Poly-U dogbone bushings

[Robby1870]

I finally got around to drilling out my dogbones today for the poly bushings Ive had for 5 months :? I have only done half of each dogbone, the bushing that attaches to the motor, so far. I had heard from Paul that with all Poly there was a lot of vibration, so I did half for now. With half of each done, I noticed NO vibration, and the engine barely moves when shifting or starting. The 1-2 shift at WOT is so much crisper now, and I spun the tires from a roll through a stop sign (first for the GP). I think Im gonna go ahead and do the the frame side of the dogbones in poly tomorrow or sometime soon. Its definitely a long task, took about 30 minutes to drill two out with a bi-metal hole saw and a drill press. Hell I could do some for y'all if you sent me money an dogbones......just a thought. I'll reply here when I get the other end done in poly

[SigEpCutlass]

so lemme get this straight cause i'm confused. Did you take out the rubber gaskets at either end of the dogbone and replace it with a poly bushing? Or am I totally wrong? lol Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm only somewhat mechanically inclined 8)

[Robby1870]

Yeah, thats what I did, only right now, there is only Poly on the motor side of the dogbone. My old bushings on the motor side, basically fell apart when I took the dogbone out. The other end still has good rubber bushings though

[LuminaPerformance]

i got a quick question also, im going to be ordering the poly dogbones from ffp, i know to order the dogbones on top but do they have ones for the motor mounts? and where do you order the bushings?

[SigEpCutlass]

yea i had a problem with my dogbones this past summer. damn screaching metal on metal noise. turned out it was the rubber bushings on 'em were shot. the people i chatted with at the old gmforums were nice enough to help me out with that, since I said i wasn't all that mechanical. I just replaced the OEM onces with ones from napa $18 each instead of $45 each from GM. I wanted to buy aftermarket ones, but they're too expensive. I can't afford them. This is mainly because all four of my rotors are about dead so i've gotta buy new higher performance rotors soon. My Nana didn't wash underneath the car with all the salt for the 8 yrs she had her, so the rear brakes are rusty as hell. I need an entirely new brake setup in the rear including calipers. Plus, it'd be nice to have a dual exhaust. vrrooom sorry for the rant...

[Whiskey River]

Robby

 

I did that mod with the Aluminum Dog-bone mounts i had on my 1992 Cutlass and they vibrate like hell..............

 

at idle it shakes the car through the whole frame...............

 

I hope you have better luck

 

i dunno how im going to eliminate the shaking with out buying Stock new ones with the conventional rubber bushings

 

 

Dave

 

I couldn't agree more with the vibration. You can certainly tell just how smooth your engine runs after putting the poly bushings in. I put poly bushings in my torque struts, both ends, and was amazed at how much engine noise I now have in the cabin of the car. It sounds good when getting on the gas and at speed but when idling, it'll rattle your teeth loose. They did soften up some after a few days or maybe I got used to the noise and vibration. At any rate, they won't wear out. That's what I like.

[90TGP]

I have the FFP mounts with polyurethane bushings on both sides. It vibrated like no other through the steering wheel for the first couple of days when I first had them in. After a while, the vibration went away.

[joey b]

The poly bushings resist shaking more so the normal rubber bushings are gonna be trashed in no time because they will have to absorb twice the vibrations.

[Robby1870]

I got the other end done last night, and have driven it a decent amount since. The only time it vibrates a lot is at idle in gear, when the car is warmed up, when its around 650rpm. Any rpm in gear above 650 isnt that bad at all, and once I hit the gas, no vibration. I think I might bump the idle up a few rpms if in the next couple of days the vibrations dont get better. I can definitely hear the motor in the car a lot more. I can also turn up my adj. vacuum modulator now. All in all, Im pleased, minus the idle vibrations, shifts are much firmer now at WOT, especially the 1-2.

[Whiskey River]

I can also turn up my adj. vacuum modulator now. All in all, Im pleased, minus the idle vibrations, shifts are much firmer now at WOT, especially the 1-2.

 

On the subject of the adj. vacuum modulator, I bought one back a few months ago and didn't adjust it as I needed to get the old one replaced. Which way do I turn that set screw to firm up the shifts?

[Robby1870]

I can also turn up my adj. vacuum modulator now. All in all, Im pleased, minus the idle vibrations, shifts are much firmer now at WOT, especially the 1-2.

 

On the subject of the adj. vacuum modulator, I bought one back a few months ago and didn't adjust it as I needed to get the old one replaced. Which way do I turn that set screw to firm up the shifts?

 

Turn the screw in or clockwise to firm them up. When I first installed mine, I turned it 2.25 or 2.5 turns in to get them pretty firm.

 

I just bumped my idle up to 750rpm in gear and like 850-900rpm in neutral. I think I may do a idle re-learn since I did this. At 750 the vibrations are 20x better. Just a thought for all you guys that have done the poly bushings.