Z34door Posted May 28, 2004 Report Posted May 28, 2004 How does fuel pump have anything to do with not having spark? all i know is when imy pump would die the car would lose spark. once it cooled down it regained spark and fuel pressure. Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted May 28, 2004 Report Posted May 28, 2004 wow that sucks i hope you figure everything out dude. good luck Quote
Canada Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 Frickin sensor broke off when trying to remove it......it broke VERY easyily......like with my hands. So, we are thinking it was cracked before....and now fully broken........at least we sourced the problem. We tried very hard to steer away from oil pan removal........hot punches, screwdrivers, lag screws, wood screws........even a cork screw....and right now, top engine clean (that ATE the paint off the top of my tool box). Don't think its going to work though. Tomorrow will pry involve pan droppage.....hopefully we can work around getting it off without dropping the cradle. We can access all the bolts......its just a matter of slipping it past whats on the other side of the motor. I don't know how you would do this on a automatic trans car.... Quote
god910 Posted May 29, 2004 Report Posted May 29, 2004 Assuming we are talking about the CPS, did you try air? Plug up the PCV and anywhere else air can get out (within reason) and blow air into your crankcase. It's worked before. Quote
Canada Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 I don't have access to compressed air.....and the bitch is in tight. Quote
GrandPrix34 Posted May 29, 2004 Report Posted May 29, 2004 i have a crank sensor for a DOHC i dont need. Its a WELL'S brand, stillbrand new. Bought it but never used it. I payed either 25 or 30 buxs for it. If you have none yet, shoot me a PM and ill sell it to you for 5 buxs plus shipping (shouldn't be alot) and ill ship it pronto. If you already have one, then good luck in replacing the sensor. By the way, make sure you trace the sensor wire and make sure it isnt grounding or cut or damaged on its way to the ICM. Should be in a split loom but make sure of it also. Quote
Canada Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 Nope already got one.....thanks anyways........I honestly didn't think it would be this big of a pain in the ass..........and it SHOULDN'T........the sensor, was, just, well....fucked. I've triple checked the wiring over.......concidering I have already replaced the injector harness and the pigtail for the oxygen sensor due to mice. It looks fine.......I'll pry check it with a voltmeter today. I need to get my ass out their instead of sitting in front of this computer...... Quote
Canada Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 Anyone know if you can remove the brace that lies underneath the crank pulley? Also....once the pan is unbolted....will it clear the internals of the engine to get it out? I'm more worried about the shallow end of the pan on the passenger side. Quote
Canada Posted May 30, 2004 Author Report Posted May 30, 2004 I got all the pan bolts out (except one) without much effort.....swivels save......I didn't work at the last one much........and there is still the matter of clearance without dropping the cradle at least a bit. I imagine I'll have to seperate that mount then lower the cradle while supporting the drivetrain. Quote
Canada Posted June 6, 2004 Author Report Posted June 6, 2004 New crank sensor is in.......car starts and runs alright........until you shut it off. It won't restart.....reason being the injectors are leaking, which causing the plugs to get completely covered in fuel. I priced new injectors......$60 each from AutoZone.....$130 list from GM.....which is around $60 my cost (I am employed by a dealership). I've done a bit of research on sending them off to get cleaned.....found a few places....mostly just guys with cleaning machines in there garages..... Witch Hunter (http://www.witchhunter.com) looks like who I'll go with.......$12 for cleaning and flow testing. He'll test the coil windings....and if they are shorted (low resistance), it can not be fixed and must be tossed, but won't charge me the $12. So far I have replaced.... -Battery -Injector Harness -Starter -Ignition Module -Crank Sensor -Pan Gasket -Driver's Window I think thats it........the only part that was shotguned was the ignition module. Everything else was needed. Cars suck. Quote
god910 Posted June 6, 2004 Report Posted June 6, 2004 I've heard good things about this guy. http://www.lindertech.com He's a good Indy guy and is awesome w/ injectors (not speaking from experience) Hell, I just use Accels. Don't use the Bosch's unless you are ready to deal w/ the rails not seating right (that's what I'm working on right now. They are the same length as the Accel's and are too SHORT) $149.70 probably can't be beat. Quote
Canada Posted June 7, 2004 Author Report Posted June 7, 2004 So now instead of TONS of fuel....I have ZERO fuel.......plenty of pressure at the rails.....but not getting shit into the cylinders. Fucking cars. Quote
grandprixgtp_91 Posted June 9, 2004 Report Posted June 9, 2004 whoa so i was right, the crank sensor, that is the only other case of when the car warms up it dies i have ever heard of besides mine. cool at least it works. good luck with the injectors. Jake Quote
Canada Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Posted June 11, 2004 Yeah....the thing is I'm about $100 away from getting this car running.....and after all the other parts I've bought, I am now out of extar cash for a few weeks. Quote
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