Guest TurboSedan Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 i am using a stock 5-speed pedal setup, IOW no cut brake pedal. i would just cut the brake pedal shorter if i were you, because swapping out the brake pedal is a real PITA, trust me. my pedals (sorry about the CC module being in the way): http://www.turbosedan.com/pedals.html wow that's some dirty carpet huh Quote
jheiv Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 ever thought about aftermarket pedal cover sets to hide the cut brake pedal? Quote
brian89gp Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 Stock the clutch should sit 1" above the brake. I assume that you ground out the round hole in the firewall to a square one? If you did that is your problem, the round hole is at a slant while the square hole is flat on the firewall. This puts the master cylinder at a slight downward angle throwing off the geometry of it all. 5spd: http://www.brian89gp.com/images/5spd/right3.jpg auto: http://www.brian89gp.com/images/5spd/right4.jpg It will work you will just have less throw on the slave cylinder. When the master cylinder starts to go bad you will notice it much sooner. Quote
Guest TurboSedan Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 hmmm, i never knew about that! mine works just fine tho, and i don't even push the clutch pedal down all the way when i shift. i could probably push the clutch pedal down another 2-3" before it hits bottom. Quote
brian89gp Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 Yea, as long as the master cylinder is in good shape it will work just fine. When the master starts going bad it will start disengaging further and further down till you can't press it any further. I know, been there. I actually blew out my master and it was leaking down on the inside. Compared to the alternative of swapping that plate, I would say if it is drivable then live with it. To swap the plate you have to pull the entire interior out which is the most horrible thing I have had to do. Quote
god910 Posted April 26, 2004 Report Posted April 26, 2004 Yeah, but then you can goto vac. brakes easily(ish). Now I understand why people don't do the brake swap while doing the 5 speed swap. I thought you HAD to change out the brake pedal assy. for a 5 speed brake assy. Now I know. If I ever do a 5 speed swap from scratch I would change over to vac. brakes and change the panel. (I'm an idiot by the way.) 8) Quote
midstar Posted April 27, 2004 Report Posted April 27, 2004 Mine is about 2 inches behind the brake petal. I took out that plate to grind the hole square. I wish I would of know that. I miss a lot of shifts because my clutch doesn't fully disengage. Quote
brian89gp Posted April 27, 2004 Report Posted April 27, 2004 Trust me, its a real bitch. the entire dash has to come out, the heater core and a/c connection on the firewall undone. The brake bootser and master cylinder removed. Steering column comes out. The climate control airbox on the interior needs unbolted from the firewall, and then and only then you can sorta slide the plate out. http://www.brian89gp.com/images/5spd/right6.jpg this is actually after I started putting it back together. Quote
brian89gp Posted April 27, 2004 Report Posted April 27, 2004 http://www.brian89gp.com/misc/zips/5spd_correct_way.zip Thats all the pics I took of it. I counted and it was around 25 hours of work to swap that plate. The notch cut in the pipe is what is required to put a 91-93 pedal mount bracket into a 94-96 car. Quote
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