Baddflash Posted May 13, 2004 Report Posted May 13, 2004 I'm just about finished my 5-speed swap, but I can't get the clutch to disengage. I'm guessing that there's either a lot of air left in the line/master/slave cylinder or the unit is scrap. Is there a special procedure to bleed air out of it? Do I need to just keep working it? I've got a bit of movement out of it after getting some air out but it doesn't have near enough movement/pressure to diengage the clutch. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Quote
Guest TurboSedan Posted May 13, 2004 Report Posted May 13, 2004 here is how i bleed the system, which has always worked well for me: - remove the clutch fluid reservoir cover. - using a small punch, knock the roll pin out of the slave cylinder and pull the hydraulic line out of it. inspect the o-ring for damage. - unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission (2 13mm nuts). you will need to depress those two small plastic tabs to remove it completely. - holding the slave cylinder at a 45* angle, slowly fill it with DOT-3 brake fluid. when it's almost completely full, hold it at a 90* angle and fill it completely. set the slave cylinder aside keeping it upright so no fluid leaks out. - fill a small clear container with new clean DOT-3 brake fluid. fill it enough so that you can submerge the end of the line in the fluid. - have a friend *slowly* pump the clutch pedal. you should see dirty fluid and air bubbles come out of the end of the line. make sure you keep the reservoir topped off with new clean DOT-3 brake fluid while you do this to keep air from re-entering the system. - after the air bubbles stop coming out of the end of the line, have your friend keep the clutch pedal to the floor while you pull the end of the line out of the clear container and insert it back into the slave cylinder. - keeping the clutch pedal to the floor, push the roll pin back into the slave cylinder so the line stays attatched. - top off the reservoir and try it out hope this helps! Quote
Baddflash Posted May 13, 2004 Author Report Posted May 13, 2004 Thanks Malibuolds, I'll try that out and see if it works. I've been dying to take it for a spin since I got it running again. Quote
Baddflash Posted May 14, 2004 Author Report Posted May 14, 2004 That deffinately helped but I had to remove the neutral safety switch in order to get it to disengage all the way though. I'm not sure if I put it in the wrong place but the pedal has to basically touch the floor for the clutch to work. OMFG!!!!!!!!!! This car is so savage now, I can't even attempt to floor it without it lighting up the tires. I've only gotten to put it halfway down and it's shreading rubber, I bet it'll smoke my '99 GP GT easy now. I am so in love with this car now, all the work of doing the swap is worth every second of my time and every cut and bruise I got doing it. Quote
Guest TurboSedan Posted May 14, 2004 Report Posted May 14, 2004 hell yeah!!! i felt the same way after my 5-speed swap! my car burns mad tire in 1st gear - i can smoke the tires all the way thru 1st and get a good bark into 2nd (btw, i stopped doing that after my 1st Getrag went 'boom' :oops: ) btw, i have no neutral safety switch, but my clutch disengages completely about 2" from the floor. i have a new Raybestos master cylinder tho, so that might be why. have fun Quote
Baddflash Posted May 14, 2004 Author Report Posted May 14, 2004 i have a new Raybestos master cylinder tho, so that might be why. have fun Is the master cylinder attached or seperate from the line? If so I just have to go get the master cylinder from that '90 gp cause I know it worked fine and already have the slave cylinder from it, which I will try tommorow. Quote
Guest TurboSedan Posted May 14, 2004 Report Posted May 14, 2004 Is the master cylinder attached or seperate from the line? If so I just have to go get the master cylinder from that '90 gp cause I know it worked fine and already have the slave cylinder from it, which I will try tommorow. yup, the master cylinder is just on the other end of the hydraulic line. you can disconnect the line from the master cylinder the same way as the slave cylinder (another roll pin). fwiw, my Raybestos clutch master cylinder was about $90 from Checker. Quote
Baddflash Posted May 14, 2004 Author Report Posted May 14, 2004 Cool, I'll go get it tommorow, and put both of them in. Hopefully this will solve my clutch problem cause I haven't put my carpet back in yet and I know it won't work after I do. Thanks Quote
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