GrandPrix34 Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 First thoguht it was the ALT but checked good The car runs good for like 5 minutes then it begins to bog and finally die. I try and keep it alive by pressing the accelerator but the RPMS still drop down fast. I just replaced the IAC and the same probs persist. What do you guys think? O2 sensor maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89oldscutlass Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 Could be your ecm going bad or your fuel pump is about to die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 Ignition Control Module. When it starts to get warm from the engine it starts cutting out. My TGP did this. Check for spark when it starts to bog down. Have someone try to keep it running while you check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 had a couple of questions... 1. How can i check the fuel pump to see if it works? 2. Could it be the coolant temp sensor? I have the FFP chip which turns the fans on at 160 degrees but why does the fans come on as soon as i start the car? 3. Could i put some sort of heat sink behind the ICM so i dont have to buy a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1234 Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 I agree, its the ignition control module. After the car warms up it will die, then it will cool down, and prolly start again etc. Had thatp roblem with my lumina, had to tow it twice. The second time it started, and i was like yay... and drove it, then it died. Live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon89le Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 The pump can be checked right near the battery. My 3.1 has a wire with a connector on it that just hangs near the positive battery terminal, check to see if yours has one. I doubt its your pump. I had a similar problem and it was my ECM. When my ICM went it WENT. Left me stranded at like 10pm on a dark road right off the highway. No warning what so ever, just dead. But with the ECM, the car would start up fine every time when cold but after 5 or sometimes 10minutes itd just shut right off and just crank over and over when i tried to start it. If it did start id have to have my foot planted just to keep the revs up near 2000 and as soon as i let go she'd die. Since you probably cant check the ECM, try and see if a place near you will check the ICM. Goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 well i replaced the ICM and a coil but the car still runs like shit! Runs 5 minutes then stalls and bogs and finaly dies!!! Man is this pissing me off. I have no car now, plus my wallet is really taking a beating. what do you guys think?>? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon89le Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 I still say ECM... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon89le Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 Out of curiousity, is your SES or Check Engine light on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 when the car dies it puts a Check engine light but still reads code 12...no code is stored Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 when the car dies it puts a Check engine light but still reads code 12...no code is stored It comes on after it dies? Thats just the gauge check if I understand you correctly.. A bunch of lights should come on when it dies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 no the Check Gauges light AND the SES light come one too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 so it COULD be the damn ECU?!?!?!? Im so desperate im gonna drive this POS (right now only of course :-D) to the j/y and look fro a damn ECU!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 White smoke! Lots of it... Please dont say blown headgasket cuz dang, that would suck! If it WAS a headgasket, would't it have trouble from the begnning??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 DOWN WIT BLOWN HEADGASKET!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 DOWN WIT BLOWN HEADGASKET!! I think you're getting tired... off to bed now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 after 1 fuckign week of nothing but hard labor on my car and having something called a job taking time away fom my car (and my g/f lol) i will now formally quit my job 2morrow! FUCK IT! Now more time for my g/f and my car! Aye im so tired and sad and depressed and sleep depreived........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 When you replaced the ICM, did you use a Thermal-Transfer Grease? Thermal-Transfer Grease is not the same as the Di-Electric Grease. Di-Electric grease is used for the contact leads to make the electricity flow better and you can use that for the ignition coils connectors, ignition wire tips, electrical connector. Thermal-Transfer Grease is used to transfer heat from a component to a heatshield to draw away the heat. This is what you use between the ICM and the metal heat sink. This is what they use as well to connect a computer CPU to a heatsink so it will draw away the heat. Failure to use Thermal-Transfer grease will cause a component in question to overheat and fail. Check the resistance of the ignition coils and properly torque the ignition coils to the ICM. Make sure the crankshaft position sensor wire is not rubbing on any metal. Test the computer by tapping the computer metal box lightly while it's running to see if the engine bogs down. If it does bogs down then that is one indication of a bad computer or solders inside it are loose. If it does not bog down, then the computer might still be defective internally. Another possibility would be the fuel pump relay itself. It might look ok but the solder inside the relay could be loose and once it heats up then it looses connection. Best way to test it would be to swap it with another relay preferably from the 2nd relay fan. If you don't have a 2nd fan relay, you can use the fan relay and swap it with the fuel pump relay. The fan does not kick in anyway until the temp is 180 or higher. Wait... You said the fan would immediately turn ON when cranking? If so, the battery will be drained OFF very quickly and would have less power to supply your engine. The alternator is suppose to provide the necessary power but it might not be providing any power just yet because the alternator would start kicking in at higher RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 im running 160* stat wit the FFP chip to turn the fans on at that time. I did put the thermal transfer grease on the back of the ICM like that website i saw said.l 1 thing, one coil on has one bolt cuz i dropped and lsot the other one. I doubt that one bolt would make any difference. The ICM is new and so are the coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4spdz34 Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 ya that bolt makes a difference, your car is prob misfiring. get another bolt quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachismisit Posted January 7, 2004 Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 check oil maybe/ blown head gasket = milky looking oil, ... I'd know , happened to me earlier this year, mine would keep running though, in fact I drove it for a while before I finally gave in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 still runs rough!! GRRR!! Really need my car, need help guys! ECM?!?!? Im willing to buy it just to try it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 check for mily oil, and look in the radiator/overflow for oil. you see oil, then ya have problems with the headgaskets. Im still going with fuel pump. -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 fuel pump recently changed and it last longer than before but still stalls and dies. Anyone ever have ECM problems?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 Check your oil like those guys are saying. Only thing else i could think of is get another ecm and see if that helps. If it was fuel pump, i dont think you could start car and let it run for a while and die so many times, because if it went out your car shouldnt run anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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