Zoomina34 Posted January 2, 2004 Report Share Posted January 2, 2004 I knew trying the e brake was a bad idea, but i did it anyway. Last time i tried it the brake stuck and i did a 180 into the ditch. This time i didn't hit the ditch, but now it's stuck for good. Pulling the realease does nothing, it just moves freely. The pedal still moves. It will be hard to push a couple times, then it will all of a sudden move with no effort at all. The cable undernereath does not seem very tight, i can move it back and forth quite easily. So the caliper is probably stuck right? Is there a way i can disconnect the e brake and still have the brakes function properly? Also the rear wheels are all caked with snow from sliding sideways, could this be part of the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 You could cut the e-brake cable, but it won't un-freeze your calipers. A common W-Body problem is frozen rear calipers; it's an internal problem. You'll need to pry the suckers off and replace them with new ones. Sorry to hear of your troubles, but that's the only way to fix it. - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoomina34 Posted January 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 If i end up needing new calipers, which i think i do, now would be a good time for the newer brake upgrade. Can i swap just the rears from a newer car and leave the fronts as they are? I need the parts from a 94 or newer w body right? What all do i need and how much can i expect to pay for the parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Take the wheel off. You'll see where the e-brake cable notches into the groove of the bracket [that is attached to the caliper]. All you have to do is bang that bracket back down to where it belongs, [uncompressing the spring. This will tighten the loose hanging cable and hopefully release the caliper piston. If it is really resistant to banging with a hammer, you might want to loosen the 18mm nut that holds that bracket to the rear side of the caliper..BUT not much!! Maybe 1/2 a turn. It's hard to get to but will turn a flat at a time with a regular wrench. Socket won't fit in there. The stud sticking out of the caliper that the nut is screwed onto is part of the caliper piston assembly, too loose and it leaks brake fluid. There is a rubber washer gasket under the 18mm nut. Mine has been hanging up when I use my e-brake to reset the brakes, leaving the cable dangling down by the driver door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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