'

[Invasion1]

\

[BIGBULS]

10W30 if it's a GM FWD V6..............

 

For summer that is.

 

 

 

And be sure to use decent oil filters.............whatever you do, don't use Fram's over long periods of time..........your engine will thank you.

[Guest Anonymous]

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK THE MOTOR IN!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Use mobil drive clean blend for at least the first 500 miles. The I'd use Mobil synthetic blend for another 500. Then switch to full synthetic.

[TGPilot]

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK THE MOTOR IN!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Use mobil drive clean blend for at least the first 500 miles. The I'd use Mobil synthetic blend for another 500. Then switch to full synthetic.

 

If you have done any serious machine work to the cylinders or have a new cam and lifters...you should not use synthetic from the start. As Turby said you need alternatives to synthetic for the first 500-1000 miles. Then switch to full synthetic after you have broken the motor in... 8)

[90lum31v6euro]

k&n gold oil filters are great, thats what i run on my car

[TGPilot]

Here is an article from Amsoil explaining why normal petroleum oil before using full synthetic oils... http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/convertingtoamsoil.htm

[White93z34]

fram from my experience and understanding fram filters like to melt the engine (the rubber seal) makeing it a real pita to get off. that and from what i'm told the element inside the filter is manufactured very poor, i heard a horror story once of a car sitting over the winter then when it was fired up in the spring the guts of the fram broke apart and got sucked into the engine :shock:

 

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

[gp90se]

My turn: Break in the engine for the first time with 10w30 standard oil, I always do the run for 20 min at 2500 rpms (without the turbo hooked up). Drain the oil, change the filter (look inside for metal shavings). might also want to put a magnet on the filter.

 

Put in another 4 1/2 of conventional 10w30 and drive the city for 1000 miles, change the oil and you should be good to go to synthetic.

 

Using synthetic for the break-in will make it harder for the valve seals to seat, and actually to my understanding let the valve seals burn.

 

Fram sucks, period. While I was working for an instant oil change place, I only saw 1 type of filter fail, not just 1ce or twice, a good 10 times or so. The cardboard internals actually break away and will enter the engine. STP has a good cheaper filter, Mobil 1 and K&N have damn good filters, but are pricey. Ive always used DELCO filters on my cars, there a good solidly built product.

 

Also, while were on the topic, Pennzoil contains upto 5% wax in there oil which burns off. Again, not good for an engine. Mobil drive clean, Valvoline, chevron are good solid oil. Mobil 1, royal purple, amsoil IMO are the 3 best synthetics to run.

 

-Jeff

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

Engines that came from the factory running synthetic were designed to run synthetic. 3.1 is still an old engine regardless or a total rebuild or not. Everywhere I've read says to break in any engine with regular oil than switch to synthetic. Also with a fresh engine you don't want to get the RPMs too high for a little while, but I'm sure you know that.

[BIGBULS]

In my defense, it wasn't fully explained at first that "new" meant BRAND NEW.....as in not broken in yet.

 

 

 

Otherwise, YES, I would use conventional oil for the first 1K miles or so for a basic break in, and then switch over. You CAN use M1, but the break in WILL take a bit longer.

 

 

 

 

Oh.........and another good PAO Group IV oil to add to the list of "best synthetics"...........Redline

 

Finally.........the reason Fram's suck:

 

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart5.htm

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

And some other info about different oils (this guy jerks off to Amsoil):

 

http://www.technilube.com/sections/comps/synth_diff.htm

[1stgenbird]

I am a firm believer of Mobil 1 oils and have used Mobil 1 in all my vehicles since it came out in the 1970s.

I use 5w30 in the 3.4 of my Cutlass. I also use Delco filters as they are some of the best. Fram filters are pretty bad.

[Guest Anonymous]

That's the right filter but I don't see why you need anything other than an AC Delco filter. 1/3 the price and just as good IMHO.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

With a new engine you are gonna want to do frequent oil changes for the break in period right? So why not get a cheaper filter (AC Delco). Just makes sense in my mind.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

Davis I've been using Candian Tire brand filters for the most part and they are good. They don't fall apart or anything they are pretty good filters. AC Delco stuff you gotta go to a dealership.

[93CutlassSupreme]

ac delco ones are like 50 cents more than the fram ones here

 

look around, some auto parts store will have them

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

Canadian Tire Brand (motomaster) oil filters are made by Fram!!!!!!

