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i bet my car has the worst front suspesion here.


Guest TurboSedan

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Guest TurboSedan

i have a really really bad knocking sound coming from my front passenger side suspension when i go over bumps. even really small bumps....

 

the front/pass side wheel on my car has major play all over the place....much worse than the other side. i have gotten under the car (front end raised off the ground) and looked at the back side of the hub while my brother shook the wheel @ 12&6 oclock and then again @ 3&9 oclock and all of the play looks like it is coming from the hub/wheel bearing area where it is bolted to the strut/knuckle. i know my lower ball joint boots and outer tie rod end boots are bad too tho, so i'm not really sure what is making the noise???

 

anyone have an idea where this noise could be coming from? it is so bad that i really have to rebuild the front suspesion very soon before something breaks (my car has 214,000 miles). i have a set of 49,000 mile '96 Cutlass front strut/knuckles that i got for the '95+ front brake upgrade, but i also plan on replacing:

 

- bigger 11.25" '95+ front rotors (new)

- new brake pads (probably EBC Greenstuff)

- lower ball joints

- outer tie rod ends

- front KYB strut cartridges

 

but -

 

- should i replace all of the bushings in the front suspension while i'm at it? is there a poly kit i can get?

 

- should i replace the inner tie rod ends?

 

- should i replace the strut mounts and/or the strut bearing?

 

i plan on overhauling the entire front suspension soon, i'll probably have the local Midas do most of the job since alot of specialty tools are required and i'll need to have it aligned anyway. i'll have my Eibach lowering springs swapped over to the new strut/kncukles also. how much should i expect for labor? i might do everything myself except for tie-rods, ball-joint removal, and alignment i'm not sure....

joshua

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I just finished this upgrade last night and had to replace the ball joints since the person I bought the knuckles from had used a pickle fork and ruined the boots.

 

If you have play in the hub, it's just held on by 4 bolts. Just torque them to 52 ft-lbs.

 

I also noticed when I first when I put my suspension back together that there was play in the wheel at first. It scared me, but I went ahead and torqued the hub nut to 184ft-lbs and that fixed the problem. Now it's tight as can be.

 

As far as bushings, I didn't replace them. Mine looked fine.

Inner tierods only need replacing if they're bad.

Strut mounts and bearings, also I would only replace them if they're bad.

 

Mine were fine, so I didn't change those items. I didn't even change my outer tierods. My suspension is still tight as can be, no play.

 

I don't know of any special tools you'll need as long as you're replacing the ball joints anyway. I used some $8 spring compressors from Harbor Freight, a hub puller I got from JC Whitney, 36mm socket, Kent-Moore balljoint/tierod puller (but you can use pickle fork if you're replacing them), and a basic socket set. I also needed a step drill bit to drill out my strut tower holes since 88-89 had smaller strut tower holes, but other than that, it was pretty easy.

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not 100% sure but it could be the strut mounts are worn out and are shaking aroung. thats the problem i had but it was in the rear. every bump i hit i heard a chattering sound, like your teeth knocking when your shiverring. I dont know just a suggestion?

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest TurboSedan
i have a really really bad knocking sound coming from my front passenger side suspension when i go over bumps. even really small bumps....

 

 

well i temporarily fixed this problem yesterday by swapping the bad wheel bearing/hub for an extra that i had. the old wheel bearing/hub was BAD...lots of play in it. i can't believe the thing didn't fall apart!! i will NEVER use a slide hammer to pull an axle ever again. i bought one from harbor freight a while back just for this. i ended up pulling the inner CV boot right off while trying to use it, and finally ended up just smacking the axle out by using a long 1/2" extension and a hammer on the backside of the inner CV housing....what a PITA!!!! luckily i had new CV boot grease but i had to go buy a new CV boot clamp (some cheapo clamp...i hope it stays on!).

 

my front suspension is worse than i thought. there is practically nothing left to the ball joint boots due to using a pickle fork so many times. believe it or not, i never did have the front suspension re-aligned when i had the Eibach springs installed 2.5 years ago - the car has wanted to dive off into the ditch ever since :oops: the passenger side front strut/knuckle is not even in the same place as the drivers side; it looks like it needs to be rotated at least 30'. because of this part of it hits the inner fenderwell plastic if the suspension is compressed enough and makes a popping noise. surprisingly my tie-rods *look* ok - i've never used a fork on them or removed them. the strut cartrides are about 4 years old and the strut mounts are the 215,000+ mile originals. the control arm and sway bar bushings definately need to be replaced. oh yeah did i mention the front sway bar isn't even connected on the passenger side?!?!?!? i lost a bolt for it when i swapped the new tranny in last fall and never put it back on - so i've basically been driving around with NO front sway bar. jeez. oh well it's all trashed anyway right? :)

 

i need to get my GTS back on the road pronto so i can take the Cutlass apart....my Cutlass probably has the worst front suspension of any car here!

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan

i have to admit, due to the high mileage of my car i got careless. all of that stuff was going to get replaced anyway, it's just that it's gotten to the point where i HAVE TO do it very soon. the front suspension and brakes are going to be completely taken apart as soon as i get another shifter cable for my GTS, then i can start driving that instead.

 

then engine & transmission are coming out as well. it will probably be off the road for quite awhile.

joshua

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