toastemcutlass Posted February 16, 2004 Report Posted February 16, 2004 hey guys need your help again.....my sister has a 98 gtp and shes never had problems with it till yesterday...she took it through the car wash and a couple miles later it boged down and died...it will start and run almost smooth for about five seconds and then die...if you play with the gas you can get it to run like another five and then it dies...i was thinking a sensor got wet..or maybe fuel filter is clogged and is killing it...let me know what you guys think....thanks in advance scott Quote
Baddflash Posted February 16, 2004 Report Posted February 16, 2004 If the car was running just fine and never had problems I say that something probably got wet and just needs to dry in a warm garage or with a blow dryer, space heater or something. Thats what I would do first. Quote
toastemcutlass Posted February 17, 2004 Author Report Posted February 17, 2004 i dont have access to a code reader but when its running the check engine light isnt on...but she had it towed to a mechanic so ill keep you guys posted for future reference. Quote
mfewtrail Posted February 17, 2004 Report Posted February 17, 2004 After the 5 mins or so does the idle change and it run rough as hell before it dies? If so, check the coil packs, on my mom's GTP, the coilpack that fires the plugs on cylinders 2&5 went out and the car did as you described. Pull the wires off the coil packs and look at the terminals, my moms were corroded to shit on two of the original coils(I guess there was no dielectric grease or whatever on the contacts so they rusted). Quote
eclipse5302 Posted February 18, 2004 Report Posted February 18, 2004 Cough...fuel pump relay resistor...cough Check the fuel pump relay resistor. This is used when you are not in boost to slow the otherwise oversized fuel pump. These are a standard ceramic resistor, and don't appreciate things like water, salt, vibration. It is a white u-shaped part, and is usually located on the firewall or on the frame rail, passenger side, right in front of the front wheel. Look under the car in front of the passenger front wheel and you will see it. It will probably be broken, or have a buch of green corrosion all over it. Use a 10mm socket to remove it. These are available at the dealer for about $20-$30. The reason it still runs when you hit the gas is because you are entering boost when you do so, so that resistor is bypassed. The resistor can be tested by using a digital volt-ohm meter. Unplug the resistor, and connect the two leads to the two wires on the resistor. If you don't get any continuity, then it's bad. I'm guessing she went through the car wash and got a under-body flush...and all of the high pressure water just beat up the resistor for the last time. Jason Quote
toastemcutlass Posted February 23, 2004 Author Report Posted February 23, 2004 cough...damn your good...it ended up being the resister...but then it went furture and supposidly took out the computer too...thanks guys Quote
eclipse5302 Posted February 24, 2004 Report Posted February 24, 2004 Umm, yeah... That resistor is completely isolated from the PCM by a relay. I'm pretty sure there's no way that resistor being bad could have wrecked your PCM. Kinda sounds like they were shooting from the hip on that one. But, glad to hear your sis car is working again. Jason Quote
ZeroDCX Posted July 16, 2004 Report Posted July 16, 2004 My car, 92' Regal Custom 3800 Series 1, is having the same problems and I checked the relay, it's fine. Pulled the Gas Tank, checked the fuel pump, it's fine. Then I changed the fuel filter, and to no avail ... the problem still exists. So that leads me to believe that this problem is caused by the fuel pump relay resistor. Does anyone have an idea as to where this is located on a 3800 92' Regal or is it located the same placed in all W-Body vehicles? Thanks in advance guys ... Quote
dbtk2 Posted July 17, 2004 Report Posted July 17, 2004 Yeah, that fuel pump resistor problem is a very common problem for those. To test it without bringing it to a shop you can actually short two terminals together in the fuse box. Although, it doesn't work quite how he described it above, I was pretty sure that was the problem when I read your description of it. The fuel pump has two speeds, and the resistor is the low speed, so when it breaks it gets stuck on the high speed which basically floods the whole engine with gas....which is why if you step on the gas it will stay running longer because you are allowing more air in so it isn't quite so rich. It has nothing to do with boost however, a you can't get boost in a GTP without putting a load on the engine anyways, so you can rev it all you want in park or neutral and it isn't gonna get any boost. Shawn Quote
digitaloutsider Posted July 17, 2004 Report Posted July 17, 2004 It has nothing to do with boost however, a you can't get boost in a GTP without putting a load on the engine anyways, so you can rev it all you want in park or neutral and it isn't gonna get any boost. Shawn You will achieve boost in Park and Neutral if you rev it past 4500 RPM. Just did it yesterday. Quote
sl3196 Posted July 17, 2004 Report Posted July 17, 2004 In park mine shows some boost while reving the engine. Quote
ZeroDCX Posted July 17, 2004 Report Posted July 17, 2004 Okay, I just changed the Fuel Pump, Strainer, Filter, Plugs, Wireset, and cleaned my injectors. The car runs fine, until it runs for a while and reaches a certain temperature, then if my foot isn't on the gas it just cuts off. Then I tried starting it and it wouldn't start, the fuel pump came on but it still didn't start. I put it in diagnostic mode and let the fans run for a couple mins, turn the key and bam ... it started right up. But then when I got home, put it in park and reved past 4000rpms. It started acting funny/backfiring and then I let off and it cut off. Any suggestions ... Quote
cutlsp Posted July 18, 2004 Report Posted July 18, 2004 did she leave car running when she went through car wash? if she did that could be the problem Quote
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