god910 Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 Okay, so as it sits: It ran fine, broke, replaced injetors, ran okay except for WOT, replaced plugs and wires, ran fine but wouldn't build boost, checked for boosty ability (technical term) by removing hose from sol. actuator, got boost, tapped on sol. and wiggled plug, GOT BOOST!!!!! Drove home, have boost, and NO misfire, me happy. THEN I went outside to take out the trash and move a bush that I unassed w/ a chainsaw, puddle of coolant 2 days long in the driveway. Started car, heated upto 220 w/ no fans of any kind. ME VERY ANGRY!!!! :x :gone2far: :yikes: :flip: :bawl: :dammit: :cuss: :verymad: :guns: Seems like as SOON as I fix something it tells something else in the chain to break. SO, I'm gonna go through the paces tomorrow, but if I can't get this damn thing to work, I'm unna switch it. A few questions to arm myself w/: which sensor tell the fan(s) to turn on? Is is the sensor in the rad. or the one below the T-stat? Which one runs the gauge, because it reads right. I WILL HAVE THIS CAR AT THE STRIP ON SAT. SO I CAN GET A DECENT TIME!!!!! Tips/hints/ideas/wags/tricks/throwmeafrigginbonehere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 I think you should donate that problematic TGP to me. Anyways, the sensor below the t-stat(the actual "engine coolant temperature" sensor) controls the fans and whatnot...the smaller sensor in the right side(looking from front of the car) of the head that usually/always has a green wire running from it is the temp sending unit for your gauge cluster. The sensor in the radiator is what lights up the "low coolant" dummy light on the gauge cluster. EDIT: Meant to say the "right side of the REAR head" :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 Probly when you were at the rear changing plugs...you accedently pull off the relays wires or the rear heads watter temp sensor....right on the conner by the PowerMaster. Theres also one by the Thermostat housing on the bottom(the one you metined looks like the one that sets of the fans). The one on the rad is prob the the coolant level and corositivity sensor. If I remember right...the fan relay is the one with a thick red wire and black/red wire. I short the two to make sure the fan works. If it does...then I start trouble shooting. Pull on the fuse links by the relays to see if any feel "lose" or if they strech. Ground the relays switch to turn it on manualy to see if the relay works (with the car on). Its the thin darkgreen/white wire. that should set it off. The secondary fans relay switch is the Darkblue/white. You should hear a tic. If the fan doen't turn on..then replace the relay. If now you found that the fan works/ the relay works and there is power... Then inspect the coolant sensors. Check the wires and the connections. If it looks good...and still doen't work...then replace them. If that doen't work...then the ECMs relay switcher is faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted April 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2004 Okay, I might have overlooked an easy way to tell what wrong w/ it. In theory (I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams yet) the sensor on the back head can't be a fan switch. It's only one wire, which means it only has 2 settings ON and OFF. But, since the fans set points are adjustable, it has to be a different sensor. The one in the rear head (green connector) is for the ? Then the one under the T-stat runs the fans and the guage from a ref. voltage to the ECM? Matt, how could the rear sensor be for the gauge, it's only got one wire (Which= heats up and makes contact closing circuit???) I'm just guessing here. Anyhow, TODAY, I checked all the connectors and they are all in good shape and connected. I pulled the relay and used a jumper wire to bridge 85 & 86. The fan turns on. So, I know the fan is good and then I tried a known good relay. I started the car and the fan never turned on. So, now I'm still looking at sensors, or ECM? Possibly wiring, but w/ all the weird stuff going on, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the computer. Luckily I have 3 TGP's, which makes for a TON (2 trunks FULL and a shed 1/2 full) of extra parts. I will try the ECM from Sunshine if all else fails. Does anyone know where I can get an always closed relay locally? Ie, whenever it's plugged in, it completes the circuit. That would be good enough to get me down the strip tomorrow, which is my main concern right now (NOT my daily driver) TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted April 17, 2004 Report Share Posted April 17, 2004 YOu could check to see if the ecm is good or bad by unplugging the coolant temp sensor right by the thermostat housing and GROUNDING the Yellow wire. Turn the car on and the fan should turn on. Try the head sensor too just to make sure. You can do a temperar fix by connecting the fuel pump relay and the fan relay inputs together. So as soon as the car is on the fan is on. Bridge a wire from the fan relays Darkgreen/white wire to the fuel pumps relays Darkgreen/white wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted April 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2004 Another quite intersting thing I noticed while I was working in there. On one of the fan blades it reads (in paint marker) 90 GP 2.3L So this guy pulled a fan out of a 2.3L GP and it cools just as good as the stocker lemme tell ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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