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amp/sub recommendations


ismellrealbad

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Ok i want to know what everyone would recommend for me

I want a good strong amp, nothing weak and a single 10" sub in a ported enclosure. I kinda want 2 10s but ill stick with just one. reason i dont want 12s is cuz id rather have much clearer, smoother bass which is what i'd assume you'd loose by getting larger sub.

I dont really want to spend more than 400-500 on this but for the purpose finding a good product gimme amps that would range at most around 400 and subs w/ported box for 100 -200 bucks. ill look for them on ebay to get everything down to my range. I know what i want i just dont know anything about whats on the market and there are just so many products i dont wanna end up with something that blows

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i like the performance of kicker comp, but i am not a die hard, i got a 12" with a week asssssss amp 200W my ass :roll: but i am gonna get 2 12", take the rear seats out make a box in the trunk, point the speakers forward, put plexy glass over top of the openings, and see how it sounds, thats my May/summer 2003 project :twisted:

 

What you guys think about kicker comp, and what do you guys think about having 2 different brand subs, i still gotta buy one.

 

Chao

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I have 2 JL Audio 10w3's driven with a Precision Power A600 (600 true watts) in one car and 1 JL Audio 10w1 with a Precision Power A300 in the other. That being said I could only recommend Precision Power (PPI) Amp with JL Audio subs.

 

Since you want a ported enclosure JL makes boxes ready to go. Check out the Band Pass or H.O Wedge.

 

As far as the amp, you can find used PPI Art Amps on Ebay. Look for A100, A200, A300, A600, and if your are crazy A1200. All numbers represent the wattage bridged at 11-15 VDC with a 4-ohm load.

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In my 94 GP, I have 2 12" Planet Audio P12 4 ohm subs powered by a infinity beta 300 class D amp. My head unit is a Sony MP70. I love my set-up. The subs hit hard as hell and even with my factory speakers (which really suck) the head unit sounds really awsome. I go great deals on the amp, subs, and deck. the amp was brand new and i got it for 300 dollars and it was around 700-800 new. the deck is about 500 dollars and i got it installed for 420 bucks. :D and the subs i got for 160 apiece when they can go for as much as 240 apiece. Try and check these items out. i got SQ and SPL. The 12's have good response and are not sloppy at all. My amp is also awesome, so that helps. Your amp plays a huge part in whether your subs sound good. The subs are rated at 350 RMS and 600 Max. I have them getting 300 RMS right now. I'm very happy with them. O, and about the kicker comps, good subs also. i wanted to get kickers, but my amp put out too much power for them. the solo baric's were too expensive.

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Personally, I'd spend the money on performance enhancing gear, not adding heavy power sucking stereo gear, Just an opinion, remember every 100 pounds added/subtracted means 1/10 lost or gained in the 1/4

 

Big stereo also makes your ride a magnet for thieves.

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Personally, I'd spend the money on performance enhancing gear, not adding heavy power sucking stereo gear, Just an opinion, remember every 100 pounds added/subtracted means 1/10 lost or gained in the 1/4

 

Big stereo also makes your ride a magnet for thieves.

 

LOL. You forget what kind of car im driving here. I'd be lucky to pull an 18sec 1/4mi here in my 2.8 megapowerplant with hyper type R and VTEC mods. The car has plenty of power off the line and thats all i want. Plus ill be getting a hi flo cat and chip for it before i do the stereo so thats about all the performance this things gunna get. I do agree with you that with a system the car is more likley to be busted into, but i live in a pretty good area. Ive never ever had anything stolen out of my car, any car ive driven. im in the habit of always locking the doors. When i do get behind the wheel again i drive a lot, a real lot, and i just wanna be bumpin to some good tunes :)

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JL audio makes great subs and amps. You can't go wrong with any of their products. The W0 subs sound good and don't take a whole lot of power (125 watts). They might be durable enough if you really beat them up though. I would go with them before a Comp though.

 

As far as Kicker goes, I'd check out the Comp VR series instead of the Comps. They sound better, handle more power, have dual voice coils, and are more durable than the comps. If you are looking for a decent amp to run a Comp VR, look at a Coustic 400 at Circuit City. Coustics are inexpensive but they do what they say they do. They'd be better than a cheap MTX, cheap Fosgate, cheap Sony or a cheap Pioneer in my opinion. The sub should be $150 and the amp should be about $300, if not less. You might be able to get out the door for about $500 with a wiring kit and a box.

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well i have had my system for 3 years and still bumpin good. I have 2 10inch mtx 4000 or sumfin like that the all black ones. I also have a 600 watt kenwood amp. I got them in seperate q logic boxes.

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ok now with the same amp can i power one and or two subs if i decide to do so? also lets say i have a 250 watt sub and i havea 600watt rms amp is the sub guna handle that or is that really overpowering it....what if i have two 250 watt subs in the same amp?

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I like my older kicker comp (C10c-4) in a .95 cubic foot sealed box.

 

Sounds okay with only 70 watts (bridged channels 3-4 from my puny Alpine MRV-F250 amp) and hits 117db@42hz. (Used a Radio Shack meter and a home-made test-tone CD, so that number is suspect.)

 

The bottom end is a bit boomy, but a slightly larger box would help out tremendously. (I'm too cheap to fix it!)

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ok now with the same amp can i power one and or two subs if i decide to do so? also lets say i have a 250 watt sub and i havea 600watt rms amp is the sub guna handle that or is that really overpowering it....what if i have two 250 watt subs in the same amp?

 

That's really overpowering it.

 

If you have two subs, make sure the amp can handle the decreased impedance. Wiring two four-ohm subs in parallel yields a two-ohm load to the amp. Plus, you have the added benefit of drawing MORE power from the amp. So your amp is now sending (theoretically, at least) 1200 watts to your two speakers that can handle 500 combined.

 

You could wire them in series (giving 8 ohms) and only get 300 watts out of the amp (150 to each sub), but that's counterproductive.

 

You could get four four-ohm 250w power-handling speakers and wire them in series/parallel and get a four-ohm load AND 1000 watts power handling total, but you might as well buy one or two higher-quality speakers to begin with. :)

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I currently have an Alpine A240X amp bridging 500 watts into a Cerwin Vega 10"... my friend heard it in the bathroom of a gas station, so I guess it bumps pretty good. However, if your looking for REAL performance, I've heard of a sub that will supposedly blow one that everyone has heard of out of the water. I think just about everybody knows about the JL Audio 13W7, supposed to be one of the most powerful subs on the market, but it's not made for power as much as it is cleanliness of the bass. A new brand called SPL is supposed to make a 12 that absolutely makes the JL sound like a 4" sub or something. Might want to check them out, I know that they make 10" and 12" in those types of subs. I can also get a friend of mine to order them for cheap if anyone would like that too. Get back to me for some info.

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i would suggest a kicker L7 10 and a jbl 600.1 for it would sound sweet as hell however the brahma is one of the sweetest subs going i will have one power by my JBL 1200.1 i cant wait if i can hit a 142.9 with a older rockford fosgate punch hx2 with the 1200.1 then i can sure as shit hit higher with a better sub oh yeah i was meter yesterday with my power acoustik mofo 146.7db at the dash 150 signal sub here i come

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