slick Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 I keep getting a code 53, which is the EGR system. But, according to 4spdz34 (person i bought the car off of), the FFP chip that he has installed has the engine working without the EGR, and he did the EGR delete. But, the code doesn't make sense to what my car is doing. I started it up this morning, and the volt gauge shot up to about 17, and held there. After a while, the SES light would come on. Also, the car will surge every once in a while too, but mainly when the volt gauge is reading really high. Now, it doesn't do this all the time. It mainly does then when its a little bit colder out, or if its wet out. Also, coming home last night, the car died on me twice . I was thinking about putting the stock computer chip back in, but I would think that the car would run even worse than what it is running. But, these symptoms are only intermitantly, and don't happen all the time either. So, whats your thoughts on this. I'm close to taking it into a garage and having them look at it, but i figured i would give a shot on here first. Also, he said the alternator is new too, so I'm hoping its not that, but it could be(hope not). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachz34 Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 I'm not too sure about the EGR thing. My car still has the EGR valve in it, but I also got a chip from FFP... and I had the EGR disabled. Ever since I put the chip in... no more codes are being thrown. Not sure why yours still does it. About the voltage jump... that would kinda scare me personally. How long does the gauge show 17 volts? Long enough that you could pop the hood and hook up a multimeter to the battery to see what the true reading is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 Oh yeah, it will read about 17-18 volts for about 5-6 minutes, then it will feel like the torque convertor locked up (the rpms will drop too) and the voltage gauge will drop to normal range (about 14 volts). Yeah, i'm not sure why it would be throwing the EGR code if it was disabled on the chip. Its starting to make me wonder if the chip is going bad. :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokesGTP Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 It could be the chip that's what I was thinking. Welcome to the wonderful world of the LQ1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 Hmmm... Hopefully Josh gets on here soon, he should know best (this was his car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 53 is not egr, 32 is. 53 normally means a overcharging prob, which is what u have. that car would do that to me under the same symptoms, mostly wet. get a service manual or i can look in mine tonight, but go ahead and see if it gives any pointers. and the cruise is prob not working cause there is a hose that goes behind the engine, from the map sensor to the battery area. that line with a bolt in it used to go to the vacuum ball that i pulled off when i had a cold air intake in there. i still have it somewhere. if i find anything i will post and let ya know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 Hmmm... I was just going by what the Haynes manual said (5 flashes, pause, then 3 flashes). Haynes probably won't give any tips on it, but i'll check the tensioner, who knows, maybe the belt is loose or something (but that still wouldn't make sense). Is that vacuum ball part of the cruise control system? If not, don't worry about it. I'll try to track down where that hose for the cruise control goes, im gonna need it for next weekend(heading to Farmington Hills to visit my mom). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegeta Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 Chip wont go bad unless you shock it or smash it with a hammer. That ball is for cruise control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 that ball is for hvac and cruise, it supplies vaccum when the engine makes none, i.e. WOT or when the car is not running. u don't really need it. all its gunna do is insure that the mode doors on your hvac aren't going to move under WOT. who cares then and your not using cruise then or at WOT. no use to me, just another part in the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 Well, get a shipping price, and i'll send you up the money for that ball. I need cruise bad, 3 hours of straight driving with no cruise (or stereo for that matter, when i drove it home) sucks. Atleast this time, i will have people with me, and music to listen to, but cruise makes life so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 when u took the car the cruise was working i tested evrything the day before, unless a fuse blew, check the fuse and for a line that goes right behind the plenum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heza Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 car dying huh? my GTP does that every once and a while...just acts goofy. i tell her i love her and she acts nice. the LQ1 is a great motor, just gotta baby it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 car dying huh? my GTP does that every once and a while...just acts goofy. i tell her i love her and she acts nice. the LQ1 is a great motor, just gotta baby it! Thats great, positive reinforcement is the best thing u can do for ya w-body. If the chip has the EGR disabled, pull the thing off, cut a piece of sheet metal for a blockoff plate and plug the exhaust hole. -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 could it be that you are using a 95 engine w/93 wiring? the chips werent made for 95, as of yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heza Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 car dying huh? my GTP does that every once and a while...just acts goofy. i tell her i love her and she acts nice. the LQ1 is a great motor, just gotta baby it! Thats great, positive reinforcement is the best thing u can do for ya w-body. If the chip has the EGR disabled, pull the thing off, cut a piece of sheet metal for a blockoff plate and plug the exhaust hole. -Jeff you like that positive reinforcement? my car has only done it a couple times since ive owned it. usually happens when it just sits for a while. hasnt done it for a while now though. i do think my starter is about to go out though so i gotta baby her in that aspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 Well, i was looking at my Haynes last night, and i found something i missed. Code 53 is also overcharging, so i read up on what to check and look for. Theres allready and egr block plate installed on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 car dying huh? my GTP does that every once and a while...just acts goofy. i tell her i love her and she acts nice. the LQ1 is a great motor, just gotta baby it! Thats great, positive reinforcement is the best thing u can do for ya w-body. -Jeff you like that positive reinforcement? my car has only done it a couple times since ive owned it. usually happens when it just sits for a while. hasnt done it for a while now though. i do think my starter is about to go out though so i gotta baby her in that aspect. Hmm.. I usually go by the philosophy that cursing at the car yields better performance. You gotta show the fucker who's boss. :cuss: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 i didn't have time to look it up yet, but u should know the old motor with a totally different alt, the older style. did the same thing. weeird thing is it started the day after i blew the motor. i came outside and the foglamps were on(u need ignition feed to turn them on) the alram was chirping and the trunk was open. i was like what the f*ck. don't take it to a shop they don't know jack. o u should also know that i rewired that alt at the dealer from computer to alt caus ei belived the wiring to be bad, but that didn't fix the overcharging. i still believe that alarm is the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShockTherapy Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 Hmm.. I usually go by the philosophy that cursing at the car yields better performance. You gotta show the fucker who's boss. :cuss: damn straight. i talked to my regal told her i loverd her, and she grenades herself, i yell at, and kick my saturn, she runs like a top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EurosportZ34 Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 I love my LQ1!!!! The SES light in mine comes on every once in a while also. And just recently the Anti-Lock light has been coming on every once in a while too. I have no noticeable changes, just that the lights come on. The Anti-Lock light generates the following codes:36, 66. Any ideas? We should have a separate LQ1 problems topic, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 Well, heres the update on the situation. The voltage regulator was sticking, probably causing the car to die(to prevent it from overloading). So, i'm getting it in to get it fixed , because theres no way in hell im gonna tackle a job like that with the time i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 so your getting a new alt? send me back the old one its gm 1 year warranty i have the recepit. i would send u the recipt but i got a discount on it so i have to return it. i will send u back a new one cause thats just dumb shit. o and remember that car take a 95 alt. cause 93 is different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 o i researched it in some gm archives cause i have never heard of it, i also asked a few mechanics who are old. there is nothing on it at gm and the last time my dad has seen it was in the late 70's early 80's. gm alts don't have a problem with sticking regulators, its not even possible. the only way it can happen is if there is a short going to the alt. but as i told u before the motor before this one had the same problem on a totally different alt. so i still say its a wireing prob somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted April 4, 2004 Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 to find your ABS codes: http://www.techweasel.com/articles/troublecode/GM.htm#syty%20brake%20codes 36: Left Rear Speed Sensor Circuit - No signal and 41 - 66: 4WAL Control Unit or Motor Circuit - Check for loose ground at motor circuit or faulty ECHU valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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