Intlcutlass Posted February 16, 2004 Report Posted February 16, 2004 OK.. So I understand the best way to remove really badly rusted panels is to cut them out & weld in new steel. How would I keep this from happening again? Here is what I have found out....... When removing any of the surface rust with Naval jelly of some sort of other phosphoric acid product, follow that up with a light coating of a zinc compound, then use a rust preventitive primer (I have been reading good things about "Rust Killer". Then prime again, then paint... Does anyone have any opinions or methods otherwise, any input? Quote
gimp19 Posted February 16, 2004 Report Posted February 16, 2004 The only thing that works for me is completly cutting out the rust. Every product I've tried seems to have little effect treating it, I'm sure there good as a secondary treatment but first all the rust should be removed as good as possible. A cutoff wheel is a very handy and inexpensive tool. Quote
gp90se Posted February 16, 2004 Report Posted February 16, 2004 I wished my grand prix twice a week just to keep the salt off of her. If you do have rust (even bubbleing under the paint), attack it ASAP. I ended up with a little rust above the rear fender well, attacked it with 400 grit, then 800 grit, then 1000 grit all the way down 2 bare metal, primered and painted it as i wetsanded it. If you have rot, clean up the area with 400 grit till there is NO rust left, even a high speed wire brush will clean the rust up, then primer the area. The best way to fix a rot hole is to weld in a piece of sheet metal....but fiberglassing will work, just not as well. My blazer is rotting out fairly quickly, someone took a no parking street sign and welded it into my fender, cant even tell lol. -Jeff Quote
Intlcutlass Posted February 16, 2004 Author Report Posted February 16, 2004 I am not debating the priority of adressing rust, I am looking for opinions on the best products... Has anyone ever used rust bullet or por-15 or zinc spray or epoxy primer instead of regular primer? Quote
patgizz Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 epoxy primer is good por-15 is good for painting over surface rust on floors or inner panels and such. it will peel off of regular non rusted metal unless you prep it with their prep product Quote
gimp19 Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 I take a autobody course cutting out the rust is the best way but the hardest and the most amount of work . The other products may work but will not hold up after a while. You could buy a product called por 15 it is expensive like $100 a gallon but will last forever. You would still have to sand off the rust as good as u can but it does not matter if you get it all off because por 15 forms a air tight seal between its self and the rust causing the rust to stop. If you have any more questions about autobody post them it might take me awhile to reply becuase this is gimp19's brother. Quote
Intlcutlass Posted February 17, 2004 Author Report Posted February 17, 2004 epoxy primer is good por-15 is good for painting over surface rust on floors or inner panels and such. it will peel off of regular non rusted metal unless you prep it with their prep product Thanks Patt.... Good info. Quote
patgizz Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 the floor of my belair had 41 years of surface rust on it - we cleaned it and painted with POR-15 9 years ago and i just pulled up my carpet and checked and it looks brand new still, no sign of peeling, rust coming back or spreading. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 How would I keep this from happening again? (snip) Does anyone have any opinions or methods otherwise, any input? Yeah, move south! Your procedure is sound and worked for me. I used phosphoric acid gel (Naval Jelly maybe? can't remember the brand name) and etched away the rust from the door sill of my truck. It was a huge area of exposed metal rubbed away by clothing rubbing on the sill over time as the previous owner climbed in and out of the truck. Luckily, it was only surface rust. First, I wire brushed it to remove all loose rust and scale. Then I used the Naval Jelly to dissolve the rust. I applied and reapplied it until only dull gray metal was left. Then I primed with zinc-rich primer (Rustoleum brand maybe?). Lastly, I painted it with black enamel. It has not re-rusted since, it's been 2 yrs. However, I also don't live in the North. Quote
Intlcutlass Posted February 17, 2004 Author Report Posted February 17, 2004 Thanks for the help Shawn..... I didn't know rustoleum made zinc rich primer...... BTW---quite bustn my chops man...I love my sub-zero weather, and crusty salt spray ok!.... .... Actually, it's not that great.... 8) ......alright, already, it freggen SUCKS :cuss: . Hey, is your on the road yet...or still garage bound???? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 Hey, is your on the road yet...or still garage bound???? Still garage bound. I just swapped an ST spring and 96 Monte Z34 strut assembly into it on Saturday night. I can't do the other side because it's parked next to the garage wall on that side. I can't move it because my metal heater pipe finally rotted out. I cut it too high and messed up my chances of replacing the bad section with a length of rubber hose so I'll have to order a new pipe from the dealer. That's where it stands now, heheh. Then once I get that replaced and can turn the car around, I'll replace the strut assembly on the other side. After that, painting the calipers, shaving the caliper bracket a little, my new wheels should fit. Then I'll mount 1 tire and see if it'll rub or not. If it will, then I need to sell my tires and buy lower profile tires. Quote
95 BLKDOUT Drop Top Posted February 21, 2004 Report Posted February 21, 2004 I got a solution, MOVE TO FLORIDA!!!! Quote
EurosportZ34 Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 Ohhhh....moving to Florida, now that's sounds nice and WARM. :x OK, I have a good one here. I have rust starting on the trunk lid of my Z34. It's just under the side of the lid that has the CHEVROLET decal (opposite the side that has the Z34 decal). It's starting under the lid and working its way to the outside of the lid. What would be the best way to attack that? Same way as a rust spot near the wheel well? Thanks for any info! -bRad Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 what i do to prevent rusting is to wash my cutty frequently to get the salt off of her. In addition I use tar based undercoating for the frame underneath the cutty to prevent rusting. The stuff works. My parents pay for Zeibart rust protection, which is essentially what I do for myself. Quote
