monty

[DaveFromColorado]

as well with bolts and studs, you must always use some type of thread sealer, and always "chase" the threads in the block, always, always, always, no exceptions.

 

--Dave.

[musthavemuzk]

thank you

 

now i need to add a tap to my shopping list

 

Monty