GRANDFURY Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 I'm thinking about doing my rear struts myself and may have access to a spring compressorI have a Haynes manual but wanted to know if there is any know probs that I could run into doing this. My car is a 1989 GP LE coupe. My buddies at work said that with the spring compressed all you have to do is take the old struts out and replace them, this was from a guy that just did his front struts on a 92 GT sunbird. Is the process the same or will I have to mess with the leaf spring? I havn't done this before but the local garage wanted 1100$ CAN for just the struts, mounts and a tie rod end and I was like PHA-Q :shock: So just want some tips , Thanx everybody. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDFURY Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 No i'm not going to buy a spring compressor but I know someone who may let me use it, the guy said it like had a hook on one end that you hook in to the spring on both ends and it compress' the springs or something. Does that sound right? If not what is a spring compressor? Sorry for the questions but I have never dealt with susprenion before and I don't want to mess it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDFURY Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 That thing looks like a hydro jack kinda could that be used to relive the spring? Also will I have to mess the springs by the tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulo57509 Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 its a large device specially for the rear Fiberglass Leaf like the ones on w-body cars its one big unit that to my understanding is able to take the load off the leaf in order to perform maintinence to the rear Suspension Here is a Pic at this Link http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/GM-Rear-Leaf-Spring-Compressor---J35778.HTML Vegeta found and posted this a while back enjoy Dave I have one of these compressors, got it off ebay for around $80 IIRC. I used it when I replaced the strut bumpers (you know that real annoying thunk/thump sound??). Made the job real easy. R&R in about an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 I would use some PB Blaster, or liquid wrench a full week ahead of time on the upper mount bolts. You can spry em from the trunk. They are at the top of the towers. I would also spray the lower strut bolts (you have to take the wheel off, and look behind the rotor), really good. Do this stuff a couple days to a week ahead of time to avoid breaking the bolts on the top, and killing yourself with a sledgehammer for the bolts on the bottom. PS: I just replaced the rears struts on the wifes 95 Cutlass last weekend. Only broke 1 upper strut mount bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 These double posts are killing me! :cuss: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDFURY Posted January 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Alright so are these steps right. 1. jack up rear of car support on stands. 2. reemove tires, rotors, calipers 3.place a jack under each wheel hub 4. jack the hubs until the car just comes off the stands then lower the jack about an inch 5 remove the bottom strut bolts 6. remove upper ones and mount 7. install reverse of removale Is that right or should I remove the upper strut bolts first? I'm doing this soon so I want to get all the info right as i'm working 6 day weeks now, we are starting to build the equinox engines at work so thanx for any help 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Alright so are these steps right. 1. jack up rear of car support on stands. Yes 2. reemove tires, rotors, calipers No-you shouldn't need to monkey with the brakes. 3.place a jack under each wheel hub No-use a block of wood, jack up the SPRING. 4. jack the hubs until the car just comes off the stands then lower the jack about an inch OK....as long as its the spring...Not the knuckle or hub 5 remove the bottom strut bolts Yes 6. remove upper ones and mount Yes 7. install reverse of removale Yes READ THIS BEFORE YOU DO THE JOB: http://redfox340.tripod.com/wbodyperformance/id30.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulo57509 Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 I'd also like to add: Mark the positions of the two strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts on the strut before they're removed, so that they're reassembled in the same positions. This is especially important if the car has had the camber adjusted. Camber is adjusted by elongating the existing round holes in the strut. If the struts are new or the camber has never been adjusted, this isn't important (never hurts to mark them anyway). Disregard if you're going to have the rear re-aligned after assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 Camber is adjusted by elongating the existing round holes in the strut. the bottom strut mounting bolt hole should already be oval. joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulo57509 Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 Camber is adjusted by elongating the existing round holes in the strut. the bottom strut mounting bolt hole should already be oval. joshua No. At least not from the factory. Might be different with aftermarket struts. If the bottom hole is oval, camber adjustments to compensate for wear have been made. I should have said that the _bottom_ strut mounting hole is elongated in order to obtain camber adjustability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDFURY Posted January 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 Cool, Thanx international and others this helped out alot . I will post results after I do it. Thanx again. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JS91Z34 Posted January 30, 2004 Report Share Posted January 30, 2004 All I did was raise the car in the centerand undid the bolts. I never used a compresser or multiple jacks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted January 30, 2004 Report Share Posted January 30, 2004 All I did was raise the car in the centerand undid the bolts. I never used a compresser or multiple jacks How did you keep the leaf spring from shooting down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 30, 2004 Report Share Posted January 30, 2004 Maybe he has a super saggy spring? My car's spring wants to go to a "C" shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted January 30, 2004 Report Share Posted January 30, 2004 Maybe he has a super saggy spring? My car's spring wants to go to a "C" shape. Mine too...... I would think that there would have to be some pressure on the thing....how the hell could you drive a car that bottomed out over every little anthill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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