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Can't figure out how to get coils off my TSTE. HELP!!/UPDATE


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Posted

My TSTE has been gradually running worse and worse. It has come to the point where it is running on only 4 or 5 cylinders. So I decided to pull all of the coils and replace them. So I started to pull them off, and can't figure out how to get to the bottom bolts. Do I have to remove the whole module or what??? If so, how do i do that. I am very confused and want to get this done ASAP. Please help!!!

 

Shawn

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Take the whole thing off, module and coils. There are 3 13 mm bolts. 1 on each side and 1 underneath. Don't bother putting the bottom one back in. It's a pain to get out and even worse to get back in. As long as you get the other 2 tight it'll be fine.

 

Don't forget to disconnect the 3 plugs for the module. Unplug them before unbolting anything.

Posted

I'm confused here. My coils are held on by 6 7/32 screws, two in each of the coils, and that pins the ICM to the heat sink on the front part of the motor. I didn't see any 13mm bolts. What are you thinking of?

 

I used a combination of 1/4 in rachet and several extensions to get my coils off. They are much easier to remove without the turbo oil/coolant lines, but since you're turboed, use all the combinations of extensions available to you. I found it easier to remove the wiring harness and actually disconnect the starter and move the wires out of the way. I think it's a 15mm nut on the starter wires. Start with the 1st coil on the passenger side, I found it easiest that way, and then work to the right. They are a PITA to get off, and make sure you have your ignition module tested before you put it all back together, because let me tell you from experience, you don't want to do it twice.

Posted

What redturbo90 was saying was take the entire asy off, coils module and alum plate thats bolted to the . Three bolts and you have the entire asy off. :) Good time to have your module checked so you know thats not the problem.

 

Either way it's a bitch. After several coil replacements i finally moved mine. Best thin I ever did. :wink:

 

Jud

Posted
Don't bother putting the bottom one back in. It's a pain to get out and even worse to get back in. As long as you get the other 2 tight it'll be fine

A-FUCKING-MEN BROTHER!!!! I can r&r the whole think in about 15 min. now. I do plan on moving them though, also to get them outta that heat. Jud, did you have to extend the wires alot, or are they pretty long once you get the harness apart?

Posted

Thanks for all the help. I just removed the 13mm bolts and took the whole thing off. I put on the new coils and put it back in. Pretty simple and straightforward, you just have to know what you need to do. Luckily, someone had obviously done it before and the bottom bolt wasn't even there :twisted: , making it even easier.

 

But, that helped the car in no way shape or form. It still isn't running on all cylinders. That was a waste of a perfectly good $60. I don't know what the hell the problem could be now. It has new plugs and wires on it too (as of a couple months ago).

 

You guys are saying the module could be the problem...How & where do I get that checked at???

 

UPDATE(same problem!):A few days ago my TSTE started having a noticable loss in power. I came to the conclusion that it was only running on 4 or 5 cylinders. (i'm thinking 5 though) Also, I'm only averaging about 12mpg...and it gets about 20mpg on the freeway...pretty friggin shitty. It had new plugs and wires about 3,000 miles ago, and I installed ignition coils earlier today, and it didn't get any better. That pretty much eliminates all of the simple stuff.

Any ideas/suggestions of what it could be? I'm out of ideas, unless its something major...which if it is I'll be PISSED.

 

Thanks,

 

Shawn

Posted
It's either the module or crank sensor.

 

 

BINGO!! 8) It was SAID here already that while the module was off to have it tested for free! At times it can also be ECM grounds which anyone down near the crank sensor should remove, clean and reattach these ECM grounds!! If the injector's ohms have dropped really bad, and more than one, this can overload the injector driver, but after running a time this way, the engine will shut down/hard start if at all! KNOW that there is no money really wasted in replacing parts, these are all 14-15 years old parts so no real loss if it does not fix the main problem, get them replaced now, unless you want to have problems later and come back here bummin :oops: Also running issues can be a combination of problems not just one part.

 

Good luck, and I condensed your 2 posts here as the topic and author were the same, we will still see it, a lot of us ARE looking for your updates such as it was fixed so lets hope soon for you 8) :D !

