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Im Boosted *UPDATED*


gp90se

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I finally drove my TGP home from CT 2day...no registation, no insurance, 120 miles. All I can say is VROOOOOOOOssshhhhhhh. did the speed limit damn near all the way, cept when i was damn near home, a little DSM lazer wanted 2 play, so i played....and OWN3D sum serious DSM.

 

6:00pm: got to the car around 6pm

6:20: got it jumpstarted

6:22: ABS light pops on grrrr

at 6:26, i die on the side of the road, battery is dead.

7:15: get back from autozone and have new battery in

7:25: get 91 octane from habib gas, car stalls from needing tuneup but starts back up on the way out

7:45: stop for food, car wont start, reattach battery cable, leave 20' patch

9:20: almost home, DSM wants 2 play, we played and he gets OWN3D

9:45: pull into teen hangout 2 showoff new toy

9:55: goto buddys house 2 show off toy to friend

10:30: come home with smile on face

 

-Jeff

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Also, list of questions:

 

Are non tgp axles the same as the TGP, i was told cauz the abs makes em different.

 

the abs light is on, brake still work, it might be the fluid is real low cauz the rear brakes are shot, but whats the best way to find out why the lights on

 

i didnt see any odd coloring on the x-over pipe, any way 2 check if/where its leaking from.

 

How does 1 install a 1g BOV into the TGP

 

the EGR i think is different then a non turbo, yes/no? if yes, its still 2 bolts to pop it off so i can clean under it.

 

94+ rear brakes, worth the upgrade in stopping distance?

 

Did some1 descide if seafoam is is safe 2 use in the crank case 2 clean out old oil/intake manifolds?

 

im sure theres more 2 come, but theres a start

 

-Jeff

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For the DSM bov, you'll need to get the bov and the pipe it's attached to.

 

Now, you can cut the curve off of the pipe so that it's all straight. Then you can cut the top intake pipe shorter so that you can place the bov pipe between the intercooler and intake and just clamp it in place.

 

Or you can cut the flange off of the pipe and have it welded onto the intake somewhere. I have my flange welded to my lower intercooler pipe.

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Guest Anonymous
Are non tgp axles the same as the TGP, i was told cauz the abs makes em different.

 

the EGR i think is different then a non turbo, yes/no? if yes, its still 2 bolts to pop it off so i can clean under it.

 

94+ rear brakes, worth the upgrade in stopping distance?

 

 

I belive they are the same axles, just the abs gives them a different part #.

 

The egr is the same as n/a.

 

I highly recommend 94+ rear brakes. I was in some anti-skid yesterday and the rears will lock up in it where the old brakes wouldn't, if they even worked.

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Are non tgp axles the same as the TGP, i was told cauz the abs makes em different.

 

the EGR i think is different then a non turbo, yes/no? if yes, its still 2 bolts to pop it off so i can clean under it.

 

94+ rear brakes, worth the upgrade in stopping distance?

 

 

I belive they are the same axles, just the abs gives them a different part #.

 

The egr is the same as n/a.

 

I highly recommend 94+ rear brakes. I was in some anti-skid yesterday and the rears will lock up in it where the old brakes wouldn't, if they even worked.

 

Yeah, axles should be the same save the ABS. There is like a ring or something on them for the ABS to sense when the wheel locks up (or something lke that) The EGR is the vacuum one, so a little harder to find in a j/y

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Well, today I brought the car down 2 my buddies station and went thru it is much as I could, found sum interesting things, sum standard issues and sum working goodies...

 

Problems:

 

The biggest thing it the wiring, its down right scary. It looks like the fuse box fried out at 1 point and there is 2 huge relays controlling EVERYTHING on the car. lol its pretty fucked up, but Ill figure it all out

 

The transmission shifts like shit, even though its been rebuilt.

 

There is a minor oil leak from the side of the oil pan, which I think I can get sum silicone in to stop for now.

 

the rear brakes so next to nothing, the partially frozen, 94+ swap time

 

The CVs are leaky, and both sides click, but that's not a hard swap.

