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[Invasion1]

'

[cutlsp]

thanks davis i was wondering where to get some of those

i ordered a set for my cutlass too. along with the rear sway bar and the new stb bar it should be good as new in the rear oh and ffp coil overs too

[Brian P]

the only thing I don't like- if something were to smash into your rear wheel hard (curb....car, etc) the unibody may be sacrificed rather than just bending the trailing arm.

[Vegeta]

Im in the middle of installing mine, only with poly bushings in there. Major fucking pain in the ass to get the smaller bolt to actually pull out of the stock arms. I need an air hammer for this SOB!

 

If I hit something and the unibody is compromised...I guess it will be time to weld in reinforcements for it.

[Vegeta]

I still havent got the other one out yet. I took the sawzall too it and cut open part of it so I can burn the rubber out (smells great, glad I have a face mask) and then hopefully WD-40 the middle metal part and heat it to break the rust loose in there. If this doesnt do it, im gonna get an air hammer and that bitch is coming out.

[90TGP]

I have a set on my TGP. They deffinitly stiffened up the rear a little.

[Vegeta]

I have 1/4 of the metal around the bushing cut off...and started burning it out so I can squeeze it off and cut the rubber off the middle part. This is fucking lame, a god damn trailing arm is my all day project!

[Vegeta]

ok....well now the arm is off but the bolt is still in there. The sleeve around the bolt has become one with the bolt itself so now im using heat and WD-40 at the crease line (its just a folded piece of metal, not a true tube) and praying it will break free soon. Glad the new bushings have aluminum sleeves, in case I ever need to pull them off for some reason.

 

Did you notice on yours that they are just slightly shorter than the stockers? I had to use a screwdriver in the hole to pry it just enough to get the bolt through. Doesn't look like it will hurt anything for the amount I had to move it but still kinda strange that it wasn't precise.

[per0781]

Im in the middle of installing mine, only with poly bushings in there.

 

Ben where did you get he poly bushings from?

 

For you autocross warriors, if the GMPP trailing arms arent good enough,

 

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/W-Body.htm

 

trailings arms will do you well.

[Vegeta]

I got them from the biggest piece of shit company I have ever dealt with. I tried to sell the whole set for 200 bucks (16 bushings set) and no one wanted them....best offer was 100! Yes, RSM can go to hell. I modified their bushings to fit the GMPP arms.

[per0781]

I got them from the biggest piece of shit company I have ever dealt with. I tried to sell the whole set for 200 bucks (16 bushings set) and no one wanted them....best offer was 100! Yes, RSM can go to hell. I modified their bushings to fit the GMPP arms.

 

:guns: RSM

[Vegeta]

GOT IT! i somehow doubt that the die grinder was in the instructions for this install, but it did the trick. I ground down on the crease in the sleeve and got it so I could spray WD40 in there, and then heated it up. Then, the vise grips on it and twisted the bolt loose in there and hammered it out the side. Now I hope the install for the new one isn't even remotely hard. What a PITA.

[AWeb80]

So I take it that even though they are listed for Gen 2 w-body's....they will fit on my GP.

 

Someone confirm this please.

[Vegeta]

Well, i just put them on a 91 GP so you can figure it out:P

[musthavemuzk]

newb questions here.

 

what is the purpose of this part?

if replaced what will be gained?

 

what other parts should be replaced or looked at at the same time?

 

Monty

[per0781]

Davis explains the differences between the two in his first post of this thread.

[AWeb80]

are there any polyurethane bushings we can get for them...I know RSM had/has them, but i'm not gonna deal with them.

 

I also work at a machine shop so I "might" be able to make my own.

[per0781]

I reccomend you change the mounting hardware (bolts nuts and washers) if and when you change from the Stock bars to the GMPP ones....

 

How much was the new hardware and where did you get it from?

[dykz34]

Also, p/n's for the nut and bolt? 8) Or will any one work?

[4spdz34]

Also, p/n's for the nut and bolt? 8) Or will any one work?

 

i just got a bolt from the hardware store cause i snapped one off. just get a good grade bolt

[dbtk2]

I know I'm kinda digging up an old thread here, but are these trailing arms any narrower than the stock ones??? Mine rub on my tires (and are rusty as well), and I was hoping maybe these would be narrower so they won't rub.

 

Thanks,

 

Shawn

[dbtk2]

i think the GMPP ones are a bit thicker than the Stock ones......

 

are your Stock ones bent??? or warped.........

 

 

one could get a longer bolt for the rear hub and use a bushing to move them out a bit more for clearance to tire purposes........

 

i might have to do that if i get new rims and tires that are bigger than my AR's right now....

 

My stock ones appear to be completely straight...not bent or warped. I know it is weird that they rub...I am thinking it is just the offset on these stupid wheels. Our TGP Coupe with stock wheels (8"..my TSTE has 6.5" wheels) and wider tires than my TSTE (245's as opposed to 225's) clears the trailing arms by quite a bit. I know that one of the trailing arms on our TGP coupe is bent...but they look to be straight on the TSTE. The tires just barely rub (and the passenger side more than drivers side for some reason)...but they still rub and I would like to get it fixed.

 

I will take a look at it and see how easy it would be to shim them out with a bushing or something. That would probably be the best option. I am probably getting different wheels soon anyways (stock 94-96 5 spokes) so I shouldn't have the problem anymore...but it would be nice to fix it.

 

Shawn

[dbtk2]

I'm thinking it has to be the offset. But thats okay...the 4 5 spokes in my trunk oughtta fix that...anyone want some maroon STE wheels?

 

Shawn