maddux31 Posted March 6, 2004 Report Posted March 6, 2004 I have a significant trans leak that has left a 6-8 inch puddle of fluid under my car for about 2 weeks. I have the fluid level at 2 quarts overfull so I'm not worried about the fluid being low. Vibration (no rattling or noise) is ocurring at moderate to heavy boost or moderate to heavy load. No vibration whatsoever in neutral, little bit in park, lots in OD--especially when going up hills--none going down hills. Car is not idling correctly either it is changing rpm 500 -750----relearned idle 3 times--no change. Power is lacking a little bit too, especially off the line. Good power and boost when downshifting out of overdrive to 3--very little vibration. Downshifting (any)seems to reduce the vibration significantly. Replace the #1/4 coil last weekend and it seemed to help but now the vibration has returned. Will be adding another coil this weekend. I am going to locate the source of the trans leak tomorrow and will update then. Boost gauge will flicker about +2or3 pounds for a split second and then return to wherever it was. This happens at least every 30 sec or 1min. History on this includes motor rebuild (everything except pistons/crank) 69,000 miles, overheat (blown head gasket) at 69,900 miles, heads removed at 69,900 miles also discovered what I think was a seized lifter at 69,900 miles replaced with GM unit but it would not stop plunging before I put it in the motor. Torqued the rocker down and the plunger went down in the lifter somewhat, (not opening valve correctly???) I'm wondering if this is the cause of my poor idle, flicker and/or terrible gas mileage?? Could this be causing my vibration?? Gm guys said the lifter would operate correctly just put it in and prime the system with the fuel pump relay removed before actually starting. Did that. The vibration, boost flicker, shitty idle,and terrible mileage (in fact I was getting 31mpg as opposed to about 23 now on the highway) were all nonexistant when I drove the car the 900 miles before the head gasket went out and I replaced the one (all were replaced during rebuild at 69,000) lifter. I may just tear the intake manifolds off and take a look at that lifter. Well anybody can see this is turning into a paragraph so I'll take any tips from you guys and thanks for any replies or information regarding my various problems. Dale Malcolm Omaha, Nebraska. Oh ya, the car is an '89 TGP. Quote
maddux31 Posted March 6, 2004 Author Report Posted March 6, 2004 \ said: Trans leak could likely just be the tranny pan. Mine still leaks cause of the stupid cheap gasket I used. Poor idle, try cleaning the IAC. Are you getting any codes? I need to get a code scanner and make my life a little easier. I did have the trans serviced about 2 weeks before my camshaft went last year. The guy probaby used a cheap gasket. Then I did the rebuild and the stuff iI listed above. I'll take a look at the pan and the torque converter today. Quote
Like2Play Posted March 7, 2004 Report Posted March 7, 2004 I can guess torque convertor problem for the vibration. Probably not related, but I had a Chrysler 904 that the torque convertor cracked the shaft. It would only vibrate really bad when it locked up. Quote
musthavemuzk Posted March 7, 2004 Report Posted March 7, 2004 no need for a code scanner use a paperclip and then read the codes that flash on the ses light Monty Quote
maddux31 Posted March 7, 2004 Author Report Posted March 7, 2004 \ said: Trans leak could likely just be the tranny pan. Mine still leaks cause of the stupid cheap gasket I used. Poor idle, try cleaning the IAC. Are you getting any codes? The tranny pan is the source of the leak. Cheap gasket probably installed by my neighbor mechanic. He did not fill the extra 2 quarts in like I asked last June and then the cam went out on me 2 weeks later so I just never noticed the leak until I reassembled the car and added the extra trans fluid this past month. I think the vibration is coming from the 2 coil packs I need to replace. Will do some code work later in the week--It is too nice to be f'ing with the car today. Cleaned the IAC this morning and will do another idle relearn in a little while when I leave for the test drive. Thanks for the input from everyone....... Quote
Lee Posted March 8, 2004 Report Posted March 8, 2004 They sell a rubber re-useable gasket for it. Buy that one. Lee Quote
maddux31 Posted March 9, 2004 Author Report Posted March 9, 2004 \ said: They sell a rubber re-useable gasket for it. Buy that one. Lee Thanks!! Quote
95DropTop Posted March 14, 2004 Report Posted March 14, 2004 Ok, I am a noob and not a mechanic, but am fairly mechanically inclined. My question: what is this "idle re-learn" that is mentioned in several posts? I have an idle problem and a similar vibration, but mine only seems evident between 40 or 50 mph or so. I would like to try the relearn to see if that helps. I did not do the work, but the ABS unit? was replaced prior to me purchasing my car. It seemed to run really smoothly when I first got it, but now it rough idles? 3.4 DOHC 1995 CS Conv. Thanks for any help! Quote
musthavemuzk Posted March 14, 2004 Report Posted March 14, 2004 here are the directions for the idle relearn http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=pages&pid=74 http://www.60degreev6.com/ is a site all about the engine in most W-body cars. Monty Quote
PaPaPooh Posted March 14, 2004 Report Posted March 14, 2004 \ said: I can guess torque convertor problem for the vibration. Probably not related, but I had a Chrysler 904 that the torque convertor cracked the shaft. It would only vibrate really bad when it locked up. thats is a totaly different animal than the 4t series trans not to mention its RWD and not FWD i just did a 727/904 for the class project Quote
95DropTop Posted March 17, 2004 Report Posted March 17, 2004 Thanks, musthave...I wil give it a shot when the weather breaks around here...too rainy now. Will post results if that works for my minor problem. Thomas Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted March 21, 2004 Report Posted March 21, 2004 my car shook under heavy load in overdrive i replaced the plugs and wires with acdelco wires and copper plugs, and it solved the problem, smoothed out the idle too. Quote
maddux31 Posted March 22, 2004 Author Report Posted March 22, 2004 I replaced 2 spark plugs on the rear bank and ohmed all the injectors Friday and voila!! Feels like a new car. It was the plugs--fouled with under 2,000 miles on them. All the injectors were good to go and compression check showed 150 psi on every cylinder. Only 2,000 miles on complete rebuild though, so the compression check was just out of curiosity. Sure feels good to be finished with this thing for a while. Shit, now I better knock on some wood. Quote
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