95 Buick Regal...4 wheel alignment?

[cpa5oh]

I've got a 95 Buick Regal...has the composite transverse spring...alot more sophisticated than my live axle Mustang.

 

The camber in the rear is all phucked up...way too much negative. The insides of my rear tires wear down quickly. I originally thought that the leaf spring was sagging, so I installed the Moog spring helpers (without any spacers.) After that install I still have the same problem (although this weekend I will install spacers and see where that puts me.)

 

My questions are:

1.) Is camber adjustable in the rear of this car? (Does it get a four wheel alignment or is the rear non-adjustable?) I'm guessing that, since it is sort of an independent rear, that the car does call for a four wheel alignment, which leads me to...

 

2.) How is the rear camber adjusted? My Chilton's manual doesn't give any indication of how this is done and I don't have any other literature on this car. I have tools (toe plates and a smart camber gauge) that should allow me to get this done on my own (at least putting me in the ballpark,) but I don't know where the adjustment is made.

 

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can offer me...taking this car to a shop is NOT an option...I've spent way too much on tools to go and do that.

 

Happy New Year,

Dan

[Redfox340]

$40 will kill you on a professional alignment? Bummer...

I, too, don't see how to adjust the rear camber and I don't have my OEM service manual to spot check either.

I remember on my Cutlass (same set-up) is was just the spring, a horizonal and parallel trailing arm.

I honestly think you can't adjust a thing at home to fix the problem.

If you're having such a extreme condition, either the frame is not sitting correctly, or the wheel bearings are toast!

That's my best guess at hte moment... you may just need to rotate tire more... who knows.

 

- Erik

[mfewtrail]

If I recall reading right a few weeks ago when I was just curious about the same, you have to slot the hole on the lower strut to knuckle connection to adjust camber. ..ok, that is right, I found one of my GM W' manuals..it says you will need to remove/disconnect the following and goes like this basically.

 

1. Raise vehicle( )

2. Tire and wheel assembly

3. Remove strut/stabilizer shaft bracket

4. Place strut in vise

** At the lower strut to knuckle attaching hole, file the lateral hole(oblong).

 

Then it goes on to say Install or Connect

 

1. Attach the knuckle: strut assembly/stabilizer shaft bracket.

*do not tighten bolts at this time.

2. Strut to body bolts and brake hose bracket.

3. Tires and wheels

4. Lower vehicle

ADJUST: camber

TIGHTEN: strut to knuckle nuts to 136 lb.ft.

*Important*

Toe must be checked after changing camber.

 

---Torque Specifications-----

Strut Cover Plate Nuts - 17 lb.ft.

Upper Strut bolts to body - 34 lb.ft.

Strut to knuckle nuts - 136 lb.ft.

Tie rod Jam nuts - 46 lb.ft.

Rear Rod to crossmember nut 81 lb.ft. + 60*

 

Hope this helps, let me know if you need any other information or the like outta a GM service manual, I can take pictures of of the illustrations as well if need be(love da' digi cam ). Good luck!

[joey b]

I don't know these camber and what they mean pos and neg and blah blah. Anyway, when I did the struts on my old car I didn't compress the spring between the strut and the monoleaf and the back tires had an extreme V to them. That spring needs to be fully compressed (if it is the figure 8 one). But yes, there is a bolt that can be adjusted. I was told that if the rear wheels aren't straight then they bend the frame. True?