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Just for those of you that are intersted, I changed out my original front springs in my 1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme. I put in the newer FUX springs from a 1996 Cutlass coupe. When I took out one of the original springs, I compared it to the FUX spring. WOWEE!!!!! The original spring is about 2 inches TALLER, and has about 2 more coils than the FUX spring. Now, I no longer have the problem of my car being taller in the front than in the rear. The FUX springs made the front and rear even with one another, and the ride actually feels better. The car feels like it recovers from bumps faster than they did with the old springs. The next time I look, I will get the original spring code.

 

Taylor

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I want stiff, but after going through the hassel that I did to put in STOCK springs, I do not think that I am going to try to do it with GEN 1.5 springs. I do not plan on lowering the car. I just wanted the front to be EVEN with the rear. Not, HIGHER liike it has been since I got the car.

 

Taylor

 

I am also VERY pleased with how the car rides now.

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I want stiff, but after going through the hassel that I did to put in STOCK springs, I do not think that I am going to try to do it with GEN 1.5 springs. I do not plan on lowering the car. I just wanted the front to be EVEN with the rear. Not, HIGHER liike it has been since I got the car.

 

Taylor

 

I am also VERY pleased with how the car rides now.

 

FYI the Front springs are a direct swap. it lowered my car about 1.5". my ass was sagging on my lumina bad.. these springs sat my car level with the rear.. maybe even a tiny bit lower to give it a nice slight rake.. but eather way the are a direct swap just like the ones you did.. I dunno what FUX springs are so i just wanted to add the ST springs are a direct swap.

 

RedZ

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I wasn't too sure about using the GEN 1.5 springs. I have heard mixed on whether or not they would work. One if my friends put the lowing kit on his car, so I had his old FUX (FE3) springs lying around, and he gave me permission to use them, so I did. I figured that was a lot easier than going to the junkyard and trying to get the springs off of a Monte without power tools (I am too cheap to buy them new. Saving the money for the new motor).

 

Taylor

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I want stiff, but after going through the hassel that I did to put in STOCK springs, I do not think that I am going to try to do it with GEN 1.5 springs. I do not plan on lowering the car. I just wanted the front to be EVEN with the rear. Not, HIGHER liike it has been since I got the car.

 

Taylor

 

I am also VERY pleased with how the car rides now.

 

FYI the Front springs are a direct swap. it lowered my car about 1.5". my ass was sagging on my lumina bad.. these springs sat my car level with the rear.. maybe even a tiny bit lower to give it a nice slight rake.. but eather way the are a direct swap just like the ones you did.. I dunno what FUX springs are so i just wanted to add the ST springs are a direct swap.

 

RedZ

 

FUX springs are probably the best FE3 spring you could use with the standard motor. That coupled with an ODK rear spring and Big stabilizers A stiffer strut along the lines of Reflex, Reactec, or the GR2, and running down to a 2255516 tire or even to a 2355016 on a 6.5-7inch wheel will give literally flat and snappy handling with stock rubber isolators. Using the 8 inch wide GP wheel with 255 50 16 would probably be more than one would want the car starts to get that cheap annoying ride, handling yes but a really crappy ride, almost like driving in a metro. As far as being low using FUX and ODK, The car does drop but it looks civilzed about an inch or less of gap between the trim and the wheel with 2256016. This setup got the right spring rate to keep the car snap responsive and totally gripped over iregularites as so not to slideout because of over stiffness while still retaining full variable cruising comfort. I remeber when somone on this board mentioned about fish tailing because he put in that damn near 1inch sway bar in the back...that's not handling. Maybe for a rear drive car with 325 ft lbs of torque under full power coming out of a sharp turn at 25 mph, but not for a FWD car. The monoleaf acts as a rear stabilzer as well as holding up the car and dampening, thats why there isn't a huge rear bar in the back.

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Hey Taylor

 

Did you originally have FE3 springs, if so what code was it. If not I think that's why you got so much of a drop. I have a 91 Z34(stock) and I have parked next to other Lumina's and they are more than 2"s higher than mine. My Z34 has the BPY in front and the RFH in the rear, but I am replacing my fronts with Suspension Techniques.

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My car has NO FE-designation. I thought that it did, but when I checked the sticker, it is not there. If you look in the 1988 Service Manual, it is not listed in there either. Only FE2, and FE3.

 

My original springs were appearantly exclusive to 1988 seeing that I can't find them in any service manual with the exception of the 1988 Manual. I was originally looking in a 1989 Manual for all of my information, and when I couldn't find it in either the Cutlass Supreme Manual, OR the Grand Prix manual, as well as a 1990 Cutlass Manual, I bought me a 1988 manual. I can't remember what it is. Tomorrow, I will try to figure it out again. I wrote down every option on my sticker, but I had about 3 of them that are not listed. I found out which one is the spring code, but I can't remember, so I will try to get it tomorrow.

 

Taylor

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91GranSport

 

Look in the trunk under the carpet for a factory sticker. It will list all the option codes. Or go to the Dealer and have the Parts Dept. print out the details of your Vin #.

 

Look for a code that starts with FE (FE1, FE2, or FE3). Below is the best reference I have seen. You can even find the details of the actual springs.

 

http://www.w-body.com/index2.html & check under spring code charts.

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Guest TurboSedan
I remeber when somone on this board mentioned about fish tailing because he put in that damn near 1inch sway bar in the back...that's not handling. Maybe for a rear drive car with 325 ft lbs of torque under full power coming out of a sharp turn at 25 mph, but not for a FWD car. The monoleaf acts as a rear stabilzer as well as holding up the car and dampening, thats why there isn't a huge rear bar in the back.

 

i believe that was me, and i wasn't implying that that was handling. i was simply pushing the limits of my car to get some before & after comparisons. i also don't have the monoleaf anymore, i have TDC coilovers. that Addco bar did a TON to help with handling tho.

joshua

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I have the Addco with my monoleaf, and I would say I consider it an improvement in handling. The rear does fishtail if I take a corner very fast on a rainy day, but the fishtailing whips me around the corner and I still end up where I want to go. These cars understeer ridiculous amounts (IMO). Without the Addco, I used to end up plowing straight ahead and end up exactly where I DON'T want to go. In fact, practically every time if I'd start into a turn too fast and have to hit the brakes, I'd end up plowing STRAIGHT AHEAD regardless of how I have the front wheels turned.

 

When pushing the car HARD through a tight turn, would you rather oversteer and fishtail a bit, or understeer and end up plowing straight ahead? If plowing straight ahead is your cup of tea, don't get the Addco, but I've been in too many close calls from plowing straight ahead so for me the Addco is a welcome improvement.

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