Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 I'm currently trying to replace a rear strut on my 95 cutlass. I think I'm in over my head here. Any tips on how to remove it, and I'm having a problem getting the caliper off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 It is the easiest if you have power tools. All you have to do it take off the 2 big bolts behind the brake caliper, and the bolts holding the top to the car. Also, you have to change out the strut mount which is also easy to do with power tools (impact gun). When you take the brake caliper off, the rotor off, and the bracket that holds the caliper onto the strut (I might be thinking about the front here. I just did them) you have to take the 2 BIG nuts off, and pound the bolts off with a hammer (leave the nuts on the ends, and hit it with a rubber mallet). I think that is about it, but if there is anything else, the others will point it out. Besides, I feel like I am forgetting someting anyways. Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 hopefully these pics will help you, http://www.ualberta.ca/~ployola/W-Body/RS/ msg me if oyu want any advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 http://www.ualberta.ca/~ployola/W-Body/RS/rs9.jpg this is the bolt you have to take off, note that you take the nut off then you hammer or push the bolt out, Impact is best method you need a floor jack and jack stand should only take as long as taking those two bolts out, WATCH your FACE, don't get mangled plz, i was about 1 mm away from getting a strut smashing me in the face BE CAREFULL MSG ME ON MSN I added you to my list i will be here all day feel free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i cant' get this fucking caliper off!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 yeah, they can be a bitch. i didn't use any power tools on my strut bolts, just a 1/2" ratchet handle, a Craftsman socket, and a 2&1/2 foot pipe as a breaker bar. 1st - you'll need to relieve the tension on the leaf spring. this is very important. just use a small hydraulic jack to lift the leaf spring off the knuckle. use a block of wood between the jack and spring to prevent damaging the spring. 2nd - unbolt the lower strut bolts with a 1/2" ratchet handle, a GOOD socket, and a breaker bar. leave the nuts on the end and pound them out. it is very important to leave the nuts on the end while you pound the bolts out because it is easy to damage the threads on the bolt (been there done that) i doubt a rubber mallet will do the trick, but maybe....i know on mine i have to pound the hell out of them to get them to come out. 3rd - unbolt the 2 upper strut bolts. 4th - remove strut. you may have to turn it a little in order to clear the knuckle. btw, you don't have to remove any brake parts when replacing the rear struts. if you are doing a brake job tho, 1st - remove the brake line from the caliper, 2nd - detatch e-brake cable, 3rd - there are 2 bolts behind the caliper that you need to unbolt, i think you need a to use a 3" extension for one bolt, and the other doesn't need one....they are fairly easy to get to tho. 4th - pull the caliper off the rotor. then pull the rotor off... hth joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i cant' get this fucking caliper off!!!!!!! have you already removed the two caliper bolts? is it just stuck on really good or? i've already removed several sets of '94+ brakes in the past few months....let me know - i can help you out... joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i'm going the pound the hell out of it and try various things, brb k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPaganel Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 Instead of pounding, I've had good results with a huge C-clamp and a large socket. You put the socket over the head of the bolt and put the C-clamp around the whole thing. Compressing the clamp pushes the bolt out. You do need to have one big mother of a C-clamp for this, though, and it has to be well-greased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i can't get those 2 large bolts off behind the caliper, thats the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 hmmm....maybe put the socket/ratchet handle on the bolt and put your foot into it? that's what i did. i know they use some sort of blue thread lock. i know that a 3/8" ratchet handle will make the job very difficult...are you using a 1/2" ratchet handle? can you fit a small breaker bar in there? joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i got it, all hail the breaker bar. my strut isn't what was causing the squeaking as my mechanic and i thought. it was the brakes. so i had to go back to autozone and return the strut and tool, and i got a new rotor and pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 IF he's already got the nuts off then just keep pounding at it. Being that the bolts are "splined" they are a pain to get started sometimes. Once started they will go fast. Dont attempt to "turn" them out! If needed, try hammering a big flat bladed screwdriver (or something similar like a crow bar) between the head of the bolt and the strut/knuckle. But before you remove them, did you put the thin long bolt through the auxiliary springs??? they should have come with the new struts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 i have never had this many problems working on my car. now the damn pads won't sit in the caliper. my manual is very vague. how do they go in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 1, 2002 Report Share Posted December 1, 2002 the inner needs to be snapped into that round clip that is on the piston. There's 4 tabs. If it's being a real pain, you could compress the piston back a little. But you shouldnt have to. Just ease it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 i'm ready to fucking give up, those damn fucking pads won't seat properly, fuck, someone help me out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 which pad is screwing around? I can grab the new calipers I have in my closet and check it out. IM me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 I don't even remember having to remove the calipers to do the rear struts! It only took me 40-minutes to swap out both rear struts last time I did it, and I'm sure it would have took longer if I had to pull the calipers. :? Well, it's been 1-1/2 yrs or so, and my memory sucks, so maybe I pulled 'em and just forgot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 Dont really NEED to but he told me he was doing a pad change too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 i was talking with him, he said he was searching for a "SQUEEK" (how the fuck do you spell it, can you quote this in the fuck thread somebody ?? ) he though it was the struts, but it was his brakes, so no strut work was necessary, just needed to change the pads, where i showed hime pics from the 94+ converison page that helped him figure it out, all thanks to shawns pictures, hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted December 2, 2002 Report Share Posted December 2, 2002 I AM A GOD!! LOL JK. Anyway, I'm finished, I got it fixed. I got rid of the ear shattering squeaking, and it brakes a little firmer now. Anyway, how do you increase pressure quickly, I forgot, because I want my pedal to be firmer. Also, I put a new rotor, I prolly didn't need to, but what the hell. Those rears are easy to change. And no, I didn't have to touch the struts at all. How the hell do you change both in 40 min? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.