 

just llike there Motomaster oil is made for them by castrol

 

 

Hmm.. maybe I'll switch to Castrol filters or something :oops:

 

I'm not really too concerned cause my stupid engine woun't die, and I do change the oil and filter WELL before 3000miles...

[1stgenbird]

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

Here are results of the tests done on various brands of oil filters.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

Here are results of the tests done on various brands of oil filters.

 

 

That is very informative. I might buy NAPA filters from now on. Looks like much of the cheap filters at Canadian Tire are Fram

[4spdz34]

gm cars that come from the factory with mobil 1 are already broke in. gm had a problem whne the first started using mobil 1 in the corvettes, the fix was to run the engine up to redline and back down every tank of gas. since then they come from the factory broke in

[toms92gpse]

Do not use any kind of fram, my wife beretta had a fram filter on it and when i was trying to take it off to change the filter, it crushed and would not come off. i mean as soon as the band on the filter wrench tightened it was like sqeezing a soda can. I use K&N on my car, never had a problem with it and they are very sturdy, and after 3k miles on my oil it still looks as clean as it did when i put it in. If you want to go cheaper get anything other then fram. My wifes beretta has a supertech oil filter right now, they cost less then the fram does, but are definitly built sturdier. As far as breaking in, i hear for the break in use coventional or a blend, then after it is broken in use a full synthetic. I use 10w30 mobile 1 syn. in my 3.4dohc.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Do not use any kind of fram, my wife beretta had a fram filter on it and when i was trying to take it off to change the filter, it crushed and would not come off. i mean as soon as the band on the filter wrench tightened it was like sqeezing a soda can. I use K&N on my car, never had a problem with it and they are very sturdy, and after 3k miles on my oil it still looks as clean as it did when i put it in. If you want to go cheaper get anything other then fram. My wifes beretta has a supertech oil filter right now, they cost less then the fram does, but are definitly built sturdier. As far as breaking in, i hear for the break in use coventional or a blend, then after it is broken in use a full synthetic. I use 10w30 mobile 1 syn. in my 3.4dohc.

 

don't you want your oil to get dirty after a while, that means its picking up shit inside your engine?

[phantomshado]

I can't believe nobody has said wix yet. I live and die by my wix filters. They rule.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I can't believe nobody has said wix yet. I live and die by my wix filters. They rule.

 

According to that one link NAPA filters are Wix.. I think I'll get one for my next oil change. 8)

[BIGBULS]

I can't believe nobody has said wix yet. I live and die by my wix filters. They rule.

 

According to that one link NAPA filters are Wix.. I think I'll get one for my next oil change. 8)

 

They are.............take the Napa part number (1515 for instance) and put a "5" in front of it to get your Wix part number (51515)...........

 

Wix are ok, and really quite well built, but they DO cut some corners...............for instance, they use the same filter for GA16DE and SR20DE engines (Nissan 1.6 and 2.0L I-4's), when the SR filter is supposed to be quite a lot larger.........thus cutting down on overall filter media area.

 

They ARE a lot better than Fram though.

[SmokesGTP]

My turn: Break in the engine for the first time with 10w30 standard oil, I always do the run for 20 min at 2500 rpms (without the turbo hooked up). Drain the oil, change the filter (look inside for metal shavings). might also want to put a magnet on the filter.

 

Put in another 4 1/2 of conventional 10w30 and drive the city for 1000 miles, change the oil and you should be good to go to synthetic.

 

Using synthetic for the break-in will make it harder for the valve seals to seat, and actually to my understanding let the valve seals burn.

 

Fram sucks, period. While I was working for an instant oil change place, I only saw 1 type of filter fail, not just 1ce or twice, a good 10 times or so. The cardboard internals actually break away and will enter the engine. STP has a good cheaper filter, Mobil 1 and K&N have damn good filters, but are pricey. Ive always used DELCO filters on my cars, there a good solidly built product.

 

Also, while were on the topic, Pennzoil contains upto 5% wax in there oil which burns off. Again, not good for an engine. Mobil drive clean, Valvoline, chevron are good solid oil. Mobil 1, royal purple, amsoil IMO are the 3 best synthetics to run.

 

-Jeff

 

Look at an AC Delco and an STP, they are the same filter.