topless94style Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 If it is just starting, get some sand paper, and sand the shit off, get every spot you possibly can. Primer and paint, althought it might be hard to paint with that decal there. Thats what i would do. I have 4 or 5 tiny rust spots, all on the door jams, my doors dont close all the way, you have to put a little extra effort when closing them. But doint that, is causing the paint to be chipped off the door and door jams, bringing up the rust. I also have a tiny spot on the driver door, under the black pillar next to the mirror. Gonna be a hard spot to get at. I also have to worry about where my car got hit right before thanksgiving, the dent is UGLY, and i dont know how long i can trust the spray paint thats on there. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 what i do to prevent rusting is to wash my cutty frequently to get the salt off of her. In addition I use tar based undercoating for the frame underneath the cutty to prevent rusting. The stuff works. My parents pay for Zeibart rust protection, which is essentially what I do for myself. Tar-based undercoating PROMOTES rust by trapping water. You should never use a tar-based undercoating on your car. My 89 has tar-based undercoating applied by the dealer when the car was new. The car is considerably rustier than our 88 which was not undercoated even though the 88 has been exposed to much more road salt. I also had an old AMC with the tar-based undercoating. Every place I chiseled off the undercoating was completely rusted, some spots rusted out. That's not just my opinion either. The Click & Clack guys (Tom & Ray Magliozzi) also said in their CarTalk column not to use any tar-based undercoating. Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 really? i've had no problems? infact, i've found it's stopped parts of the frame that were rusting. hmm? Quote
White93z34 Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 hey eurosportz34, did that "3.4 mpfi" sticker over your exhaust tip come with the car, i know mine don't have that. Quote
EurosportZ34 Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 Yeah White93, as far as I know the sticker is stock. I think I'm the third owner of the car and I know it's been repainted but I'm pretty sure it came with it. There is also one on each side of the front bumper. This summer I'm going to remove all the pinstriping from her...more sleak look that way. Pretty wierd that yours didn't come with it. :? Don't know what to tell ya. Maybe they stoped with those stickers in 1992... Quote
Brian P Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 My car had also been tar undercoated when it was new (I guess) and I have no rust on my fuel and brake lines...the unibody shouldnt rust to begin with...my rear suspension has surface rust but I'm not sure if it was ever coated (don't see any black). Either way, I trust those fuel lines a lot more than my old '90 with rust pieces falling off! Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 The seams of the unibody is where tar based undercoating causes the most rusting. I couldn't even imagine rusty fuel and brake lines! That kind of thing is unheard of around here. I've never seen a fuel or brake line anything other than silver in color (except on my 89 where everything is a nasty black). How often do they salt the roads up north? Only 4 times a year here. Quote
Brian P Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 search me....I think the previous owners of my '90 didnt rinse off the bottom worth a damn. The fuel lines were the worst and I have no idea how they didn't leak... the car had no other rust though....go figure Quote
bluegp Posted February 22, 2004 Report Posted February 22, 2004 The seams of the unibody is where tar based undercoating causes the most rusting. I couldn't even imagine rusty fuel and brake lines! That kind of thing is unheard of around here. I've never seen a fuel or brake line anything other than silver in color (except on my 89 where everything is a nasty black). How often do they salt the roads up north? Only 4 times a year here. All of my older cars have had rusty lines. Once in my Celebrity, one of the brake lines sprung a leak due to rusting through. Of course I was going down a hill. When I was braking at the intersection at the bottom, the pedal went to the floor. Good thing it was close to midnight and there was no traffic. That Celebrity's and the '89 GP's gas tanks rusted out also. Up here, if you drive the car from November until March, it will rust out and fighting the rust will be a losing battle. The roads here get salted every time it snows. I've seen them salted multiple times in one day durring a storm. Around here, seeing a car older than 15 years in good shape is not common. Oh, I forgot to mention, I HATE WINTER! Quote
Intlcutlass Posted February 24, 2004 Author Report Posted February 24, 2004 Around here, seeing a car older than 15 years in good shape is not common I COMPLETELY AGREE! The cars of the north probably rust 3 or 4 times faster than southern cars. Like I was refering to in the beginning of this thread. I think the key to eliminating rust for good is a series of steps...(depending on the severity of the rust. 1, Grind/sandpaper it off.... 2 then, use naval jelly (even if the surface looks clean) 3 Spray it with a cold galvenizing ZINC spray!!!! 4 Prime it with a good rust inhibiting primer (2 coats) Or even a epoxy primer. 5 Then paint it. (I am thinking 2-3 coats) Even if (and when) you scratch the paint, the epoxy primer is really hard. AND even if you manage to scratch that, the zinc spray will sacrafice itself and deteriorate before the steel will. On the can it states 3 years protection, but thats if you are ONLY using the zinc spray... Quote
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