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Rubbing One Out


93CutlassSupreme

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Posted

i have nothing to do this weekend so i'd like to work on my car's finish. i found a orbital buffer in the garage. i'd like to buff my car out. anyone have any helpful tips they'd be willing to share? is this something a first timer can do without fucking up my finish?

 

thanks

Posted

Oh...what I ment to say the first time...

 

I personally wouldn't use a buffer on a car. If you get kinda lazy or tired you can burn through the clear coat. I have never done this, but I've heard of people that have. Also, I have found that when I wax a car I get less swirl marks by doing it by hand.

 

If anything, wash it, claybar it, wax it (the car)

Posted

Use a buffer for applying rubbing compound and/or polish (if you are gonna use it). If you are just gonna wash your car and wax it, they doing it by hand it the best way to go. With a buffer just make sure you don't keep it on one spot too long, do about 3 ft sections at a time. Use clean (maybe buy new) pads.. which also come in a variety of softness. Don't use the same pad for different chemicals (different pad for polish, wax, etc). You don't have a new $5000 paint job so I say go for it I don't think you will have any problems.

Posted

If your finish is pretty good I would just do it by hand after a good wash and dry. It's very easy to damage the finish with an orbital, and worst of all dirty cloths,pads etc.

 

We use La Sal Merilla (spelling??) and it works great and very low effort, although it may not last as long as some.

Posted

Yes.. I forgot to mention that. Let the weight of the buffer to ALL the work.. don't press down on it. Clean pads are important.

 

I'll repeat myself.. buffer is really only nessesary for rubbing compound and polish compount... wax you just slap on and quickly buff off after it drys, so either do it by hand (which is what I do) or use the buffer real quick to avoid swirl marks.

Posted

Doing it by hand is for amateurs and poor people. What you need is a random orbital buffer. I have 2 (for some reason) black and decker 6" and if you can burn through clear coat with that, you are not human. The buffer will do a much better job other than the areas you just cant get to. Plenty of literature about it though as I read through most of the articles the owner of the car wash/detail shop had lying around for us to read. Those were the days:)

 

Now, if its not random orbital, throw it away. Its a relic of the cold war and needs to be put to sleep.

Posted

yeah, youve got to be a complete idiot or moron to burn through the paint. Just keep moving.

 

I personall wouldnt worry about rubbing compound. Just go with a plan polish, Meguairs makes a few. Or hell...you really have the time?

 

Go clay. Can get it where you get other detailing supplies. About 10. Clay car, using tons of lube. Then get like the Megs 3-step deep crystal series. Cleaner, Polish, and wax all in one. Do them in that order.

 

If you can, do the cleaner and polish applying with the buffer, removing by hand. As for the wax, its a toss up....hand sometimes is beter.

 

pm me....i know alll about this stuff, and if you have more questions

 

jon

Posted

wow i just found a buffer yesterday in my garage as well. Now after hearing all these tips, with my finish being the best its been, i dont think ill use the buffer.

Posted
Doing it by hand is for amateurs and poor people.

 

I know. :oops: Not really an amateur, but more of a poor person.

 

I guess I've just never had a good experience with a buffer...maybe I'll try again someday...

Posted

yeah i thought you guys would like the title

 

i polished and waxed my car last spring by hand, and it did shine up the paint but it did nothing to the scraches and swirl marks, i'd like to somehow improve the appearance of my scraches and swirl marks

Posted
yeah i thought you guys would like the title

 

i polished and waxed my car last spring by hand, and it did shine up the paint but it did nothing to the scraches and swirl marks, i'd like to somehow improve the appearance of my scraches and swirl marks

 

You need to use clay or rubbing compound, and polish for that. Wax just protects and makes it shiney... it doesn't "fix" anything.

Posted
yeah i thought you guys would like the title

 

i polished and waxed my car last spring by hand, and it did shine up the paint but it did nothing to the scraches and swirl marks, i'd like to somehow improve the appearance of my scraches and swirl marks

 

You need to use clay or rubbing compound, and polish for that. Wax just protects and makes it shiney... it doesn't "fix" anything.

 

clay bar then?

Posted

I've never used it personally (and don't bother since I have a spraypainted car :oops: ).. but I am wanting to try the stuff out. Everyone here seems to say its the shyt, so I'd say go for it.

Posted

I got my buffer for 25 bucks...so they aren't too much. Pads are about 5 bucks each I believe.

Posted

wait wait wait... First the title. errrrr :oops: Right..

 

Second.. no no no no no!!!! .. There are 2 completely different tools. A Power Buffer and an orbital Buffer.

 

An Orbital Buffer will NEVER burn the paint. It's not fast enough. And its used only for the application of wax/polish and final buffing up. It will elminate hand swirls caused by hand waxing.

 

A Power Buffer running at 1000-1500 RRM is the one that will skin your paint if you are not careful. It is used by professionals to restore the paint , remove heavy oxidation, Swirl marks, Acid Rain, overspary, and slight paint imperfections, etc. It is the one that must be keep moving at all times and flowing with the lines of the panels, and off the edges, not around the edges!!!

 

But even with an orbital buffer, just be sure you use soft, clean terry towels and bonnets for the job. If any hard gets under the buffer/polisher, it will eat up your paint :!: :oops: :shock:

Posted

this is what i have

 

527087_24_full.jpg

 

will it work? what kind of chemicals should i use? and how do i use it? step by step process?

 

i really want to remove scraches and swirls

Posted

This is the one you have to be careful with...

the orbital one as you have are mainly good for plain waxing....

 

rodi_1793_48768619.jpg

Posted

That you have there is a Polisher/Waxer. It used to apply and remove polish / wax... It will not fix paint imprefections.

 

The long way is to use a clay bay if the paint has not been cleaned in a long time, then apply polish first, then remove it using clean pads or terry towels, then apply a thin coat of wax and remove it after drying with clean pads and a terry towels.

 

To save time, you can combine both wax and polisher into one step. Plus some points to remember :

 

- Apply a small amount of polish /wax compound into the center of the pad.

 

- Only start the waxer after the pad is on the paint (Keeps compound from slinging everywere.

 

- Work panel by panel , and start in the center of each panel. This will keep excess wax out of the creases and the emblems, etc.

 

- When removing compound , if you start to notice swirls, that means its time to change the pad to a clean one. That is why I use terry towels istead of just pads, it helps to cut down on the pad useage. (I will lightly wipe away excess dried compund on the panels surfaces BEFORE using the the buffer to buff out the final shine with clean pads and terry towels.)

Posted

alright thanks

 

i usually wax and polish by hand, but i get tired of sore arms. if i use my buffer will it look as good? after i apply the polish or wax with the buffer, i buff it off by hand, like normal waxing/polishing?

Posted

no..

 

Put it on with the Orbital.... Take the Excess off by Hand (one Towel) and then do the final buff with the Orbital and plenty of clean Terry towels.. You can lay the terry towel flat on the surface of the car and out the orbital on top if it. When you turn it on the towel will spin with the pad... When the towel starts to leave swirl marks , flip it over. When both sides are dirty. Get a clean one and start over. Repeat until the entire car is done.

 

It should not require you more then 4 pads and 15 towels. To which you can wash and dry for use the next time around.

Posted

personally if I'm compounding a car, I use a stream of water and a wet cloth to get it all off....I once tried removing compound after it dried and it did NOT feel like a good idea.

Posted

alright thanks guys if it doesn't rain i'm gonna give it a try tomarrow

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