 

Jeff M

Posted
It's either the module or crank sensor.

 

Or it could be a bad spark plug wire...now I feel stupid. I started looking further into it, and I pulled off all 3 of the spark plug wires, and 2 of them came off just fine, and the other one the boot just came off but the wire was still connected. I got the wire off the plug eventually and took the plug out and it was just soaked in gas. So I put in a new plug (had some lying around, and didn't feel like cleaning that one or see the need to put it back in dirty), and grabbed one of the stock wires from the GTP and connected it. Then I pulled the other front plugs and they both looked normal, so I put in new plugs there as well (may as well), and put the wires back on. Started the car up and it runs great, and on all 6 cylinders!!! Stepped on the gas, smoke rolled off the front tires like it should! I actually think it is running a little better than it did before I started having the problem, so the coils may have been going bad anyways.

 

Thanks for all the help with the coils, and your suggestoins of what the problem could be. I really appreciate it!

 

Shawn

Guest Anonymous
Posted
At times it can also be ECM grounds which anyone down near the crank sensor should remove, clean and reattach these ECM grounds!!

 

 

You trying to be a comedian? Those grounds are such a pain in the arse to get on. When I put the motor in my 89 SE I was having a problem with the radio cutting out. Started checking grounds and found that one of the ECM grounds wasn't hooked and the other was a little loose. Never had any running issues though. Just the problem with the radio.

Posted
At times it can also be ECM grounds which anyone down near the crank sensor should remove, clean and reattach these ECM grounds!!

 

 

You trying to be a comedian? Those grounds are such a pain in the arse to get on. When I put the motor in my 89 SE I was having a problem with the radio cutting out. Started checking grounds and found that one of the ECM grounds wasn't hooked and the other was a little loose. Never had any running issues though. Just the problem with the radio.

 

Really??!! You always learn something new, it effected the radio, wow :shock: now I know too. Actually, and not bragging, its not bad to get to, just have to give yourself some time to figure out how to get your hand in there and be comfortable. I found with car jacked up and laying on my back nice and comfortable (all the tools I needed laying next to me :lol: ) just reach in from over by the area of the tire then reach in towards the grounds (and crank sensor) and just as your elbow hits something, your hands are right where you want them. But like anything, should just do it if you are there (going to be there eventually) so your radio won't cut out later :lol: 8)

 

Jeff M

Guest Anonymous
Posted

I lucked out though. I was getting it inspected and was talking to the guy about it. (I worked with his brother and know the family) He put the car up on the lift and let me fix it. Sure beat laying in the snow doing it.

Posted
Or it could be a bad spark plug wire. Started the car up and it runs great, and on all 6 cylinders!!! Stepped on the gas, smoke rolled off the front tires like it should! I actually think it is running a little better than it did before I started having the problem, so the coils may have been going bad anyways.

 

Thanks for all the help with the coils, and your suggestoins of what the problem could be. I really appreciate it!

 

Shawn

 

SWEEET, success, that is all that matters, fixing something for the first time is the hardest, some fun learning along the way, some learning you have to just laugh at (had simular problem/cracked spark plug ceramic :oops: had me scratching for a while ). Just glad you doing BETTER!

 

JEff M

Posted

I'm sure ity doesn't beat my missing "fuse in the wrong place" incident in my LE :lol:

 

replaced an alt and the battery before i figured that one out :lol:

 

oh well i'm learning :roll:

Posted
I'm sure ity doesn't beat my missing "fuse in the wrong place" incident in my LE :lol:

 

replaced an alt and the battery before i figured that one out :lol:

 

oh well i'm learning :roll:

 

Yehaa, we have fun learning, thing is we all got to not stress out, instead laugh and learn, or learn to laugh :lol:

 

Jeff M

Posted

god910 wrote

 

Jud, did you have to extend the wires alot, or are they pretty long once you get the harness apart?

 

Yes I had to extend the wires about 2'.I did a write up on this subject awhile ago with a dwg of the bracket to mount the coils. If you want it I'll see if I can find it.

 

Jud

Posted

Sure that'd be great. I plan on doing that for Sunshine. My other car I'm leaving alone.

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