Where is this darn KNOCK coming from?

[gmrulz4u]

I need some help with my 89 Cutlass Supreme.

 

Last month it all-of-a-sudden started making a "knock, knock, knock" sound sometimes when steering slowly. It makes no noise at all if going straight. Sometimes when turning quickly I will hear a quick "knock" or two but it's not as bad or noticable as it is when I am going slow.

 

Sometimes I can't get it to do it, but I've found out the easiest way to ALWAYS get the noise to happen. First, I park, stop, put the gear shift in Park, wait a minute, then put it in Reverse, back-up slowly with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left, once I am backed-up, put it in Drive, and turn the steering wheel all the way back to the right, then start to accelerate slowly.

 

If I do this, what will happen is that it will "knock" about three or four times while backing-up, and then again when I turn the opposite way and start to move forward. After this, it's pretty much completely random...sometimes it will make a quick single "knock" here or there and sometimes it will be completely silent. But if I always do the above parking and backing-up procedure, it will always do it.

 

When the "knock" happens, I can kind of FEEL it in the floorboard via my feet. I've been in the passenger side while my mechanic was driving and I could FEEL it in my feet on that side as well, even though it SOUNDS like it's coming from the drivers side wheel well.

 

Further more, I took the car to my mechanic of 3 years now and he found that my drivers side ball-joint was worn pretty good. The passenger side one was still in perfect, solid condition. It kind of surprised me because I replaced both ball joints 2.5 years ago and I thought they would last longer than that!? But I thought, "oh well, at least the knocking will be gone". I was wrong! It STILL knocks just like before with the new ball joint!

 

I took it back to him and he raised the car to look underneath. We both looked for about half an hour but couldn't find ANYTHING that would cause it. Everything was nice and 'tight'. Over the past 2 years I've replaced both wheel bearings(hubs), upper strut bearings, ball joints, and tie-rod ends.

 

My mechanic said he honestly doesn't know what the heck it is. He said it could be a worn U-Joint in the axle but said that is still a long possibility.

 

Last month I had both wheel bearings replaced with new ones. What I am trying to think is whether the noise started BEFORE, or AFTER they were replaced...if the noise started AFTER they were replaced, what could the place that installed them done to cause this sudden annoying noise?

 

THANKS!

[slick]

I'm guessing it might be that ball joint. I'd replace it.

[gmrulz4u]

Oh, shoot, I just realized that I didn't make it clear that I DID have it replaced...that's why I thought it would have cured the knock...

 

[slick]

Is your wheel tightened up against your hub, meaning your lugs tight? I had this problem one day, and i knew what it was too. I'm being serious about this too.

[gmrulz4u]

Yeah I actually already went through the whole lug nut thing...I thought it was the fact that they weren't tight enough at first too...but I took it back to the place that did the wheel bearings/hubs and they showed me using a torque wrench that they were definately tight and perfectly at spec...

[90lum31v6euro]

ive got this too!!

 

but it sounds as if its coming from the rear of my car while in reverse...

 

i cant figure it out...

[Slade901]

Check your sub-frame bolts and the round metal plate. Make sure they are tight and torque to specs.

[gp90se]

Sounds like a busted CV joint to me. My blazer does it when i put it in 4x4 because the front CV is busted.

 

-Jeff

[gmrulz4u]

It's just that I always thought that worn CV joints made a CLICKING noise in turns...this is definately not a CLICK sound at all...it's a noticable KNOCK...sounds just like KNOCKING on a wooden door...

[mihela816]

It's just really worn out. Maybe some dirt got into the boot and wore down the bearings.

[gmrulz4u]

And let me guess...replacing an axle will cost me like $1,000!? I've read that almost never do you replace the CV joints themselves...you almost always just buy an entirely re-built axle shaft instead...

[mihela816]

Replacing an axle yourself isn't hard at all.

[gmrulz4u]

Yeah but how much do they cost? In terms of parts, not labor?

[mihela816]

Usually there is a core charge but without I think it is somewhere around $60-70 US

[MaroonRegal]

I thought this was a common problem...can't remember what it is anymore...something with where the steering column connects to the axle maybe?

[gmrulz4u]

What!!?? For an entire axle/half-shaft or whatever it's called, it only cost $70!!?? Why does GM list them new for like $600?

[mihela816]

I am pretty sure, I will go check, I live a block from the parts store

[gp90se]

Because GM charges to much for damn near everything :?

Autozone gets $75 a pop new, and Theres a few members with extra axles, put up a post in the for sale section.

 

BTW: my buddy who works for caddy needed a 1/2 shaft, his parts people told em to go aftermarket cauz there just as good.

 

-Jeff

[mihela816]

I'm back. They were 59.95 a piece with ABS, exchange.

[god910]

Chrysler wants $600 for a 95 Jeep front axle. Can be had for ~$100 new at a parts store. (W/ ABS)

[Guest TurboSedan]

Autozone gets $75 a pop new, and Theres a few members with extra axles, put up a post in the for sale section.

 

 

-Jeff

 

yeah but considering the cost of shipping a 1 or 2 axles, it is probably a better idea to just buy new & buy local instead, unless the axles are free or almost free.

[90lum31v6euro]

Check your sub-frame bolts and the round metal plate. Make sure they are tight and torque to specs.

 

u mean up front, under the engine?

 

ill do that, but the knock sounds like its coming from the back end of my car, and it gets loud sometimes