Lee Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 Is this an easy one day change out....then take in for alignment? Or is it as much trouble as ball joints? I'm not equipped for big tool repairs. Can you describe the steps? Thankx.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 Is this an easy one day change out....then take in for alignment? Or is it as much trouble as ball joints? I'm not equipped for big tool repairs. Can you describe the steps? Thankx.. As long as you scribe a white paint on the outer tie rod end and the threads, you don't have to get it for alignment. You can make an additional step to make sure that you put back the new tire rod end by measuring the distance of the outer tie rod end to the center or middle thread. You can also count the number of turns when you remove the outer tie rod end. First, jack up the front side of the outer tire rod end that you are going to remove (loosen only the tire lug nuts first). Remove the tires and turn the wheels so that the outer tire rod end is exposed closer outward. Remove the cotter pin from the tire rod end nut. You need either a two jaw puller or a tire rod puller. (Don't use a fork type tire rod remover). You can rent (charge) /return (refund/free) the two jaw puller or tire rod puller from Autozone. Screw in the new outer tire rod end and count the number of turns or remember the distance of the outer tire rod end to the center of the thread or screw in the outer tire rod end until it you reach the scribe marks you did on the thread previously. Align the outer tire rod end to the arm hole of the suspension and put the nut. You need a torque wrench when doing this to make sure you are tightening the nut to the require torque specs. If the hole for the cotter pin is not visible, it is alright to tighten it up more to align the holes so the cotter pin can go in. "Do Not back up the nut to align the holes for the cotter pin to go in." You may have to grease the tire rod end with a grease gun. The rest of the installation is the opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 Mine was just a bolt on.. took a couple hours to get the old bitch off, but definately get it done in one day. Even if you get it on and its close you should still get the alignment checked cause it could be off a little bit and wear your tires unevenly. I've changed a balljoint myself too so yeah I know that one is much more of a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 How can you tell if an outer tie rod is bad as opposed to the inner tie rod being bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 How can you tell if an outer tie rod is bad as opposed to the inner tie rod being bad? Just look at it while you push on the tire, or with the tire off. It was pretty easy to tell that the outter was bad. I only did the drivers side on mine cause the pass side looked fine however it needed a balljoint. I haven't had problems with inner tie rod so I dunno about that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 I know that, but about 2 years ago I was told my inner tie rod was bad when I went to the dealership for an alignment. But, it has symptoms of an outer tie rod, grab the tire at 3 & 9 and it wiggles before the steering turns. I was just wondering if there was a to tell if the inner tie rod was bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 When I changed my outer tierod I had to use a torch to get the PITA off! Its not that hard of a fix, but you need the proper tool(pickle fork). BTW a mechanic told me that the inner tierods on these w-bodys dont fail too often. Nevertheless these are nothing to prolong if you know what I mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted April 26, 2004 Report Share Posted April 26, 2004 my mechanic told me that you disconnect the outer tierod from the knucle. If the tierod falls when you lift it, then the inner needs to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 26, 2004 Report Share Posted April 26, 2004 Pitman arm puller is easier than a pickle fork to remove the outer tierod. A few twists of its bolt and the tierod pops right out. Pitman arm pullers are around $8. Better yet, the proper GM tool does both tierods and balljoints. I have one, and I love it! Makes swapping knuckles super easy. Costs $90, but I've used it a lot swapping knuckles around (don't ask). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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