 

The rear leaf spring is starting 2 go, my other GP has a steel 1..humm

 

the front valance is there but cracked and sits very low, But I think it can be fixed by a body shop

 

door handles broke, drivers seat is ripped 2 hell, the p.side seat is ripped, the blinkers are broken, the headlight support is busted, a fog is busted, the brake lamp switch is broken, and the steering column needs 2 be replaced.

 

The Good

 

Turbo has 0 play in the shaft, and isn't blowing any oil

 

Even needing plugs, it runs very strong.

 

the rubber on all 4 of the TGP rims are in good shape

 

the hud works mint

 

-Jeff

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Problems:

 

The biggest thing it the wiring, its down right scary. It looks like the fuse box fried out at 1 point and there is 2 huge relays controlling EVERYTHING on the car. lol its pretty fucked up, but Ill figure it all out-

 

That would be the fuse/relay center over on the driver's side of the engine compartment? Cooling Fan #1 can overload those connections at the relay, know a couple who had this, should be the main thing changed out as the rest is needed to keep you running (Ign, injectors etc).

 

The transmission shifts like shit, even though its been rebuilt.

 

Vacuum modulator for the tranny, on the side of the case below the turbo, not hooked up probably or leaking, make sure its not plugged/the bleed port, or no check valve there at all and the vacuum hose is going directly into the Vac Mod>>hard when shifting under boost.

 

There is a minor oil leak from the side of the oil pan, which I think I can get sum silicone in to stop for now.

 

More likely/common the oil pump drive/distributor delete body O-Ring, waaaay under the TB, eaiser to get to when swapping crossover pipes.

 

the rear brakes so next to nothing, the partially frozen, 94+ swap time

 

If you want to do all this, down side is no parking brake and spare tire will not work, your decision on it but a $5 bronze bushing from any local auto parts store and they will work again and not hang again!

 

The rear leaf spring is starting 2 go, my other GP has a steel 1..humm

 

You mean the back end is slammed and you need a set of lowered spring in the front to even things out 8) :lol:

 

Sounds all good to me, few things here and there, keeps the nights going and you away from the tele.

 

Jeff M

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:worship:

 

the oil leak is from the pan, the o-ring is leakin a little as well but its on the other side and it looks like its from the oilpan.

 

the rear ridehight is correct, but the leaf looks like crap.

 

axles, same or different as a non TGP?

 

And yes its Dans old TGP, good guy

 

-Jeff

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:worship:

 

the oil leak is from the pan, the o-ring is leakin a little as well but its on the other side and it looks like its from the oilpan.

 

the rear ridehight is correct, but the leaf looks like crap.

 

axles, same or different as a non TGP?

 

And yes its Dans old TGP, good guy

 

-Jeff

 

Okydoky. Otherside, ummm, you can wash all the oil off/wipe it off then let it leak again to be sure, or spray some footpowder in the area, dropping the oil pan is no fun. Maybe from the power steering pump, or from the end of the lower intake where its sealed to the top of the block, just some other suggestions when you get to looking. "Leaf looks like crap" as-in fiberglass coming apart? Axles should be the same, I think Curtis checked into this when he did his Mean Cavi.

 

Have fun tearing into it!!

 

Jeff M

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest TurboSedan

The biggest thing it the wiring, its down right scary. It looks like the fuse box fried out at 1 point and there is 2 huge relays controlling EVERYTHING on the car. lol its pretty fucked up, but Ill figure it all out

 

 

these can be rewired, but it's a tedious job. i had to pop all of the wires out of the plastic 'housing' on mine (it was all cracked up and wouldn't even snap into the body). i had to draw out a diagram of where all of the wires went on paper and then pop all of them out with a jewelers screwdriver, and then snap all of them back into place into another (good) plastic housing i had.

 

i would try to copy the fuse/relay center wiring from someone else's TGP if you can.

 

another + to '94+ rear brakes is the pads are WAY easier to change!

joshua

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